The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalieNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:03) – Keith’s background(00:10:05) – Natalie’s background(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study(00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies(00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness(00:57:00) – Recommendations(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?(01:15:42) – Summary(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies(01:19:25) – Wrap up

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out?Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodinNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment(00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing)(00:20:07) – High-Low training(00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity(The following topics are available for Patrons only)(00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice(00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments(00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up(00:44:35) – Building your own board(00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall(00:52:05) – Climbing shoes(00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment(01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment(01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss(01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging(01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights(01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro(01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sacred Rok, getting kids to enjoy healthy food, farm-to-school, and more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Donate to Sacred Rok:Directly 👉 sacredrok.orgVia The Nugget 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:14) – Chickens(00:06:18) – El Salto(00:07:36) – Outline of topics(00:11:27) – Katie’s climbing these days(00:18:38) – Getting more value from climbing trips(00:30:05) – How to continue progressing(00:33:55) – Training & cold plunge routine(00:42:17) – Perimenopause & menopause(00:52:28) – 40:30:30 & nutrition tips for climbers(01:05:35) – Katie’s thoughts on keto & carnivore(01:13:57) – Ingredients to avoid(01:21:58) – Starting Sacred Rok with Ron Kauk(01:35:28) – Getting kids to eat healthy food(01:39:07) – Farm to school(01:47:19) – Affordable nutrition(01:54:36) – Katie’s go-to carb sources(01:59:46) – Saturated fat, dairy, & best fats for cooking(02:02:10) – Seed oils(02:04:54) – Rapid fire questions(02:12:59) – Cathy Wagner’s scorecard(02:15:18) – Wrap up

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget-club👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniroNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers(00:30:08) – The Needles(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time(00:49:59) – The Winnebago(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch(01:05:11) – City of Rocks(01:10:24) – Drawing the line(01:16:12) – Old school bolting(01:24:40) – Riggins(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days(01:43:13) – Listen to your body(01:46:17) – Respect your body(01:47:50) – What excites Tony

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget-club👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondraNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’(00:05:13) – Rock Stars(00:07:26) – Adam as a kid(00:15:14) – Unfinished business(00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects(00:23:50) – Untapped potential(00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As(00:31:17) – The Imhotep project(00:39:55) – Training for long boulders(00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing(00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado(00:48:40) – Patxi training(00:51:07) – Modern comp routes(00:54:29) – Feelings about comps(00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps(01:05:41) – The Olympics(01:07:40) – Speed climbing(01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall(01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics(01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock(01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career(01:32:50) – The monster within(01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes(01:38:50) – 8a at 80(01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale(01:41:59) – Finger size(01:45:09) – Hugo(01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things(01:48:15) – What’s next(01:49:21) – Wrap up

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for 10% off your order.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didierNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island(00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching(00:06:30) – The Air Force(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing(00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training(00:35:20) – India(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids(00:53:54) – Sofia(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing(01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout(01:26:36) – Example training week(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late(02:05:28) – How to find your passion(02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project(02:22:37) – Future plans(02:24:02) – Favorite training music(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations(02:35:59) – Photography(02:38:04) – Patagonia(02:38:54) – Follow your dream

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris’ latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest’ 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ronNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:01) – Fish sticks(00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other(00:15:08) – Threads & identity(00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules(00:31:15) – Follow your heart(00:43:32) – Vision Quest(00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing(01:01:02) – The essence(01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force(01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering(01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers(01:30:39) – Flow & precision(01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line(01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom(01:46:31) – Le Blonde(01:48:19) – Motivation(01:54:04) – A good feeling(01:56:24) – Mother Earth(01:57:37) – A personal path(01:58:49) – Wrap up

Caroline Ciavaldini, a French professional climber known for her honesty and adventurous spirit, discusses her journey from competition to outdoor climbing. She shares her experiences growing up in La Réunion, tackling personal loss, and facing the challenges of eating disorders. The conversation dives into gentle feminism, parenting complexities, and the emotional balancing act of competition versus personal growth. Caroline emphasizes the importance of discussing emotions and the empowerment of women in climbing, ultimately focusing on adventure and self-discovery.

Randy Leavitt, a prolific route developer and accomplished climber, shares his adventures in creating over 1000 new routes. He discusses the thrill of bolting Jumbo Love and his innovative offwidth techniques. The conversation transitions to his passion for surfing, emphasizing how the best surf days can rival climbing experiences. Randy reflects on aging gracefully, navigating life choices, and the connection between climbing and flying, showcasing a life rich in adventure and introspection.

Dave MacLeod, an experienced climber known for his diverse expertise, shares insights on pivotal mindset shifts that transformed his climbing journey. He delves into the debate around finger training protocols and the balance between pushing limits and ensuring longevity in the sport. MacLeod explores the connection between environmentalism and meat consumption, advocating for a pro-environmental carnivore lifestyle. He also discusses the importance of reconciling conflicting scientific advice in nutrition and training, emphasizing personal growth through diverse perspectives.