The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Mar 12, 2020 • 1h 18min
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.
Feb 26, 2020 • 1h 22min
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.
Feb 6, 2020 • 1h 18min
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.
4 snips
Jan 22, 2020 • 1h 20min
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
Zahan Billimoria, coach, climber, and mountain guide, discusses the importance of core training for climbing and shares his bodyweight core training program. They cover the creation of a core training program for climbers, the significance of core training for climbing performance, and core training progressions. They also introduce the Samsara MTN Training program, an online video-based workout program for climbers.
Jan 15, 2020 • 1h 12min
TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
Dec 18, 2019 • 1h 5min
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength.
Dec 5, 2019 • 1h 15min
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
Nov 27, 2019 • 1h 8min
Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.
Nov 22, 2019 • 1h 15min
TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
Kris Hampton, climbing coach, shares 6 movement drills to improve climbing. They discuss the balance between work and climbing, self-awareness, exploring new techniques, and specific movement drills like Deadstops. They highlight the importance of pace and weight in climbing, incorporating movement drills into climbing sessions, and the value of experimentation and playfulness in climbing.
Oct 30, 2019 • 1h 40min
TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus
Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.
