The Business of Fashion Podcast

In a captivating discussion, Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci and Valentino, shares insights into his artistic journey. He reflects on the legacy of Valentino Garavani, stating, "There is always Valentino somewhere with me." Michele emphasizes the importance of staying true to oneself, viewing success as embracing personal authenticity rather than traditional metrics. He explores the deep connections between nostalgia, creative freedom, and the transformative power of fashion, inspiring aspiring designers to cherish their unique paths.

Brian Baskin, a fashion critic known for his insights into the evolution of menswear, joins correspondents Malique Morris and Lei Takanashi to dissect the current state of style for men. They scrutinize the 'starter pack' syndrome, where brands opt for safe, interchangeable looks that prioritize approachability over creativity. The discussion touches on how brands, like Aimé Leon Dore, have inadvertently stifled individuality in fashion, leading to a fascinating exploration of storytelling as the key to brand distinction in a sea of sameness.

Skepta, a famed grime MC and founder of the fashion brand Mains, discusses his journey through the fashion world. He emphasizes that success is not instant and underscores the value of learning through failure. Skepta reveals how his love for fashion was sparked by the vibrant style of garage music culture and the challenges he faced while launching Mains. He champions the idea of embracing an outsider's perspective in the industry and highlights perseverance and individuality as key to creative freedom in fashion.

Luxury fashion's leadership often resembles an exclusive club, where diversity struggles to gain a foothold. Conversations highlight how unexamined biases shape perceptions of design talent. Consumer demand for diverse representation is growing, pushing brands to rethink traditional norms. Creative roles remain dominated by familiar networks, but initiatives are emerging to provide educational access for underrepresented communities. There’s a call for a shift towards inclusivity, ensuring that women and diverse talents are given fair opportunities.

Clare Waight Keller, a versatile designer known for her roles at prestigious fashion houses like Givenchy and Gucci, shares insights from her eclectic career. She discusses how embracing discomfort has driven her creativity and led her to unexpected roles. Clare reflects on her early influences in Birmingham and her innovative knitwear education, navigating the competitive 90s fashion landscape. She dives into her new role at Uniqlo, focusing on blending femininity into its offerings and the importance of representation for young women in the industry.

Shein is revolutionizing the fast fashion landscape, challenging former leaders like H&M with its ultra-low prices and rapid production. H&M is now striving to find its identity, aiming for a sweet spot between budget brands and higher-quality options. The discussion highlights the environmental impact of Shein's explosive growth and H&M's efforts to embrace sustainability amid fierce competition. Insights into how fast fashion disruptors navigate market saturation and consumer demands provide a glimpse into the ever-evolving fashion industry.

Lyas, a compelling fashion communicator known for his incisive insights, discusses the vital role of storytelling in fashion. He reflects on the loss of creativity in the industry and the disposability of designers today. Through personal experiences, Lyas shares how his queer Arab French identity informs his humor and emotional narratives. He emphasizes the need for inclusivity in fashion storytelling and critiques the struggles of emerging brands, advocating for authenticity and individuality in a rapidly changing landscape.

Nike faces its toughest challenges yet, battling fierce competition and internal issues. Leadership changes and a mismanaged direct-to-consumer approach have tarnished its once-dominant status. Over-reliance on classic sneaker lines like the Air Force 1 is causing consumer fatigue. Meanwhile, rivals like Hoka and Adidas are rapidly gaining ground. The discussion dives into Nike's struggle to innovate and reconnect with its audience. Despite the turmoil, there's a glimmer of hope for a brand revival through new strategies and bold leadership shifts.

As the first female, Black, and South Asian Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris’s every move is closely watched — from her policy decisions to her wardrobe. With Harris now leading the Democratic ticket in the 2024 presidential election, her style and beauty choices — from her for her sleek silk press hairstyle to her endless variety of pantsuits — have sparked renewed discussion. “She is communicating something, even if it's not remarkable,” said BoF senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young. “No one truly opts out of signalling something with how they present themselves.”This week on The Debrief, BoF executive editor Brian Baskin sat down with Butler-Young and editorial apprentice Yola Mzizi to explore how Harris’s beauty and fashion choices are being interpreted by different audiences across the political spectrum, and what that means for the future of political style. Key Insights:Harris’s signature silk-pressed hairstyle has deep roots. “It's a centuries old way of straightening hair, and it's been around for generations upon generations. Most people associate it with just the hair that they have to have for Easter Sunday, or the style that the grandmothers would have,” Mzizi explains. Despite the history, Black Gen-Z voters have embraced the style, calling it the presidential silk press. “It's a way to support her candidacy in a fun way,” said Mzizi. Harris’ wardrobe choices are being closely scrutinised, which has led her to more streamlined, straightforward ensembles. “The pantsuits, specifically the colour schemes — black, grey, navy blue, or just blues, with an occasional pastel, a pump as the shoe, or occasional Converse and pearls — are very much in line with how politicians dress,” said Butler-Young. Meanwhile, male politicians, like Harris’s vice-presidential nominee, Minnesota Governor Tim Walz, have more freedom to experiment. “You look at her running mate Tim Walz, and his ability to sort of play around with style with those well-worn red wing boots, the camouflage hats, rather than being distracting, they actually endear some voters to him. … Kamala, for all intents and purposes, doesn't seem to have the licence to do that.” The 2024 election has highlighted the growing role of fashion and beauty in politics. Black-owned beauty brand BLK/OPL was centre stage at the DNC providing makeup services as the event’s first beauty sponsor. “Harris's candidacy is opening up new avenues for different kinds of brands to have their say in this larger conversation,” Mzizi notes.Should Harris win the presidency, she could use her platform to further influence the intersection of fashion and politics. Harris has already hinted at this with her past choices by wearing Black designers like Christopher John Rogers and Sergio Hudson. “She'll have more leeway to [support minority designers] when she's empowered. Right now, I think she's constrained … by this idea of having to cater to this broad, collective public palette.”Additional resourcesHow Kamala Harris’ Signature Tresses Became a Gen-Z Hit | BoF Why Kamala Harris Isn’t Making Bold Fashion Choices – Yet | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

2024 is witnessing the rise of 'Sephora tweens', young consumers from Gen Alpha diving into beauty at unprecedented ages. Social media, especially TikTok, is shaping their beauty habits, promoting skincare over traditional makeup. Brands are rapidly adapting to this trend with tailored marketing strategies, focusing on relatable messaging and vibrant packaging. However, the conversation also addresses the risks associated with exposing tweens to unsuitable products, emphasizing the need for education and ethical marketing.