The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries

Dec 13, 2018
Guest
Jared Vagy
Dr. Jared Vagy, physical therapist, discusses healing finger injuries in climbers using the Rock Rehab Pyramid. Topics include finger pulley sprains, hybrid programs in physical therapy, finger flexor strains, eccentric training, visual appearance of finger injuries, training finger extensors and flexors, optimal time frame for finger injury rehab, centralized pain, and the role of food and protein in healing injuries.
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Episode notes
1
Introduction
00:00 • 3min
2
Hybrid Program in Physical Therapy and Online Education
02:59 • 8min
3
Finger Injuries in Climbers
10:40 • 22min
4
Understanding and Treating Finger Injuries in Climbers
32:38 • 18min
5
Visual Appearance of Finger Injuries and Climbing Analogies
50:42 • 2min
6
Training Finger Extensors and Flexors for Healing Finger Injuries
52:24 • 23min
7
Optimal Time Frame for Finger Injury Rehabilitation
01:15:54 • 12min
8
Centralized Pain and the Brain
01:27:53 • 8min
9
Appreciation for Dr. Jared Vagy and Information on Training Beta's Blog, Online Training, and Nutrition Services
01:35:41 • 5min
10
The Role of Food and Protein in Healing Injuries
01:40:32 • 2min