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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Latest episodes

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Mar 10, 2025 • 1h 52min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget-club👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondraNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’(00:05:13) – Rock Stars(00:07:26) – Adam as a kid(00:15:14) – Unfinished business(00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects(00:23:50) – Untapped potential(00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As(00:31:17) – The Imhotep project(00:39:55) – Training for long boulders(00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing(00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado(00:48:40) – Patxi training(00:51:07) – Modern comp routes(00:54:29) – Feelings about comps(00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps(01:05:41) – The Olympics(01:07:40) – Speed climbing(01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall(01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics(01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock(01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career(01:32:50) – The monster within(01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes(01:38:50) – 8a at 80(01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale(01:41:59) – Finger size(01:45:09) – Hugo(01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things(01:48:15) – What’s next(01:49:21) – Wrap up
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Mar 3, 2025 • 2h 41min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for 10% off your order.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didierNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island(00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching(00:06:30) – The Air Force(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing(00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training(00:35:20) – India(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids(00:53:54) – Sofia(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing(01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout(01:26:36) – Example training week(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late(02:05:28) – How to find your passion(02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project(02:22:37) – Future plans(02:24:02) – Favorite training music(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations(02:35:59) – Photography(02:38:04) – Patagonia(02:38:54) – Follow your dream
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Feb 24, 2025 • 2h

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris’ latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest’ 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ronNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:01) – Fish sticks(00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other(00:15:08) – Threads & identity(00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules(00:31:15) – Follow your heart(00:43:32) – Vision Quest(00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing(01:01:02) – The essence(01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force(01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering(01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers(01:30:39) – Flow & precision(01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line(01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom(01:46:31) – Le Blonde(01:48:19) – Motivation(01:54:04) – A good feeling(01:56:24) – Mother Earth(01:57:37) – A personal path(01:58:49) – Wrap up
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Feb 17, 2025 • 2h 30min

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

Caroline Ciavaldini, a French professional climber known for her honesty and adventurous spirit, discusses her journey from competition to outdoor climbing. She shares her experiences growing up in La Réunion, tackling personal loss, and facing the challenges of eating disorders. The conversation dives into gentle feminism, parenting complexities, and the emotional balancing act of competition versus personal growth. Caroline emphasizes the importance of discussing emotions and the empowerment of women in climbing, ultimately focusing on adventure and self-discovery.
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Feb 10, 2025 • 2h 2min

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt, a prolific route developer and accomplished climber, shares his adventures in creating over 1000 new routes. He discusses the thrill of bolting Jumbo Love and his innovative offwidth techniques. The conversation transitions to his passion for surfing, emphasizing how the best surf days can rival climbing experiences. Randy reflects on aging gracefully, navigating life choices, and the connection between climbing and flying, showcasing a life rich in adventure and introspection.
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Feb 5, 2025 • 39min

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Dave MacLeod, an experienced climber known for his diverse expertise, shares insights on pivotal mindset shifts that transformed his climbing journey. He delves into the debate around finger training protocols and the balance between pushing limits and ensuring longevity in the sport. MacLeod explores the connection between environmentalism and meat consumption, advocating for a pro-environmental carnivore lifestyle. He also discusses the importance of reconciling conflicting scientific advice in nutrition and training, emphasizing personal growth through diverse perspectives.
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Feb 3, 2025 • 1h 46min

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.How You Can Help:https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherdNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues(00:18:36) – Formative experiences(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles(01:20:00) – How we can help(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up
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Jan 27, 2025 • 3h 8min

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

Sol Wertkin, a former rock climber, cancer survivor, and nurse, shares his inspiring journey through adversity. He discusses his cancer diagnosis and recovery, emphasizing resilience and the importance of community support. Sol reflects on how e-biking revitalized his love for the outdoors post-climbing. He also nostalgically recounts the 'Golden Era' of climbing in Leavenworth and the impact of his late friend Johnny Goicoechea on his life. With insights on balancing health, family, and personal passion, Sol offers valuable nuggets for navigating life's challenges.
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Jan 20, 2025 • 2h 23min

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Stian Christophersen, a physiotherapist and world-class climber, returns to share his expertise on climbing injuries and training. He reveals why only two intense climbing days a week yield better results and introduces the Japanese technique for skill development. The conversation dives into effective methods for pulley rehab and the role of optimism in recovery. Additionally, Stian discusses the importance of load management and personalized training, encouraging climbers to prioritize quality sessions over sheer quantity for better performance.
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Jan 13, 2025 • 3h 55min

EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

Dave MacLeod, one of the world’s top climbers and author of "Moving the Needle," shares insights on enhancing climbing performance after 40. He emphasizes the critical role of curiosity and consistency in personal growth. MacLeod discusses dietary impacts on mood, including ketogenic and carnivore diets, while challenging traditional views on LDL cholesterol. He also highlights the importance of balancing passion and productivity, the benefits of daydreaming, and the significance of lifestyle adjustments for climbers at any age.

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