

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books

May 30, 2018 • 52min
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers

May 2, 2018 • 1h 9min
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.

Apr 25, 2018 • 56min
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers
Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective.

Apr 18, 2018 • 1h 10min
TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain

Apr 11, 2018 • 1h 20min
TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries

Mar 28, 2018 • 1h 16min
TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie’s Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

Mar 21, 2018 • 1h 8min
TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA’s, Her Weight, and Nutrition

Mar 15, 2018 • 57min
TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should

Mar 7, 2018 • 23min
Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols

Mar 1, 2018 • 1h 15min