The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Oct 24, 2019 • 1h 20min
TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother
Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.
Oct 17, 2019 • 1h 10min
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.
Oct 2, 2019 • 1h 8min
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Dr. Tyler Nelson, finger strength expert, discusses a simple finger training protocol on a hangboard and adjustments for climbers at different experience levels. They also explore the benefits of a simple training protocol, the importance of finger training for climbing, and upcoming episodes covering various topics.
Sep 9, 2019 • 1h 23min
TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.
Aug 23, 2019 • 1h 10min
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.
Aug 12, 2019 • 1h 23min
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
Jul 24, 2019 • 1h 28min
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.
Jun 28, 2019 • 1h 7min
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.
Jun 12, 2019 • 1h 11min
TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.
May 29, 2019 • 1h 12min
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.
