The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Dave MacLeod, an experienced climber known for his diverse expertise, shares insights on pivotal mindset shifts that transformed his climbing journey. He delves into the debate around finger training protocols and the balance between pushing limits and ensuring longevity in the sport. MacLeod explores the connection between environmentalism and meat consumption, advocating for a pro-environmental carnivore lifestyle. He also discusses the importance of reconciling conflicting scientific advice in nutrition and training, emphasizing personal growth through diverse perspectives.

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.How You Can Help:https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherdNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues(00:18:36) – Formative experiences(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles(01:20:00) – How we can help(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up

Sol Wertkin, a former rock climber, cancer survivor, and nurse, shares his inspiring journey through adversity. He discusses his cancer diagnosis and recovery, emphasizing resilience and the importance of community support. Sol reflects on how e-biking revitalized his love for the outdoors post-climbing. He also nostalgically recounts the 'Golden Era' of climbing in Leavenworth and the impact of his late friend Johnny Goicoechea on his life. With insights on balancing health, family, and personal passion, Sol offers valuable nuggets for navigating life's challenges.

Stian Christophersen, a physiotherapist and world-class climber, returns to share his expertise on climbing injuries and training. He reveals why only two intense climbing days a week yield better results and introduces the Japanese technique for skill development. The conversation dives into effective methods for pulley rehab and the role of optimism in recovery. Additionally, Stian discusses the importance of load management and personalized training, encouraging climbers to prioritize quality sessions over sheer quantity for better performance.

Dave MacLeod, one of the world’s top climbers and author of "Moving the Needle," shares insights on enhancing climbing performance after 40. He emphasizes the critical role of curiosity and consistency in personal growth. MacLeod discusses dietary impacts on mood, including ketogenic and carnivore diets, while challenging traditional views on LDL cholesterol. He also highlights the importance of balancing passion and productivity, the benefits of daydreaming, and the significance of lifestyle adjustments for climbers at any age.

This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/best-of-2024Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:05) – EP 200: Brook Rabouotou (Patreon EXTRA)(00:14:29) – EP 201: James Pearson(00:32:30) – EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns(00:43:58) – EP 214: Neely Quinn Returns(00:50:30) – EP 216: Maddy Cope(00:54:30) – EP 221: Keenan Takahashi (Patreon EXTRA)(01:02:20) – EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns(01:19:24) – EP 229: Shauna Coxsey(01:26:26) – EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest(01:35:08) – EP 240: Alex Megos(01:45:18) – EP 242: Molly Beard(01:53:02) – EP 249: Chris Sharma (Patreon EXTRA)(02:01:32) – EP 250: Beth Rodden(02:12:12) – EP 252: Justin Salas

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addiction, finding climbing, her Instagram career, health issues and adrenal fatigue, her experiment with the carnivore diet, responsible meat eating, chocolate cake, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/april-davidsonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:22) – Living with a blind man(00:07:33) – Why they quit vanlife(00:10:04) – Building out their van(00:21:02) – Settling in Vegas(00:23:44) – April’s relationship with climbing(00:26:18) – Growing up & moving a lot(00:31:44) – Moving to LA(00:33:40) – 30s(00:40:00) – Loss & addiction(00:49:06) – An abusive relationship(00:52:01) – Finding climbing(00:54:34) – Breaking free(00:58:56) – Dissociation & wasted time(01:02:13) – Support & accountability(01:05:21) – Her Instagram career(01:12:57) – Photography & video(01:16:15) – Going with the flow(01:17:57) – Weddings & elopements(01:21:10) – Health issues & adrenal fatigue(01:28:56) – The carnivore diet(01:35:25) – Getting strong(01:40:00) – Gut health & her current diet(01:43:52) – Vegan & vegetarian diets(01:50:52) – Responsible meat eating(01:55:08) – Quitting caffeine(01:56:37) – Food tracking(01:59:39) – Cake(02:00:28) – Rapid fire questions(02:04:18) – Narrating life to Justin(02:07:30) – Ultimate trust(02:08:34) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salasNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries(00:05:26) – Vanlife(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience(00:15:35) – An invisible disability(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”(00:27:55) – Faces(00:30:45) – Losing his vision(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms(00:48:36) – Assistive technology(00:54:34) – How he climbs(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing(01:10:59) – Sight guides(01:22:34) – Footholds(01:25:29) – Stamina training(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics(01:33:14) – Getting inspired(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em(01:37:32) – Assessing landings(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching(01:45:04) – Toothpaste(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes(01:51:42) – Asking for help(01:57:54) – April(02:05:47) – Building out a van(02:10:09) – Vegas(02:12:56) – Nature is healing(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions(02:39:39) – Blind visualization(02:46:48) – Building a mental map(02:50:11) – Changemaker(02:54:40) – Faith(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Green Chef:greenchef.com/NUGGET50Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jeromeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:12) – Hit & run(00:04:42) – The recovery process(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project(00:13:23) – A really fun game(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude(01:37:45) – More about The New(01:46:09) – Life going forward(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA(02:03:19) – Building a database(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-roddenNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:54) – Injuries(00:03:28) – Writing her book(00:08:14) – Excavating memories(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy(00:13:59) – Living in fear(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy(00:27:06) – Putting the book together(00:28:29) – A shared experience(00:37:45) – Being honest(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy’s book(00:47:39) – Facing backlash(00:56:11) – Reductionism(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career(01:10:48) – Magic Line(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs(01:44:28) – The next level down(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth’s book(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser