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Best of the Spectator

Table Talk: Philip Hensher

Jan 2, 2024
Novelist and regular contributor to The Spectator's books pages, Philip Hensher, discusses his childhood love for offal, the secret to a perfect carbonara, and how food is a great character device for novelists. Topics also include meals from the late 1960s and early 1970s, learning to cook and culinary correctness, scandalous novels, butcher recommendations, Bengali cuisine, memorable fish meals, and the incorporation of food into writing.
30:42

Episode guests

Podcast summary created with Snipd AI

Quick takeaways

  • Food can reveal a character's personality and the time period they belong to in novels.
  • Philip Henscher developed a passion for offal as a child and has a perfected carbonara recipe.

Deep dives

Childhood Food Memories

One of Philip Henscher's earliest food memories is of his mother making a dish called nests, consisting of mince in a circle of mashed potatoes. He also recalls loving liver, which was convenient for his parents living on a tight budget. As a child, their meals mainly consisted of gray steak and water, but they gradually started exploring more adventurous dishes like chili con carne and homemade curries. Philip enjoyed cooking with his mother, starting with making gravy and eventually progressing to making cheese straws and biscuits.

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