
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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Optimal Time Frame for Finger Injury Rehabilitation
The speaker discusses the recommended time frame for loading and strengthening finger injuries, particularly grade two sprains. They emphasize waiting two months before starting to load the fingers on a hangboard, as strength gains don't occur until the six to eight week stage of healing. The chapter also explores various protocols for finger injury rehab and emphasizes the importance of being conservative to avoid further injury.
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