Lattice Training Podcast

You might well have heard of today's guest, Ryan Devlin as he has become pretty well known for hosting his podcast - The Struggle Climbing Show. Over the years he has interviewed a number of fantastic and legendary climbers including:  Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill to name a couple. However something you might not know about Ryan, is that he has been a Lattice client for the last few years. So today coach Tom Randall is flipping the mic and putting  Ryan on the interview podium to chat about his own personal climbing and training journey. Ryan is a father of two and also holds down two jobs. On top of this he has improved his climbing grade from f6c+ to f7b+ just in the last year, so he has a lot to share on the hard work he has put in.  Although elements of his climbing journey has been discussed previously in some of his own interviews, today we will deep dive into his personal 'climbing struggles'.Topics covered:Ryan’s background in climbing and the journey up until starting a training plan What goals he set for himself and how his move to Red River Gorge impacted thisMeeting Eric Horst at the crag and his initial experiences with trainingRyan’s assessment strengths and weaknesses and how he tackled his finger strengthConverting power endurance into performanceWhat did deload weeks involve. His goals for flashing 12a and redpointing 13aHow running The Struggle Climbing Show has helped his climbingThis coming season and plans for a Lattice Training collab! Link to Ryan's podcast:https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this engaging discussion, Kevin Roet, author of "Climbing Psychology: Mind training for optimal climbing performance," dives into the psyche of climbers. He shares his journey of overcoming the fear of falling and offers practical methods for incorporating fall practice into climbing. The conversation highlights the importance of self-awareness, managing risk, and the psychological transition from indoor to outdoor climbing. Kevin's insights on anxiety management techniques and the power of self-reflection will inspire climbers to tackle mental challenges head-on.

In today's podcast, Tom Randall talks to Renee McGregor, a hugely experienced sports dietician whose career has spanned 20 years, including the London Olympics, Rio Paralympics and Commonwealth Games in Queensland. She’s also recently written a (5th) book ‘More Fuel You’ which covers the nutritional needs for sport participation, training, competitions etc.  This book looks at a number of the most popular diet options for athletes including low carb, vegan and intermittent fasting. One additional area that today's podcast will focus on is the topic of dysfunctional relationships with food that some athletes may experience at some point in their life and how this impacts their performance, health and long-term careers. Where Renee's journey in food and nutrition startedClassic misunderstandings athletes have in her industryHow do elite athletes differ from amateursHow sports differ from each otherHow the concept of fueling changes with ageKey differences in Orthorexia, Anorexia, Bulimia and Binge Eating DisorderPros and Cons of diet choicesImportant fueling element of the different population type groupsThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today coach Maddy Cope talks to John Kiely who is an elite performance coach and lecturer with experience across numerous sports. John explains the importance of our mindset and beliefs when it comes to training. It can be easy to fall into the trap of thinking physical adaptations are a case of “training stimulus in”, and “gains out” and in turn this has led us to coin the terms “responders” and “non-responders”. John explains the deeper complexity of physical adaptations in terms of the impact of our perceptions and introduces the concept of predictive processing and coding. and the idea of responders and non-responders. This podcast is a call for us to think more about our training approach, be curious about our monitoring and what works for us at any given time, and build trust in the process.Main topics:The importance of trusting the process in trainingA discussion of the generalisation of training principlesUnderstanding the complex of adaptationThe importance of mindset in training John's email and social media for queries: jkiely@simplysportssci.comhttps://twitter.com/simplysportsscihttps://www.instagram.com/simplysportssci/ https://www.linkedin.com/in/john-kiely-a77b9119/https://www.researchgate.net/profile/John-Kiely/researchThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast Lattice coach Maddy Cope talks to Dr Stacy Simms, a sport physiologist from New Zealand that has focused on female physiology in her research as well as published books. She is perhaps best known for coining the phrase “women are not small men”. In this episode we talk about the menstrual cycle, how Stacy views the current research, and how she arrives at practical application of this information in a training context.Some of the topics covered in this episode are:Changing the conversation around the menstrual cycleAn overview of the menstrual cycleThe different areas of research when it comes to the menstrual cycleThe idea behind phase based trainingTrackingSupplementsThe hormonal changes that occur in the lead up to the menopauseTraining during perimenopause and post menopauseChanges in body composition and nutritional considerationsThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

HOT OFF THE PRESS! Aidan Roberts just climbed Alphane, a 9A in Chironico  this week, so we got him to sit down with Tom Randall interview to discuss the news, the process and Aidan’s history with this line. This is the second ascent after Shawn Raboutou,  and one of the few 9A/V17s in the world right now. The interview is broken down into sections few, which should give everyone something to go away with, whether you’re in the double digits yourself or you’re interested in what process someone goes through to work towards a project at their limit. The big areas we discuss:The history of Alphane and Aidan’s first seasonHow he prepared for this past Switzerland tripHis thoughts on the line and what he’s up to nextQ&A session with Lattice audienceSpecific topics and questions covered:When did he first try the problemWho did he try it with and how did they climb/project? How his first trip went and what he learntHow he prepared with his coach, Ollie Torr, for his follow tripWhat ‘on the wall’ and ‘off the wall’ training he usedHis thoughts on teaming up with Will Bosi for a ‘Team Trip.’How the project sessions broke down, and what approaches they both usedThe send goHis next projects in Switzerland and ‘Alphane Right Hand’ lineHow he balances repeats vs FAsHis historic approach to mileage vs projecting. Which does he do more?What training has had the biggest impact ‘on rock’ for himHow much a week he trainsHow long does he rest between burnsWhat degree of ‘perfection’ does he look for in a move before making linksHis thoughts on Burden of Dreams, Isles Sit Start & SuperpowerWhat’s harder than Alphane? Is anything flying under the radar?The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

If you’re new to boulder projecting or even reasonably experienced, then this episode is for you! In today’s recording, we have Tom Randall giving his experience and advice on how to increase the chances of a successful tick this season, via his ‘Top 10’ strategies. Each of these approaches can be used in almost any situation and when you find ways to combine many of them on the same day, then you’re really winning! Projecting is about bringing all of your hard-won training improvements to the table and utilising them via the right strategies and tactics to achieve your goals. Like many approaches in climbing, these can be refined and learnt over the years, so get started now to improve your own journey. Tom’s Top 10 Strategies:Skin managementLadders, pad stacks and top ropesLearning weird positions and restsWho’s beta is best?Power spottingReplica work at homeWarm ups and flexibilityVisualisation on dynamic movesMultiple shoe optionsNot starting at the start… The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

If you’re new to projecting or reasonably experienced at redpointing, then this episode is for you! In this episode, we have Tom Randall giving his experience and advice on how to increase the chances of a successful tick this season, via his ‘Top 10’ strategies. Tom is no stranger to projecting, having had hundreds of successful redpoints over the last two decades including many multi-year projects. The approaches that you hear Tom explain in this podcast are ones which are directed mainly at beginner to intermediate climbers, but may also be missing strategies that some of you advanced climbers out there haven’t considered.Here’s the lineup of the top 10 strategies discussed:Energy wasting and conservationClipsticksYouTube and video betaUsing tiredness to your advantageBrushing as a method for familiarisationEnd-of-day recapsLearning your restsRoute maps and toposUsing early lead attempts for mental improvementsChoking and the use of ‘top down’ linksThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, we’ve got Adam Fiala and Tom Randall back to finish off what they started in this 2-part storytelling podcast. If you’re looking for the first section of the journey where Adam shares his story about the dream to climb his first 5.14 you can find it here http://mujsuplik.blogspot.com/p/dancing-with-wolves-blog-series.html .  The interview is structured in the same manner as part 1, where Tom narrates the blog on behalf of Adam as English isn’t his first language. He then follows up with questions relevant to each stage of Adam’s development and goal to climb his project. As a recap of part 1, they covered:Adam’s climbing and training history Common misconceptions about working with a coach Details of Performance profilingLattice’s different approach to trainingNutrition behind Adam’s training, and his fears of weight gainIn part 2, they cover:The specific details of his training program The unexpected social implications of the programSome of his doubts about the programHis first time on real rock after 16 weeks of trainingThe importance of assembling hard “side projects” for confidenceFirst time on the “main project”The hard truth about trainingHis thoughts on gaining weight and how it influenced his performance on the rockThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tom Randall returns in another 'solo podcast' for part 2 of the Power Endurance series. In this episode, he dives into the aspects of performance and preparation that have the greatest effects on the projecting and redpointing process. We can't really overstate how important these factors are and how much the use of them is the crowning glory on top of all the hard training you've done over the years. Get these sorted and you'll be ticking harder and faster, more consistently! Like Part 1 (specificity of technical, physical and psychological factors), this one breaks into three parts:TacticalDialling the cruxDealing with the redpoint cruxClips and quickdrawsTime of day and crag conditionsTop down tacticsPhysicalTraining and projecting at the same timePace trainingGaining training volume on restsWarm up tricks and tipsPsychologicalVisualisation away from the cragControlling allostatic loadYour 'perfect day' listExpectations settingRemaining process focused. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.