The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast.You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts or Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Dr. Frank Zelko, an environmental historian and professor at the University of Hawaii, delves into the controversial topic of fluoride in drinking water. He investigates its historical roots and current debates on safety and dental health. The conversation explores fluoride's efficacy against cavities while addressing potential health risks, particularly to children. Zelko also highlights the contrasting low cavity rates in communities without fluoride, urging listeners to reconsider water filtration systems and informed choices for better health.

In this solo episode, I share a few thoughts on my episode with Kaizen Asiedu. I also talk about where I get my news, the state of legacy media, and plans for my new podcast, "Something Different".

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and website. We talked about his life before the road, the vehicles he’s lived in, the best budget options he’s found, essentials for $100 or less, heating systems, bathroom options, cooking tips, and much more.GSI Outdoors:Camp StovesGoSun:Solar CoolersOutdoorsy:Rent a Van or RV for your next adventure!Ignik:Sustainable Campfire Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bob-wellsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:39) – Bob’s background (00:04:36) – Life before the road(00:05:38) – Bob’s shed(00:09:39) – Big city vanlife  (00:15:38) – Full time vanlife(00:17:39) – First van(00:21:37) – Emergency bucket  (00:23:41) – City-specific van tips (00:29:40) – Progression of vehicles  (00:34:40) – Freedom on the road(00:38:40) – Most impressive setup(00:40:41) – Clever and unique setup(00:44:52) – Bang for your buck(00:47:57) – Avoiding burnout (00:51:52) – Dogs(00:55:56) – Bob’s future(00:58:57) – Practical advice for road life  (01:05:53) – $100 or less essentials (01:07:54) – Heating systems (01:10:55) – Van or truck tent canopy (01:15:45) – Longest trip in one week(01:17:43) – Beauty of Moab (01:19:43) – Where to find Bob

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallumNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber(00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º)(00:19:10) – Board tactics(00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards?(00:26:14) – Getting outside(00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions(00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up(00:34:07) – A typical week(00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics(00:40:42) – 2 months on(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?(00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses(00:57:19) – The Spray layout(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes(01:11:36) – Working & setting(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside(01:31:57) – New board companies(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature(01:38:59) – Dream lines(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and  Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.beThe NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugTindeq 👉 tindeq.com  (Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order)The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.comBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tess-driessensNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – The North Pole(00:16:14) – Gymnastics & childhood(00:22:38) – Early climbing(00:24:32) – 5 herniated discs(00:41:16) – Developing chronic pain(00:46:57) – Pain drugs & alternatives(00:52:39) – Hope, expectations, & acceptance(00:57:24) – A healing sabatical(01:05:01) – A healing sabatical continued(01:10:20) – Meditation(01:12:38) – Alexander Technique & Feldenkrais Method(01:18:37) – Tools for chronic pain(01:27:39) – Happiness within(01:33:55) – Meditation continued(01:38:45) – Love(01:42:34) – Tess’ three sentences(01:48:52) – Long covid(01:58:20) – Sending 8a without physical training(02:02:53) – Visualization(02:09:24) – Low-load training(02:11:06) – Adaptability & taking control(02:12:41) – Recovery tips(02:17:55) – Investing in relaxation(02:19:55) – Heart coherence breathing(02:26:10) – Quotes & gratitude(02:30:31) – Closing questions

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalieNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:03) – Keith’s background(00:10:05) – Natalie’s background(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study(00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies(00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness(00:57:00) – Recommendations(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?(01:15:42) – Summary(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies(01:19:25) – Wrap up

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out?Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodinNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment(00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing)(00:20:07) – High-Low training(00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity(The following topics are available for Patrons only)(00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice(00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments(00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up(00:44:35) – Building your own board(00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall(00:52:05) – Climbing shoes(00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment(01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment(01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss(01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging(01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights(01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro(01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sacred Rok, getting kids to enjoy healthy food, farm-to-school, and more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Donate to Sacred Rok:Directly 👉 sacredrok.orgVia The Nugget 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:14) – Chickens(00:06:18) – El Salto(00:07:36) – Outline of topics(00:11:27) – Katie’s climbing these days(00:18:38) – Getting more value from climbing trips(00:30:05) – How to continue progressing(00:33:55) – Training & cold plunge routine(00:42:17) – Perimenopause & menopause(00:52:28) – 40:30:30 & nutrition tips for climbers(01:05:35) – Katie’s thoughts on keto & carnivore(01:13:57) – Ingredients to avoid(01:21:58) – Starting Sacred Rok with Ron Kauk(01:35:28) – Getting kids to eat healthy food(01:39:07) – Farm to school(01:47:19) – Affordable nutrition(01:54:36) – Katie’s go-to carb sources(01:59:46) – Saturated fat, dairy, & best fats for cooking(02:02:10) – Seed oils(02:04:54) – Rapid fire questions(02:12:59) – Cathy Wagner’s scorecard(02:15:18) – Wrap up

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget-club👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniroNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers(00:30:08) – The Needles(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time(00:49:59) – The Winnebago(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch(01:05:11) – City of Rocks(01:10:24) – Drawing the line(01:16:12) – Old school bolting(01:24:40) – Riggins(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days(01:43:13) – Listen to your body(01:46:17) – Respect your body(01:47:50) – What excites Tony