

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books

Mar 1, 2018 • 1h 15min
TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst

Jan 25, 2018 • 1h 4min
TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals

Jan 10, 2018 • 1h 13min
TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment.

Dec 14, 2017 • 1h 8min
TBP 094 :: Esther Smith - Treating Knee and Hip Injuries in Climbers
This interview is all about hip and knee injuries. We talk about the most common hip and knee injuries among climbers, why we get them, what they feel like, how to get a proper diagnosis, and mostly… how to make the injuries go away.

Nov 16, 2017 • 1h 11min
TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes
Matt Pincus is a good friend of mine and he's my right hand man at TrainingBeta. He's basically the person who keeps this website running. He manages and writes the blog, he manages our social media presence, and he's added Online Climbing Trainer to his resume.
Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming, and currently living in his van on the road. He’s climbed up to 5.14a and V12 and is constantly changing and tweaking the ways he trains as he learns new things. Because of his success with his own training and climbing, he began training others. Matt’s ability to listen to people’s needs, his attention to detail, and his keen interest in all things training contribute to his ability to create effective training plans for his clients.
I wanted to talk with him about how he approaches training people online, as well as his own climbing and training. If you're interested in training with Matt after listening to this interview, you can sign up to work with him at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.

Oct 19, 2017 • 1h 13min
TBP 092 :: Dr. Jared Vagy’s 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about his 4-step pyramid for healing climbing injuries like shoulder impingement, rotator cuff strain, and neck strain.

Oct 5, 2017 • 1h 15min
TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us

Sep 29, 2017 • 1h 13min
TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports

Sep 21, 2017 • 1h 1min
TBP 089 :: Paige Claassen on What It Took to Send 5.14c

Sep 11, 2017 • 1h 6min