Coach Ollie Torr: Training like Alex Honnold, Climbing Endurance Hacks, Beginner Plateaus, and Listener Questions
Feb 7, 2024
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Coach Ollie Torr discusses adjusting training during sickness, building power like Alex Honnold, breaking through beginner plateaus, energy system top-ups, and the importance of more than finger strength. They also share an easy hack to build endurance and discuss the benefits of CrossFit style training for climbing.
Adapt training when ill to maintain gains and optimize recovery.
Diversify climbing style to conquer plateaus and enhance performance.
Prioritize technique development, gradual strength building, and recovery to prevent injury and improve long-term progress.
Deep dives
Balancing Climbing Goals with Work Commitments
The podcast discusses the challenge of balancing aspiring climbing goals with work commitments, highlighting personal struggles encountered in managing climbing aspirations alongside a busy work schedule. The speaker shares experiences of transitioning between climbing styles, such as switching from multi-pitch climbs to bouldering and the impact of social activities on training consistency.
Optimizing Training Approaches and Adjusting Goals
Training strategies for climbing performance are addressed, emphasizing the importance of adapting training plans when under the weather. The conversation delves into methods of building endurance during daily activities, integrating CrossFit training into climbing routines, and adjusting goals based on physical condition and external factors to optimize performance outcomes.
Strategies for Improving Finger Strength and Overcoming Plateaus
Strategies to enhance finger strength and break through climbing plateaus are explored. The discussion includes incorporating body tension exercises to improve specific climbing movements, implementing footless bouldering to target upper body engagement, and focusing on replication drills to enhance confidence and performance on challenging climbs. The importance of structured warm-ups and balancing climbing sessions with finger strength training is highlighted as a key approach for climbers seeking skill development and strength progression.
Importance of Skill Development in Climbing
Prioritizing skill development and technique in climbing is crucial, especially in the early stages of climbing. Building finger strength gradually and allowing tendons to strengthen over time are essential to prevent injuries and see progress. Focusing on enjoying the climbing process and maintaining motivation can lead to long-term gains.
Balancing Training and Recovery in Climbing
Striking a balance between training and recovery is key in climbing. Implementing crossfit-style circuit training off the wall can enhance endurance and prepare for long multi-pitch trad routes. Setting limits on training frequency, recognizing signs of overtraining, and incorporating deload periods are vital in preventing burnout and optimizing performance.
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
The struggle makes us stronger! Thanks so much for listening and supporting.
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