The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Jun 16, 2020 • 50min
TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Long Break
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustrations about being weak to reassessing goals.
Jun 2, 2020 • 58min
TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers
Dr. Tyler Nelson discusses the role of stretching for climbers and the different types of stretching interventions. He emphasizes the importance of improving range of motion in the shoulders and personalized interventions based on an athlete's morphology. The podcast also explores the importance of education and strength training for tendon injuries.
May 4, 2020 • 1h 22min
TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond
Topics include personalized food strategies for athletes, getting enough protein on a plant-based diet, discussion on supplementation for climbers during quarantine, supplementation for individual needs, intermittent fasting benefits and considerations, nutrition for women climbers, and a wrap-up with contact information and class announcement.
Apr 9, 2020 • 1h 18min
TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home
In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Mar 24, 2020 • 1h 26min
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do.
Mar 12, 2020 • 1h 18min
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.
Feb 26, 2020 • 1h 22min
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.
Feb 6, 2020 • 1h 18min
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.
4 snips
Jan 22, 2020 • 1h 20min
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
Zahan Billimoria, coach, climber, and mountain guide, discusses the importance of core training for climbing and shares his bodyweight core training program. They cover the creation of a core training program for climbers, the significance of core training for climbing performance, and core training progressions. They also introduce the Samsara MTN Training program, an online video-based workout program for climbers.
Jan 15, 2020 • 1h 12min
TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
