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Lattice Training Podcast

Latest episodes

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Oct 1, 2022 • 1h 11min

Part 2 of the Adam Fiala 5.14a Journey!

In this episode, we’ve got Adam Fiala and Tom Randall back to finish off what they started in this 2-part storytelling podcast. If you’re looking for the first section of the journey where Adam shares his story about the dream to climb his first 5.14 you can find it here http://mujsuplik.blogspot.com/p/dancing-with-wolves-blog-series.html .  The interview is structured in the same manner as part 1, where Tom narrates the blog on behalf of Adam as English isn’t his first language. He then follows up with questions relevant to each stage of Adam’s development and goal to climb his project. As a recap of part 1, they covered:Adam’s climbing and training history Common misconceptions about working with a coach Details of Performance profilingLattice’s different approach to trainingNutrition behind Adam’s training, and his fears of weight gainIn part 2, they cover:The specific details of his training program The unexpected social implications of the programSome of his doubts about the programHis first time on real rock after 16 weeks of trainingThe importance of assembling hard “side projects” for confidenceFirst time on the “main project”The hard truth about trainingHis thoughts on gaining weight and how it influenced his performance on the rockThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Sep 24, 2022 • 20min

Improve Your Power Endurance Part 2: Projecting and Redpointing

Tom Randall returns in another 'solo podcast' for part 2 of the Power Endurance series. In this episode, he dives into the aspects of performance and preparation that have the greatest effects on the projecting and redpointing process. We can't really overstate how important these factors are and how much the use of them is the crowning glory on top of all the hard training you've done over the years. Get these sorted and you'll be ticking harder and faster, more consistently! Like Part 1 (specificity of technical, physical and psychological factors), this one breaks into three parts:TacticalDialling the cruxDealing with the redpoint cruxClips and quickdrawsTime of day and crag conditionsTop down tacticsPhysicalTraining and projecting at the same timePace trainingGaining training volume on restsWarm up tricks and tipsPsychologicalVisualisation away from the cragControlling allostatic loadYour 'perfect day' listExpectations settingRemaining process focused. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Sep 17, 2022 • 1h 1min

9a in less than 4 years of climbing: Martina Demmel's story

In today's podcast Maddy Cope talks to Martina Demmel. Martina started climbing at the age of 15, and is now 20,  and despite the fairly short climbing career so far, she has a vast number of hard sport climbs under her belt.Her sport climbing is characterised by fast ascents and hard onsights, as well as achieving so across many different styles. Last year she climbed her first 9a - Joe Cita - and joined the small club of female climbers that have on sighted 8b+, with her onsight of Humildes pa Casa. Main Topics:Martina’s background in skiing and how this translated to climbingBuilding a large pyramid and climbing routes quicklyBeing short and finding your own betaMindset and approach to climbingDifferent ways of approaching outdoor and competitive climbingThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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5 snips
Sep 10, 2022 • 1h 4min

Resilient and Flexible minds: Interview with Lor Sabourin

In todays episode, Tom Randall sits down with Lor Sabourin, who is an unwavering advocate for the non-binary and trans community in climbing, and has a lot to share. Their work in Warriorsway is very valuable, equipping climbers with resilient and flexible minds to deal with stress and anxiety. These mental tools are not just useful for climbers but can come in handy for everyday life.Tom and Lor met through the trad community in USA, with both having a common interest in crack climbing.  Lor keeps crushing outdoor climbing, as they are not only a training leader for Warriorsway, but also a rock guide and professional climber who has climbed up to 5.14, with some pretty scary sends. So, if you're interested in some food for thought, take a listen to today's podcast and let us know if you enjoyed it!Main topics:How Warriors way helped them with their fear of fallingMental Toughness VS Mental agilityHow to tackle controllable and uncontrollable factors in climbingRealistic climbing journaling Limits VS BoundariesTips on fear of fallingThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Sep 3, 2022 • 44min

Project Obsession and Managing Conditions: SwizzyBouldering Part 2

Having a family and climbing means a lot of planning and rotating your projects in order to be able to project without missing prime seasons in different crags.  So, today we have the second part of Martin Keller's interview with Tom Randall, where they reveal some of their secrets for juggling it all.Martin, or @swizzybouldering is known by some for getting fairly obsessed withperforming, which has resulted in him sometimes over training, not resting andnot looking at conditions. However he has started to see the benefits of a morestructured approach, as well as picking and choosing the days to get hisproject. So tune in to find out more about his approach in this department.Main topics:Being obsessed with a project and how to manage optimal conditionsBenefits of fingerboarding with a structural planManaging training with familyPutting it all together at the end (timing, little extras, partners, and doubt)The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Aug 27, 2022 • 1h 3min

Weak performance metrics, but elite performance? An Interview with SwizzyBouldering Part 1

On a rare occasion, you get a climber who has climbed impressive grades, but their performance metrics put them on weaker grades. Typically this means that the climber has something special or elite about another facet of their performance, away from pure physiology. And what better way to understand this better than for Tom Randall to sit down with Martin Keller, who is also known as 'SwizzyBouldering', to talk about how he approaches his projecting and has become one of these rare cases.Today's podcast will be about all things projecting, and how strategy, mindset, and technical preparation to deal with the exact physical demands of the rock can help you send harder!We hope you enjoy it, and remember to keep an eye out for part 2.Main topics:Deciding on a projectHow early do you visit a project and try the moves?What is your strategy for breaking it down?Do you use certain tools that others don’t? Fans, ladder, rope?What’s important for mindset in projecting?The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Aug 20, 2022 • 54min

The Olympics, 9a, V14, Family and a Day Job! Interview with: Tom O'Halloran

In today's podcast,  Tom Randall sits down with one of Australia's most accomplished rock climbers, Tom O'Halloran. Having competed in the recent Tokyo Olympic games, bouldered up to V14, and also sport climbed 9a, this guest is a world class disciplined climber with a lot to share. In addition to his impressive climbing career, Tom has a family and a day job, so he has learnt a lot of valuable time managing skills in order to keep pushing his climbing to the limit. All of this will be discussed in today's podcast, but if you are keen to see more of Tom O'Halloran, then do check out his YouTube channel (link below), where he goes behind the scenes and mindset of climbing performance.  The main topics for today are:Australia's Climbing sceneSport climbing for BoulderersBouldering for Sport climbersClimbing grade progressionJuggling Sport vs Route climbing and training plan periodisationProjecting at your limitTom O’Halloran’s YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmMVI9Gf_VbPx_L9_6wrvpA?app=desktop The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Aug 15, 2022 • 1h 6min

World Class Finger Strength: Interview with Allison Vest

Today we have another returning guest having previously chatted on the show, with her partner in crime Kyra Condie. Who is both accomplished in indoor competitions as well as in outdoor climbing, having climbed up to V14! Please welcome back to the show .... Allison Vest!Allison first came to the attention of us at Lattice through a piece of data funnily enough. Quite some time ago, Tom Randall was compiling a list of the greatest finger strength levels ever measured in female athletes and Allison was right at the top.Naturally, he wanted to dig into the information a bit further as the numbers were pretty outrageous! Over the last few years, Allison has risen to the position of one of the most accomplished outdoor boulderers in the world having climbed up to V14, which is also on top of a track record of multiple competition podiums for indoor competition climbing. On top of this, she’s someone who has a prolific social media presence, seamlessly connecting between content that’s both light-hearted and serious, but always with such an accessible style. We wanted to get her back on the podcast to talk about all things performance, training and bouldering focused. Tune in to hear all about:Her transition from coached to self-coached climbingHow she manages training vs performingHer thoughts on restingHow she trains on a fingerboardWhat her ‘personal bests’ or scores on a fingerboard areTesting with Camp4 Human PerformanceWorking ‘strengths’ vs working ‘weaknesses’ in climbingHer personal warning signs for when to not strength trainHow to access the ‘top end’ in boulderingHow she deals with the ‘a Muerte’ attitude towards training and performanceThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Aug 6, 2022 • 1h 2min

Anna Hazelnutt Interview: E9 trad climbing, fear, falling and mental control

In this episode, we have one of the Lattice athlete team, Anna Hazelnutt, returning to the podcast with Tom Randall to discuss her incredible run of climbing performance since last year. We last interviewed her, with just a few trad leads under her belt and her first 5.14 sport climb. Since then, she’s gone on to repeat two of the most iconic E9s in the UK - ‘Once Upon A Time In The Southwest’ and also ‘Walk of Life’ in a remarkable trajectory of grade.We talk to Anna about why she originally chose to try Once Upon A Time In The Southwest, how she justified attempting an E9 with almost no trad experience and her methods for controlling fear and anxiety in stressful situations. She also shares with us her strategies for breaking down projects, all the way from the start to the middle ‘messy’ region and finally the ‘end’ where an attempt is imminent. Finally, Anna talks through how she’s specifically dealt with the 2 current season projects (Walk of Life and The Quarryman) and her ‘book chapter’ approach for breaking down long and hard routes that take multiple sessions. Tom also discusses the ‘uncertainty bucket’ concept and how this relates to his own climbing and those projects he’s shared with Anna as a climbing partner this past year. Topics covered:Anna’s background in highball climbing and sport climbingHer first trip to the UK and how an E9 was chosenThe process of projecting Once Upon A Time In The SouthwestHow she controls her fear and anxiety on leadAnna’s ‘book chapter’ method for visualising and breaking down projectsHow her current projects have gone and what she’s learntThe ‘uncertainty bucket’ conceptHer plans for the futureThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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10 snips
Jul 30, 2022 • 1h 1min

Interview with Molly Mitchel: On Breaking Her Back and Climbing 5.14 Trad

For today's podcast, Tom Randall sits down with Molly Mitchel,  a pro climber with a very unique story. Having come out of a climbing gym, she is now a rising star in the trad community. Who seemingly quickly decided to get into hard and very bold trad, having done accents in Colorado mountains, including China Doll, a super techy 5.14 climb.With more danger inevitably comes more risk and Molly sadly broke her back on her project "Crank It" 5.13+. Having fractured L2 and L3 vertebrae, getting back climbing can be a daunting and lengthy process. However, this really didn't stop her, and in 2021 Molly reached out to Lattice to get some coaching for overcoming her physical and mental trauma in order to finally send this route!So sit down and enjoy this coach-to-athlete interview as Tom and Molly discuss the work they put together in order for her to revisit the scene of her accident and conquer her demons.Topics covered:Molly's indoor climbing journeyHer first Trad climbing experiencesThe mental game needed for bold climbingHow her accident impacted her approach to climbingSetting goals to work on mental trauma, and commuting to themWhat Molly learned from the whole processFinal stages of projecting, including mental state control and confidenceThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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