TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Oct 2, 2019
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Dr. Tyler Nelson, finger strength expert, discusses a simple finger training protocol on a hangboard and adjustments for climbers at different experience levels. They also explore the benefits of a simple training protocol, the importance of finger training for climbing, and upcoming episodes covering various topics.
Beginner climbers should start with density hangs and recruitment pulls, while intermediate climbers can follow the same protocols with smaller edge sizes.
Advanced climbers can incorporate velocity hangs or polls to focus on speed and sport-specific training.
The timing and frequency of finger training are crucial, with training days scheduled before climbing and rest days to optimize recovery and performance.
Deep dives
Beginner climbers
For beginner climbers, it is recommended to start with density hangs and recruitment polls. Hanging on to a bar or jug to failure for 30-45 seconds, three times a week is sufficient for tendon density training. Recruitment polls, where you stand underneath a hangboard and pull down as hard as you can for 3-5 seconds, can be done one arm at a time on a 20mm edge, or both arms on a larger edge. This protocol can be done four to five times per set.
Intermediate climbers
Intermediate climbers can follow the same protocols as beginners but with smaller edge sizes. Recruitment polls and density hangs can still be done, but using a smaller edge size based on individual strength. One set of three to four repetitions each exercise, two to three times per week, is sufficient for tendon loading and improving finger strength.
Advanced climbers
Advanced climbers can continue to use the same protocols as beginners and intermediate climbers, but with smaller and more challenging edge sizes. They can also incorporate velocity hangs or velocity polls, which require the muscle and tendon to act as a unit and contract quickly. The focus should be on speed and sport-specific finger training. Advanced climbers should have a good understanding of their own capacity and auto-regulate their intensity and volume accordingly.
Key Point 1: Training Protocol
The podcast discusses a training protocol for finger strength that is simple and effective. The protocol involves density hangs and recruitment pulls. Density hangs are done on a hangboard, focusing on hanging for a specific time (e.g., 15-60 seconds) on different edge sizes. Recruitment pulls involve one-arm hangs and aim to increase finger strength by lifting the body with one arm. The protocol is designed to be time-efficient and does not require additional equipment like weights or pulleys.
Key Point 2: Training Timing and Frequency
The podcast highlights the importance of timing and frequency for finger training. It suggests training finger strength on days when climbing is done later in the day, with a rest day after training. The timing allows for adequate recovery and optimal performance during climbing sessions. The training protocol can be done three days a week, and it is recommended to vary the frequency based on personal climbing schedule and physical condition. The podcast emphasizes the need for individual flexibility and adaptation in training programs.
