Novelist and regular contributor to The Spectator's books pages, Philip Hensher, discusses his childhood love for offal, the secret to a perfect carbonara, and how food is a great character device for novelists. Topics also include meals from the late 1960s and early 1970s, learning to cook and culinary correctness, scandalous novels, butcher recommendations, Bengali cuisine, memorable fish meals, and the incorporation of food into writing.
Food can reveal a character's personality and the time period they belong to in novels.
Philip Henscher developed a passion for offal as a child and has a perfected carbonara recipe.
Deep dives
Childhood Food Memories
One of Philip Henscher's earliest food memories is of his mother making a dish called nests, consisting of mince in a circle of mashed potatoes. He also recalls loving liver, which was convenient for his parents living on a tight budget. As a child, their meals mainly consisted of gray steak and water, but they gradually started exploring more adventurous dishes like chili con carne and homemade curries. Philip enjoyed cooking with his mother, starting with making gravy and eventually progressing to making cheese straws and biscuits.
Cooking Adventures and Correctness in Food
As Philip Henscher grew older, he continued his culinary journey and learned to cook more confidently. He followed recipes strictly and compared various versions to find the ideal way of preparing a dish. He particularly emphasizes the importance of correctness in food, citing his perfected carbonara recipe as an example. Philip's passion for cooking extended to exploring different culinary traditions, such as Szechuan cuisine and Bengali cooking, where he developed an appreciation for bitter vegetables. He also shared his love for fish markets and his fond memories of culinary experiences in Japan.
Writing and Food
Philip Henscher integrates food into his writing as a way to add depth to his characters and settings. He believes that food choices can reveal a lot about a character's personality and the time period in which they live. Philip shared that he finds all meals in novels to be disgusting, except for one in Emma, where sweetbreads and asparagus are mentioned. Despite not having a sweet tooth, he enjoys preparing and eating rice pudding with rhubarb and lavender, a flavor combination he believes he invented. Philip's ultimate desert island meal would consist of oysters, sweetbreads with asparagus, and a new and exciting cheese to discover.
Philip Hensher is a novelist and regular contributor to The Spectator’s books pages. His books cover a variety of subjects and often deal with important historical change, such as the fall of the Berlin wall and the war in Afghanistan. His most recent novel is To Battersea Park.
On the podcast, he discusses how he developed an affection for offal as a small child, the secret to an ‘austerely perfect’ carbonara, and why food is a such a great character device for novelists.
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