The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Feb 5, 2019 • 1h 1min
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.
Jan 25, 2019 • 1h 18min
TBP 119: How Tom O’Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.
Jan 17, 2019 • 1h 12min
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
Jan 10, 2019 • 1h 8min
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.
Dec 13, 2018 • 1h 43min
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
Dr. Jared Vagy, physical therapist, discusses healing finger injuries in climbers using the Rock Rehab Pyramid. Topics include finger pulley sprains, hybrid programs in physical therapy, finger flexor strains, eccentric training, visual appearance of finger injuries, training finger extensors and flexors, optimal time frame for finger injury rehab, centralized pain, and the role of food and protein in healing injuries.
Oct 26, 2018 • 1h 9min
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan
In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and why becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.
Oct 17, 2018 • 1h 32min
TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
In this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train.
Sep 19, 2018 • 1h 17min
TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.
Sep 12, 2018 • 1h 21min
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear and Setting Big Goals
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame a fear of falling after a climbing accident, and her dialed-in diet.
Aug 15, 2018 • 54min
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
I talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.
