528: The New Taiwanese Pantry with Lisa Cheng Smith
Jan 17, 2025
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Lisa Cheng Smith, founder of Yun Hai Taiwanese Pantry in Brooklyn, shares her journey of bringing Taiwanese flavors to New York. She discusses her innovative products, like Sue Chili Crisp, and the importance of community support in her business. Lisa also highlights unique Taiwanese ingredients and traditional cooking methods, emphasizing the cultural significance of food. Additionally, they touch on a new cooking show celebrating Taiwanese home cooking and the evolution of Taiwanese cuisine in the U.S., showcasing the rich culinary heritage that connects people.
Lisa Cheng Smith emphasizes the importance of practical cooking techniques, inspired by familial practices, to foster enjoyment rather than perfection in meals.
The evolution of Yun Hai Taiwanese Pantry highlights a growing demand for authentic Taiwanese ingredients and cultural connection within the U.S. diaspora.
Dried fruits and the Datong rice cooker are significant in Taiwanese culture, promoting sustainability and bridging culinary traditions across generations.
Deep dives
Importance of Everyday Cooking Techniques
The podcast emphasizes the value of everyday cooking techniques, drawing inspiration from the informal cooking practices of familial figures like grandmothers. Rather than striving for culinary perfection, the host suggests that simplifying cooking by utilizing available ingredients and tools is key. This practical approach mirrors the fluid nature of Taiwanese cooking, where meals build upon each other, creating a cycle of dish creation that uses leftovers creatively. By adopting this mindset, meal preparation becomes less daunting and more about enjoyment and resourcefulness.
The Evolution of Yunhai Taiwanese Pantry
The discussion explores the journey of Yunhai Taiwanese Pantry, from its inception as an importer of Taiwanese goods to a producer of unique products. The founder details the importance of maintaining authenticity in Taiwanese cuisine while creating a space that provides hard-to-find ingredients. This evolution reflects a growing appreciation and demand for Taiwanese culinary traditions within the U.S. The pantry represents a cultural hub that not only sells ingredients but also connects the Taiwanese diaspora through shared food experiences.
Culinary Importance of Dried Fruits
Dried fruits hold a significant place in Taiwanese culture, serving as snacks that differ greatly from their Western counterparts. The podcast discusses the successful launch of a dried fruit line, which emerged in response to an opportunity to support local Taiwanese farmers facing export restrictions. This initiative highlights both the agricultural richness of Taiwan and the increasing demand for authentic dried fruit products. By promoting these items, the podcast captures the essence of Taiwanese snack culture while supporting biodiversity and sustainable farming practices.
Cultural Connection Through Cooking Appliances
The podcast delves into the cultural significance of the Datong rice cooker, an appliance that embodies the historical and communal aspects of Taiwanese cooking. This rice cooker not only prepares food but also offers a glimpse into Taiwanese culinary methods that prioritize steaming and versatility. By distributing this beloved appliance in the U.S., Yunhai connects Taiwanese culture with a broader audience, allowing for the preservation of traditional cooking techniques. The discussion highlights how such tools can create shared culinary experiences across different generations and cultures.
Recipes as a Vehicle for Storytelling
In sharing recipes, the podcast underscores the role of storytelling in Taiwanese cuisine. The conversation emphasizes that while iconic dishes are essential, everyday meals often reflect the true nature of cultural cooking practices. Recipes provided aim to educate others on how to adapt cooking techniques and utilize ingredients flexibly, mirroring the spontaneous nature of Taiwanese food preparation. This narrative approach encourages listeners to view cooking as an evolving practice that fosters connection to family and heritage.
The Future of Taiwanese Food Representation
The podcast discusses the shifting landscape of Taiwanese food representation in the U.S., noting the growing recognition and understanding of Taiwan’s unique culinary identity. The founder reflects on how the political climate has influenced public interest and awareness of Taiwanese cuisine and culture. This shift allows for more nuanced storytelling, which helps to differentiate Taiwanese food as distinct from broader Chinese culinary traditions. The conversation points to a future with increased validation and celebration of Taiwanese food on both local and international stages.
Lisa Cheng Smith is the founder of Yun Hai Taiwanese Pantry, an importer, online shop, and brick-and-mortar general store in Brooklyn offering premium ingredients for Taiwanese and Chinese cooking. Yun Hai has quickly established itself as a beating heart of the Taiwanese diaspora here in New York, and in this episode, we talk with Lisa about growing the business into making their own products, where to get great Taiwanese food in NYC, and more.
Also on the show, Clayton and Matt go over their favorite books of 2024, both new and less new!
Clayton's picks: The Stronghold - Dino Buzzati, Three Summers - Margarita Liberaki, In Love - Alfred Hayes, Speedboat, Renata Adler Mating - Norman Rush,The End of Vandalism - Tom Drury, Playboy - Constance Debre, Love Me Tender - Constance Debre, Permafrost - Eva Baltasar, Boulder - Eva Baltasar, Mammoth - Eva Baltasar, The Third Realm - Karl Ove Knausgaard, Long Island Compromise - Taffy Brodesser-Akner
Matt's picks: Great Expectations - Vinson Cunningham, Reboot - Justin Taylor, The Friday Afternoon Club - Griffin Dunne, Real Americans - Rachel Khong, Ghosts - Dolly Alderton, Hard Rain Falling - Don Carpenter, The Underground Railroad - Colson Whitehead, The Nickel Boys - Colson Whitehead, Chang-Gang All-Stars - Nana Kwame Adjei-Brenyah, Long Island Compromise - Taffy Brodesser-Akner
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