Lattice Training Podcast

Today we have the second part of the two-part podcast featuring pro climber Hazel Findlay.  Hazel has made a name for herself in the climbing world with her impressive trad ascents up to E9/10 and recently made headlines with her repeat of the challenging Esclatamasters 9a route in Perles.In the first part of our podcast, Tom Randall and Hazel focused on the physical aspects of climbing, exploring the methods, insights and takeaways from her training with Lattice through her coach Maddy Cope. Today, we will delve into the mental side of climbing, discussing the psychology and mental preparation and techniques that allowed Hazel to train effectively, project and perform on her 9a. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, don't miss this opportunity to learn from a true expert and find inspiration for your own climbing journey.John Kettle's book: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement/dp/1999654404/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=135296940233&gclid=Cj0KCQiAorKfBhC0ARIsAHDzslv7KVZ5VJ79IuCyej6CSQn-h91hTW8e-CnMGThaplZvYhHZULWWEZwaAnBNEALw_wcB&hvadid=584800588510&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1007064&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14622397484465433647&hvtargid=kwd-815159373797&hydadcr=24954_1816940&keywords=john+kettle+climbing+technique&qid=1676516509&sr=8-1The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Join us for an exciting two-part podcast featuring pro climber Hazel Findlay.  Hazel has made a name for herself in the climbing world with her impressive trad ascents up to E9/10 and recently made headlines with her repeat of the challenging Esclatamasters 9a route in Perles.In the first part of our podcast, Tom Randall and Hazel will focus on the physical aspects of climbing, exploring the methods, insights and takeaways from her training with Lattice through her coach Maddy Cope. In the second part, we will delve into the mental side of climbing, discussing the psychology and mental preparation and techniques that allowed Hazel to train effectively, project and perform on her 9a. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, don't miss this opportunity to learn from a true expert and find inspiration for your own climbing journey.John Kettle's book: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement/dp/1999654404/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=135296940233&gclid=Cj0KCQiAorKfBhC0ARIsAHDzslv7KVZ5VJ79IuCyej6CSQn-h91hTW8e-CnMGThaplZvYhHZULWWEZwaAnBNEALw_wcB&hvadid=584800588510&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1007064&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14622397484465433647&hvtargid=kwd-815159373797&hydadcr=24954_1816940&keywords=john+kettle+climbing+technique&qid=1676516509&sr=8-1The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Professional climber Aidan Roberts and top climber Will Bosi talk about topics such as finger strength, transitioning from comps to outdoor climbing, training with replicas, defining moments in their careers, and the strongest boulderers in the world right now.

In this podcast, coach Maddy Cope talks to Joy Black who you may know as @calliejoyblack, who returns for another insightful episode. Joy is a strength coach for pregnant and postpartum climbers and is currently 10 months postpartum herself. She educates about the pelvic floor, strength training and breathing as they relate to training during pregnancy and after birth. In this podcast, the conversation is all about Diastasis Recti. Diastasis is one of the most common terms seen online when looking into exercise during pregnancy and postpartum. As with many topics, the wealth of online information doesn’t necessarily make it clear what it is and how best to climb and train during pregnancy and postpartum to minimise the impact and allow good recovery.  So in this episode, Maddy and Joy hopefully can clarify it for you.In this podcast Joy explains:What diastasis is and why it happens during pregnancyCommon misconceptionsExplains the difference between coning and doming and what these signifyHow to feel and monitor your diastasisThe role of the deep core muscles and how we can manage the stress on our linea albaA practical way to find your deep core Core training for climbers during pregnancy and postpartumHanging exercises during pregnancy and returning to these postpartumWays in which we can modify or find appropriate exercises, taking diastasis into considerationIdeas for warming up before climbing to help connect to our breath and deep coreIf you want to check out a more general conversation Maddy and Joy had about strength training during pregnancy and postpartum, check out this episode.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast Maddy talks to Steve Thompson from Sheffield Hallam University about power and how we may approach developing our power for climbing. Power is an element of training that can cause a lot of confusion, yet it is an attribute that many climbers put on a high pedestal and seek to improve. Steve explains what power is and how we can best think about power when it comes to sports (and climbing). He talks about the big picture approach to developing power in a sustainable way, as well as different ways in which this may be integrated into a person's training:The definition of power and how we can think about this in a sport contextThe relationship between force and velocityIntention and monitoring trainingApproaches for developing powerIntention in trainingIn case of any questions, Steve is contactable on Twitter (@steve381), Research Gate (Steve Thompson) and via email (s.w.thompson@shu.ac.uk)The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Maddy talks to Uzo Ehiogu, a physiotherapist, lecturer and strength and conditioning coach, about lower limb injuries in climbing. With an increasing amount of information about injuries in climbing, we find ourselves swimming in content focused on the upper body (shoulders, elbows, fingers). This is understandable given the nature of climbing, however, it can lead us to neglect the lower body when it comes to understanding injuries and strength development. The lower body plays a huge role in tension in climbing and in this podcast Uzo discusses:The common lower limb injuries in climbingThe mechanisms of injury in the lower body when climbingDifferences between approaching acute and chronic injuriesHow to approach rehabilitation back to full strengthDifferences between lower limb injuries in climbing compared to other sports such as footballMethods for developing strength for heel hooks after injury (or before!)Uzo is the lead clinician at Inside Edge Physiotherapy,  a physiotherapy clinic for climbers based in Birmingham (UK) at the Depot Climbing Centre: https://www.insideedgephysio.com.Uzo is also an author and co-author of book chapters in The Shoulder Theory and Practice (High performance rehabilitation for the climbing athlete),  and Climbing Medicine - A practical guide  (Chapter 21 Injury prevention, Chapter 20 Climbing rehabilitation). And if you enjoyed those reads, then also take a look at his peer reviewed journals on climbing injuries and speed climbing training: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33189522/  https://journals.lww.com/nsca-scj/Abstract/9900/Strength_and_Conditioning_Considerations_for_Speed.40.aspx.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Ella Russell talks to Dr Nicky Keay, an honorary clinical lecturer in the division of medicine at University College London.  She lectures and researches in areas of exercise endocrinology, with publications in this field. Nicky’s clinical endocrine work is mainly with exercisers, dancers and athletes, with a focus on relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S) and athletes navigating perimenopause/menopause. In addition to being the author of the British Association of Sports and Exercise Medicine (BASM) Health4performance.co.uk online resource. She is also a medical advisor to Scottish Ballet and a keen dancer herself.With her recent and first book, “Health Hormones and Human Potential: A guide to understanding your hormones to optimise your health and performance”, we couldn't wait to have her back on the podcast!Some of the topics covered in this podcast are;What hormones are and why they are so fundamental to our bodily functions.How hormones influence our adaptations to training (or not as the case may be).What can happen when we don’t get the balance of training/climbing, recovery and nutrition right from a hormonal perspective.How do we spot if we’re moving into a state of non-functional overreaching and when this might tip into overtraining syndrome;What can we do if we find ourselves in a state which points towards non-functional overreaching? How can AI help us to identify if we are getting the balance right hormonally.How do our gut microbes use hormones to influence our physical and mental health.What can we do to improve our gut microbiome diversity and when should we do this.For Nicky's website check got to:https://nickykeayfitness.com/new-book/And to buy her book go to the following sources:https://www.sequoia-books.com/catalog/keay/https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hormones-Health-Human-Potential-Understanding/dp/191411020X/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=sPuam&content-id=amzn1.sym.9987c01f-79a1-401b-8cc0-4469362e1651&pf_rd_p=9987c01f-79a1-401b-8cc0-4469362e1651&pf_rd_r=EEXVF42265K8000CC4TZ&pd_rd_wg=90KJl&pd_rd_r=88d69466-d18b-452b-b2a4-12a55632c3a2&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_mThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

You might well have heard of today's guest, Ryan Devlin as he has become pretty well known for hosting his podcast - The Struggle Climbing Show. Over the years he has interviewed a number of fantastic and legendary climbers including:  Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill to name a couple. However something you might not know about Ryan, is that he has been a Lattice client for the last few years. So today coach Tom Randall is flipping the mic and putting  Ryan on the interview podium to chat about his own personal climbing and training journey. Ryan is a father of two and also holds down two jobs. On top of this he has improved his climbing grade from f6c+ to f7b+ just in the last year, so he has a lot to share on the hard work he has put in.  Although elements of his climbing journey has been discussed previously in some of his own interviews, today we will deep dive into his personal 'climbing struggles'.Topics covered:Ryan’s background in climbing and the journey up until starting a training plan What goals he set for himself and how his move to Red River Gorge impacted thisMeeting Eric Horst at the crag and his initial experiences with trainingRyan’s assessment strengths and weaknesses and how he tackled his finger strengthConverting power endurance into performanceWhat did deload weeks involve. His goals for flashing 12a and redpointing 13aHow running The Struggle Climbing Show has helped his climbingThis coming season and plans for a Lattice Training collab! Link to Ryan's podcast:https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this engaging discussion, Kevin Roet, author of "Climbing Psychology: Mind training for optimal climbing performance," dives into the psyche of climbers. He shares his journey of overcoming the fear of falling and offers practical methods for incorporating fall practice into climbing. The conversation highlights the importance of self-awareness, managing risk, and the psychological transition from indoor to outdoor climbing. Kevin's insights on anxiety management techniques and the power of self-reflection will inspire climbers to tackle mental challenges head-on.

In today's podcast, Tom Randall talks to Renee McGregor, a hugely experienced sports dietician whose career has spanned 20 years, including the London Olympics, Rio Paralympics and Commonwealth Games in Queensland. She’s also recently written a (5th) book ‘More Fuel You’ which covers the nutritional needs for sport participation, training, competitions etc.  This book looks at a number of the most popular diet options for athletes including low carb, vegan and intermittent fasting. One additional area that today's podcast will focus on is the topic of dysfunctional relationships with food that some athletes may experience at some point in their life and how this impacts their performance, health and long-term careers. Where Renee's journey in food and nutrition startedClassic misunderstandings athletes have in her industryHow do elite athletes differ from amateursHow sports differ from each otherHow the concept of fueling changes with ageKey differences in Orthorexia, Anorexia, Bulimia and Binge Eating DisorderPros and Cons of diet choicesImportant fueling element of the different population type groupsThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.