The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Jan 20, 2025

Stian Christophersen, a physiotherapist and world-class climber, returns to share his expertise on climbing injuries and training. He reveals why only two intense climbing days a week yield better results and introduces the Japanese technique for skill development. The conversation dives into effective methods for pulley rehab and the role of optimism in recovery. Additionally, Stian discusses the importance of load management and personalized training, encouraging climbers to prioritize quality sessions over sheer quantity for better performance.

02:23:22

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Episode guests

Stian Christophersen

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Episode notes

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Quick takeaways

Stian Christophersen advocates for two days of hard climbing per week to enhance strength while minimizing injury risk.

Effective load management is essential for climbers, requiring careful monitoring of training intensity and recovery to prevent injuries.

Early loading of injured fingers, under pain tolerance guidelines, can accelerate recovery, highlighting the importance of structured rehabilitation.

A positive mindset during recovery encourages climbers to embrace challenges and explore different climbing techniques, contributing to resilience.

Deep dives

Introduction to Stian Christofferson

Stian Christofferson is an experienced physiotherapist, climbing coach, and a world-class climber, having achieved notable grades in sport climbing and bouldering. His expertise is complemented by his previous works, including his book 'The Climbing Bible.' In this discussion, he provides insights on managing and preventing climbing injuries, emphasizing that even elite climbers can face challenges as they age or after having children. The conversation explores practical strategies for climbers to balance their training intensity while minimizing injury risk.

Intro

2min

Climbing Back to Focus

19min

Balancing Climbing Intensity and Recovery

19min

Innovative Climbing Nutrition and Injury Prevention Strategies

6min

Optimizing Climbing Training and Recovery

31min

Innovative Climbing Gear: MadRock Shoes and Revival Walls

4min

Navigating Pulley Injuries: Rehabilitation Strategies and Climber Experiences

5min

Rehabilitation Strategies for A2 Pulley Injuries

16min

Rehabilitating Climber's Pulley Injuries

21min

10.

Strengthening Skills for Climbing Recovery

5min

11.

Navigating Growth in Climbing

11min

12.

Embracing Individual Progress in Climbing and Youth Sports

2min

13.

Exploring 'The Climbing Bible' Series and Injury Management

3min

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more.

Buy Stian's Book:

adventurebooks.com/collections/climbing-books-guidebooks/products/the-climbing-bible-managing-injuries

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard.

Tindeq:

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-christophersen-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:09) – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious

(00:07:40) – Practicing board climbing

(00:11:55) – Outline of topics

(00:15:18) – Most common climbing injuries

(00:18:13) – Rules for preventing injuries

(00:20:39) – How much hard climbing is reasonable

(00:29:13) – Lifting weights

(00:31:04) – The Japanese approach

(00:43:43) – Finger training to prevent finger injuries

(00:52:05) – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols?

(00:56:01) – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries

(00:59:25) – When to do extra strength training

(01:01:47) – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity

(01:06:45) – Regaining confidence after injury

(01:09:45) – Optimism & discovery

(01:20:42) – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries?

(01:25:52) – How to rehab pulley injuries

(01:35:14) – Loading & adapting from within

(01:43:50) – The good news with pulley injuries

(01:45:59) – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries?

(01:48:20) – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury

(01:51:20) – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing

(01:53:59) – Preparing for tweaky holds

(02:01:08) – Individual finger training

(02:05:57) – Training for hard shoulder moves

(02:07:20) – Growth plate injuries

(02:10:58) – Injections for finger pain

(02:13:20) – Mindset tips

(02:16:06) – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent

(02:20:49) – Where to buy Stian’s new book

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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Episode guests

Podcast summary created with Snipd AI

Quick takeaways

Deep dives

Introduction to Stian Christofferson

Injury Prevention and Management

Understanding Pulley Injuries

Importance of Early Loading

Role of Mindset in Recovery

Structural Exercises for Tendon Strength

Building Confidence After Injury

Youth Climbers and Growth Plate Injuries

Get the Snipd
podcast app

AI-powered
podcast player

Discover
highlights

Save any
moment

Share
& Export

AI-powered
podcast player

Discover
highlights

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Episode guests

Podcast summary created with Snipd AI

Quick takeaways

Deep dives

Introduction to Stian Christofferson

Injury Prevention and Management

Understanding Pulley Injuries

Importance of Early Loading

Role of Mindset in Recovery

Structural Exercises for Tendon Strength

Building Confidence After Injury

Youth Climbers and Growth Plate Injuries

Get the Snipdpodcast app

AI-poweredpodcast player

Discoverhighlights

Save anymoment

Share& Export

AI-poweredpodcast player

Discoverhighlights

Get the Snipd
podcast app

AI-powered
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highlights

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moment

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highlights