TBP 258: Training and Climbing for People with Full-Time Jobs
May 1, 2024
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Coaches Alex Stiger & Matt Pincus discuss training climbers with full-time jobs. Topics include fitting training into workdays, nutrition tips for shift workers, bouldering for 9-5 employees, avoiding overtraining, and balancing climbing with work. Bonus content covers FOMO, training plans, hanging, and more.
Balancing recovery from work shifts and short, effective training sessions can prevent overtraining for shift workers.
Utilize regular climbing partners for consistency, focus on specific climbing goals during weekdays, and save complex projects for weekends for 9-to-5 workers.
Introduce variety in workouts based on climbing goals, customize sessions to address weaknesses, and push beyond comfort zones for routine climbers.
Deep dives
Shift Worker Training Schedule
Shift workers, balancing long shifts and climbing goals, are advised to prioritize recovery from work shifts and climbing training fatigue. Short, concise training sessions, like hangboarding or strength exercises during breaks, can help bridge gaps between climbing sessions. Adjusting the schedule to ensure high-quality sessions and engaging in short but effective workouts can prevent overtraining and maintain consistency.
Nine-to-Five Climber's Gym Strategy
Individuals working a 9-to-5 desk job are encouraged to utilize their regular climbing partners for consistency. Recommending varied weekday sessions focusing on specific climbing goals, such as harder moves or endurance, can optimize limited time in crowded gyms. Emphasizing clear training intentions during the week and saving complex projects for weekends can lead to better progress and enjoyable climbing experiences.
Diversifying Gym Sessions for Weekday Climbing
For climbers stuck in routine weekday sessions, introducing variety in workouts based on different climbing goals can be beneficial. Customizing sessions to match specific weaknesses, like power endurance or power training, can address individual needs. Breaking out of repetitive patterns and pushing beyond comfort zones during gym sessions can lead to skill development and overall improvement in climbing performance.
Maintaining Flexibility in Training Schedules
It is emphasized in the podcast that following a rigid training schedule, like climbing on set days every week, can lead to burnout or performance plateaus. The importance of varying routines throughout the year to prevent staleness and exhaustion is highlighted. The speakers suggest choosing when to focus on climbing outdoors and when to prioritize training, advocating for flexibility in training days to introduce variety and manage gym crowding.
Balancing Rest and Training Intensity for Optimal Performance
The podcast delves into the significance of balancing rest and training intensity, particularly for nine-to-five workers who have ample training time after work. It is suggested that overtraining during the week can lead to fatigue and suboptimal outdoor climbing performance. The speakers stress the need for deliberate goal setting, prioritizing climbing training over supplemental exercises, and the importance of quality nutrition to support energy levels and recovery for improved climbing performance.
I talked with coaches Alex Stiger and Matt Pincus about how they coach their clients to make the best use of their time outside of work to train and climb. And I talk about how to eat well throughout every day to fuel yourself for climbing and training, regardless of what your busy schedule looks like.
We looked at three case studies:
The 9-5 employee
Shift workers (health care workers, etc)
Parent who may or may not have a job
Things We Covered
How to fit training in even on work days for a shift worker
What to do on days off after shift work stint is over
Nutrition tips for shift workers
Should 9-5’ers focus on bouldering to make the most of their time?
How often to be training and climbing
Making sure to vary sessions
Different climbing/training schedules for weekend warriors
How to avoid overtraining
Importance of having a plan B if you’re a parent
Usefulness of home walls for parents
Bonus Content on Patreon
Patreon Bonus Content
There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about:
Having FOMO when we see pros’ training plans on social media
How to know what’s right for YOU
Minimum effective dosage of hanging and weight lifting
How my climbing training has evolved to be almost completely on-the-wall and why that’s still considered “training”
What is “training” exactly?
You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page.
