Coach Justen Sjong: Perfection is NOT the Goal, Mental Tactics, Tapping into Breath, and Climbing Performance Hacks

Apr 10, 2024

Climbing coach Justen Sjong discusses two types of climbers, tapping into breath for performance, and the hidden superpower of syncing with your belayer. Perfection isn't the goal, and the importance of identifying technical vs. mental strengths is highlighted. Justen shares insights on handling fear, using a rowing machine as a performance hack, preparing fingers for small holds, and the difference between visualizing and rehearsing.

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Introduction

00:00 • 4min

Personal Climbing Journey and Transition from Trad to Sport Climbing

04:01 • 2min

Balancing Challenges and Achievements in Climbing

06:11 • 27min

Navigating Mental and Emotional Challenges in Climbing

32:54 • 10min

Climbing Rope Sponsorship and Visual Techniques Discussion

43:08 • 4min

Mental Tactics in Climbing Performance

46:39 • 8min

Priming the Body with Rowing for Climbing Performance

54:31 • 14min

Reflective Climbing Performance Discussion with a Thoughtful Guest

01:08:40 • 4min

Climbing Coach Justen Sjong joins to discuss:

Two types of climbers (engineer and artist)
Tapping into breath as our engine
The hidden superpower of being in sync with your belayer
Identifying Technical vs Mental strengths / weaknesses
Perfection is NOT the goal (but what is?)
What our bodies do on the wall when we become scared to try
How a rowing machine can become a performance hack
A trick to preparing fingers to handle the pain of small holds
The difference between visualizing and rehearsing

Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!):

patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Connect with Justen for coaching at www.climbing-sensei.com

Check out Justen's coaching videos: www.instagram.com/justensjong

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

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And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @justensjong

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!