In this podcast, Maddy talks to Uzo Ehiogu, a physiotherapist, lecturer and strength and conditioning coach, about lower limb injuries in climbing. With an increasing amount of information about injuries in climbing, we find ourselves swimming in content focused on the upper body (shoulders, elbows, fingers). This is understandable given the nature of climbing, however, it can lead us to neglect the lower body when it comes to understanding injuries and strength development. The lower body plays a huge role in tension in climbing and in this podcast Uzo discusses:The common lower limb injuries in climbingThe mechanisms of injury in the lower body when climbingDifferences between approaching acute and chronic injuriesHow to approach rehabilitation back to full strengthDifferences between lower limb injuries in climbing compared to other sports such as footballMethods for developing strength for heel hooks after injury (or before!)Uzo is the lead clinician at Inside Edge Physiotherapy,  a physiotherapy clinic for climbers based in Birmingham (UK) at the Depot Climbing Centre: https://www.insideedgephysio.com.Uzo is also an author and co-author of book chapters in The Shoulder Theory and Practice (High performance rehabilitation for the climbing athlete),  and Climbing Medicine - A practical guide  (Chapter 21 Injury prevention, Chapter 20 Climbing rehabilitation). And if you enjoyed those reads, then also take a look at his peer reviewed journals on climbing injuries and speed climbing training: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33189522/  https://journals.lww.com/nsca-scj/Abstract/9900/Strength_and_Conditioning_Considerations_for_Speed.40.aspx.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Ella Russell talks to Dr Nicky Keay, an honorary clinical lecturer in the division of medicine at University College London.  She lectures and researches in areas of exercise endocrinology, with publications in this field. Nicky’s clinical endocrine work is mainly with exercisers, dancers and athletes, with a focus on relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S) and athletes navigating perimenopause/menopause. In addition to being the author of the British Association of Sports and Exercise Medicine (BASM) Health4performance.co.uk online resource. She is also a medical advisor to Scottish Ballet and a keen dancer herself.With her recent and first book, “Health Hormones and Human Potential: A guide to understanding your hormones to optimise your health and performance”, we couldn't wait to have her back on the podcast!Some of the topics covered in this podcast are;What hormones are and why they are so fundamental to our bodily functions.How hormones influence our adaptations to training (or not as the case may be).What can happen when we don’t get the balance of training/climbing, recovery and nutrition right from a hormonal perspective.How do we spot if we’re moving into a state of non-functional overreaching and when this might tip into overtraining syndrome;What can we do if we find ourselves in a state which points towards non-functional overreaching? How can AI help us to identify if we are getting the balance right hormonally.How do our gut microbes use hormones to influence our physical and mental health.What can we do to improve our gut microbiome diversity and when should we do this.For Nicky's website check got to:https://nickykeayfitness.com/new-book/And to buy her book go to the following sources:https://www.sequoia-books.com/catalog/keay/https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hormones-Health-Human-Potential-Understanding/dp/191411020X/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=sPuam&content-id=amzn1.sym.9987c01f-79a1-401b-8cc0-4469362e1651&pf_rd_p=9987c01f-79a1-401b-8cc0-4469362e1651&pf_rd_r=EEXVF42265K8000CC4TZ&pd_rd_wg=90KJl&pd_rd_r=88d69466-d18b-452b-b2a4-12a55632c3a2&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_mThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

You might well have heard of today's guest, Ryan Devlin as he has become pretty well known for hosting his podcast - The Struggle Climbing Show. Over the years he has interviewed a number of fantastic and legendary climbers including:  Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill to name a couple. However something you might not know about Ryan, is that he has been a Lattice client for the last few years. So today coach Tom Randall is flipping the mic and putting  Ryan on the interview podium to chat about his own personal climbing and training journey. Ryan is a father of two and also holds down two jobs. On top of this he has improved his climbing grade from f6c+ to f7b+ just in the last year, so he has a lot to share on the hard work he has put in.  Although elements of his climbing journey has been discussed previously in some of his own interviews, today we will deep dive into his personal 'climbing struggles'.Topics covered:Ryan’s background in climbing and the journey up until starting a training plan What goals he set for himself and how his move to Red River Gorge impacted thisMeeting Eric Horst at the crag and his initial experiences with trainingRyan’s assessment strengths and weaknesses and how he tackled his finger strengthConverting power endurance into performanceWhat did deload weeks involve. His goals for flashing 12a and redpointing 13aHow running The Struggle Climbing Show has helped his climbingThis coming season and plans for a Lattice Training collab! Link to Ryan's podcast:https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Maddy sits down with Kevin Roet to talk about the fear of falling and ways to integrate fall practice into climbing. Psychology and fear are complex topics, but fear of falling is undoubtedly something that impacts many climbers' enjoyment and performance. Kevin described his personal journey that has led to him writing a book on this topic; Climbing Psychology: Mind training for optimal climbing performanceMain topics:Kevin’s journey and overcoming fear of fallingDeveloping self awarenessUnderstanding the theory alongside implementing the practiceFocusing on the process and understanding your expectationsManaging risk in fall practiceKevin’s approach to practical application of fall practice outdoorsLinks to book here: https://shop.riseandsummit.co.uk/https://www.wolverinepublishing.com/store/climbing-psychology/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's podcast, Tom Randall talks to Renee McGregor, a hugely experienced sports dietician whose career has spanned 20 years, including the London Olympics, Rio Paralympics and Commonwealth Games in Queensland. She’s also recently written a (5th) book ‘More Fuel You’ which covers the nutritional needs for sport participation, training, competitions etc.  This book looks at a number of the most popular diet options for athletes including low carb, vegan and intermittent fasting. One additional area that today's podcast will focus on is the topic of dysfunctional relationships with food that some athletes may experience at some point in their life and how this impacts their performance, health and long-term careers. Where Renee's journey in food and nutrition startedClassic misunderstandings athletes have in her industryHow do elite athletes differ from amateursHow sports differ from each otherHow the concept of fueling changes with ageKey differences in Orthorexia, Anorexia, Bulimia and Binge Eating DisorderPros and Cons of diet choicesImportant fueling element of the different population type groupsThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today coach Maddy Cope talks to John Kiely who is an elite performance coach and lecturer with experience across numerous sports. John explains the importance of our mindset and beliefs when it comes to training. It can be easy to fall into the trap of thinking physical adaptations are a case of “training stimulus in”, and “gains out” and in turn this has led us to coin the terms “responders” and “non-responders”. John explains the deeper complexity of physical adaptations in terms of the impact of our perceptions and introduces the concept of predictive processing and coding. and the idea of responders and non-responders. This podcast is a call for us to think more about our training approach, be curious about our monitoring and what works for us at any given time, and build trust in the process.Main topics:The importance of trusting the process in trainingA discussion of the generalisation of training principlesUnderstanding the complex of adaptationThe importance of mindset in training John's email and social media for queries: jkiely@simplysportssci.comhttps://twitter.com/simplysportsscihttps://www.instagram.com/simplysportssci/ https://www.linkedin.com/in/john-kiely-a77b9119/https://www.researchgate.net/profile/John-Kiely/researchThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast Lattice coach Maddy Cope talks to Dr Stacy Simms, a sport physiologist from New Zealand that has focused on female physiology in her research as well as published books. She is perhaps best known for coining the phrase “women are not small men”. In this episode we talk about the menstrual cycle, how Stacy views the current research, and how she arrives at practical application of this information in a training context.Some of the topics covered in this episode are:Changing the conversation around the menstrual cycleAn overview of the menstrual cycleThe different areas of research when it comes to the menstrual cycleThe idea behind phase based trainingTrackingSupplementsThe hormonal changes that occur in the lead up to the menopauseTraining during perimenopause and post menopauseChanges in body composition and nutritional considerationsThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

HOT OFF THE PRESS! Aidan Roberts just climbed Alphane, a 9A in Chironico  this week, so we got him to sit down with Tom Randall interview to discuss the news, the process and Aidan’s history with this line. This is the second ascent after Shawn Raboutou,  and one of the few 9A/V17s in the world right now. The interview is broken down into sections few, which should give everyone something to go away with, whether you’re in the double digits yourself or you’re interested in what process someone goes through to work towards a project at their limit. The big areas we discuss:The history of Alphane and Aidan’s first seasonHow he prepared for this past Switzerland tripHis thoughts on the line and what he’s up to nextQ&A session with Lattice audienceSpecific topics and questions covered:When did he first try the problemWho did he try it with and how did they climb/project? How his first trip went and what he learntHow he prepared with his coach, Ollie Torr, for his follow tripWhat ‘on the wall’ and ‘off the wall’ training he usedHis thoughts on teaming up with Will Bosi for a ‘Team Trip.’How the project sessions broke down, and what approaches they both usedThe send goHis next projects in Switzerland and ‘Alphane Right Hand’ lineHow he balances repeats vs FAsHis historic approach to mileage vs projecting. Which does he do more?What training has had the biggest impact ‘on rock’ for himHow much a week he trainsHow long does he rest between burnsWhat degree of ‘perfection’ does he look for in a move before making linksHis thoughts on Burden of Dreams, Isles Sit Start & SuperpowerWhat’s harder than Alphane? Is anything flying under the radar?The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

If you’re new to boulder projecting or even reasonably experienced, then this episode is for you! In today’s recording, we have Tom Randall giving his experience and advice on how to increase the chances of a successful tick this season, via his ‘Top 10’ strategies. Each of these approaches can be used in almost any situation and when you find ways to combine many of them on the same day, then you’re really winning! Projecting is about bringing all of your hard-won training improvements to the table and utilising them via the right strategies and tactics to achieve your goals. Like many approaches in climbing, these can be refined and learnt over the years, so get started now to improve your own journey. Tom’s Top 10 Strategies:Skin managementLadders, pad stacks and top ropesLearning weird positions and restsWho’s beta is best?Power spottingReplica work at homeWarm ups and flexibilityVisualisation on dynamic movesMultiple shoe optionsNot starting at the start… The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

If you’re new to projecting or reasonably experienced at redpointing, then this episode is for you! In this episode, we have Tom Randall giving his experience and advice on how to increase the chances of a successful tick this season, via his ‘Top 10’ strategies. Tom is no stranger to projecting, having had hundreds of successful redpoints over the last two decades including many multi-year projects. The approaches that you hear Tom explain in this podcast are ones which are directed mainly at beginner to intermediate climbers, but may also be missing strategies that some of you advanced climbers out there haven’t considered.Here’s the lineup of the top 10 strategies discussed:Energy wasting and conservationClipsticksYouTube and video betaUsing tiredness to your advantageBrushing as a method for familiarisationEnd-of-day recapsLearning your restsRoute maps and toposUsing early lead attempts for mental improvementsChoking and the use of ‘top down’ linksThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.