Coach Justen Sjong: Perfection is NOT the Goal, Mental Tactics, Tapping into Breath, and Climbing Performance Hacks
Apr 10, 2024
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Climbing coach Justen Sjong discusses two types of climbers, tapping into breath for performance, and the hidden superpower of syncing with your belayer. Perfection isn't the goal, and the importance of identifying technical vs. mental strengths is highlighted. Justen shares insights on handling fear, using a rowing machine as a performance hack, preparing fingers for small holds, and the difference between visualizing and rehearsing.
Embracing imperfections leads to exceptional performance, emphasizing the concept of being 'weight wetter than perfect'.
Coaching focuses on understanding climbers' mental strengths and weaknesses, highlighting emotional balance and breath utilization for optimal performance.
Preparing for imperfections and strategizing bounce-backs, instead of pursuing perfection, enhances climbing experiences and builds confidence.
Deep dives
The Importance of Embracing Imperfections
Embracing mistakes and flaws is highlighted as a key component of success, where bouncing back from screw-ups is viewed as an exceptional performance. The concept of being 'weight wetter than perfect' is introduced, emphasizing that perfection can be mundane. Imperfections are portrayed positively, making a great performance by overcoming setbacks.
Exploring Climbing Mindset with Justin Zhang
Justin Zhang's extensive coaching experience and climbing achievements are discussed, focusing on his holistic approach to climbing development beyond traditional coaching methods. The podcast delves into the two types of climbers identified by Zhang, the engineer and the artist, and explores techniques to support climbers in managing fears, mental barriers, anxieties, and strengths. Varieties of climbing techniques, mental approaches, and lessons from experiences on El Capitan are shared.
Enhancing Climbing Performance through Mental Focus
The role of mental strength in climbing performance is underscored, with an emphasis on understanding climbers' strengths and weaknesses. Coaching strategies involve identifying climbers' technical and mental strengths, emphasizing the importance of maintaining emotional balance and correct body positioning during climbs. The podcast highlights the significance of thinking and breathing simultaneously, utilizing breath as a tool to stay present and connected to one's climbing senses for optimal performance.
Importance of Rehearsing Climbing Scenarios
Preparation and visualization are crucial in climbing scenarios. It's not about aiming for perfection but anticipating imperfections and having a strategy to bounce back when things do not go as planned. Mimicking moves rather than just visualizing them allows the body to take in the information, ensuring that the conscious brain goes into the background while climbing.
Overcoming Barriers and Reestablishing Climbing Confidence
Reestablishing climbing confidence after a setback is key for climbers at all levels. A coach's role includes creating scenarios where athletes lose their mojo and guiding them in identifying and addressing these moments effectively. Allowing for imperfections and understanding that mistakes are opportunities for growth can lead to a stronger performance than aiming for perfection.
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
Rungne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
MAXIM: The best ropes in the game! Ultra-light, ultra-reliable, and ultra-durable. Check out the Airliner (my favorite) and all their ropes at your local gear shop and on the MAXIM site.
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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