The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books
May 15, 2019 • 1h 15min
TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist’s Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b
I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.
Apr 2, 2019 • 1h 10min
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.
6 snips
Mar 26, 2019 • 1h 10min
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.
Mar 18, 2019 • 1h 15min
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.
Feb 27, 2019 • 1h 16min
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals
In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.
Feb 5, 2019 • 1h 1min
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.
Jan 25, 2019 • 1h 18min
TBP 119: How Tom O’Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.
Jan 17, 2019 • 1h 12min
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
Jan 10, 2019 • 1h 8min
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.
Dec 13, 2018 • 1h 43min
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
Dr. Jared Vagy, physical therapist, discusses healing finger injuries in climbers using the Rock Rehab Pyramid. Topics include finger pulley sprains, hybrid programs in physical therapy, finger flexor strains, eccentric training, visual appearance of finger injuries, training finger extensors and flexors, optimal time frame for finger injury rehab, centralized pain, and the role of food and protein in healing injuries.
