The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubertNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style(00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’(01:18:28) – Speed training(01:20:02) – Recovery(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it(01:25:48) – Greedy(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!Jon’s Original Episode:EP 50: Jon CardwellReferences:Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+EP 169: Scott JohnstonTraining for the Uphill Athlete (book)Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston,  and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’(00:35:53) – Constantly learning(00:40:42) – More about his training(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?(01:07:12) – Wrap up

Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to discuss finger strength and injury prevention in climbing. They cover topics such as warm-up routines, breakfast choices, using mirrored boards, different finger training methods, evaluating training, building capacity, avoiding finger injuries, changing opinions, training routines in Waco, the effectiveness of the campus board, the upcoming PCC summit, physiological changes in climbing, finding balance in finger training, effective training methods, testing and tracking progress, and trying new exercises.

Renowned trad climber James Pearson discusses a 15-year-old controversy, proposing the mythical grade of E12, his journey after meeting his wife Caroline, climbing his first 9a, the importance of grading 'Bon Voyage', his fears about becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and more in this entertaining podcast.

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutouNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training(00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests(00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology(00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing(00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training(00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach(00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?(00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing(00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music(00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates(00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris(00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?(00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture(00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing(01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions(01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy(01:10:15) – Meditation and breath(01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS(01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup(01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing(01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?(01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers(01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson(01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?(01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions(01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training(01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention(01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game(01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Will Anglin and Matt Jones provide clear and in-depth guidance for climbers at all levels. They discuss topics such as the four stages of competence in climbing, off-wall interventions for beginners, building strength and skill, analyzing falls and learning from mistakes, attention to detail, proper skin care, strength training, movement progressions, and the growth and development of climbers. This episode is a gold mine for anyone looking to progress their climbing skills.

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned to climbing and sent his first V10 and V11. We talked about his accident, getting a full knee replacement, how he made a full recovery, his incredible wife Katie, why he swims four times per week, treating yourself like you have the V17 gene, taking responsibility for your life, the interplay of luck and hard work, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/protectBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/travis-tameiraoNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:07:14 – Having a son at 19, semi-pro boxing and bartending to make ends meet, and getting into climbing0:13:31 – Maintaining his own identity once he became a dad0:15:40 – Getting obsessed with climbing, and being reckless out of ignorance0:24:51 – The full story of Travis’ accident on August 13th, 20180:35:20 – Getting his knee reconstructed in December 2019, and losing his Tibial Plateau0:38:31 – The possibility of amputation, and choosing an experimental procedure0:44:18 – Living in constant pain, surgery as a trauma, and holding onto hope0:47:21 – Having a full knee replacement, and feeling like he was given a death sentence0:49:52 – The limitations of Western medicine0:51:55 – Waking up without pain0:53:56 – The gift of walking, and reclaiming his life0:56:55 – Working on regaining his range of motion, and reconnecting with climbing1:05:05 – Getting hurt again sport climbing in Rumney1:09:39 – Losing friends and community during his recovery, and proposing to his wife Katie1:17:40 – The first time he asked Katie out1:20:57 – Gratitude for Katie, and being with a partner through the hard times1:23:41 – Hiking around Mont Blanc on their honeymoon1:26:39 – Focusing on work while he was recovering, and appreciation for the support1:27:40 – Regaining his full range of motion, and climbing his first V10 outside1:31:42 – Mr. Miyagi and the pistol squat1:33:04 – Climbing his first V11, leaving areas better than you found them, and finding boulders in Rhode Island1:36:22 – “Don’t get injured”, learning how to fall, and being unsure of the takeaway1:38:33 – The guy in the wheelchair, and wondering if he is blowing his second chance1:43:01 – Choosing to live a rich and passionate life, the fountain of youth, and facing mortality1:48:10 – A backlog of games and books, and wanting to live forever1:54:19 – Accepting support from Katie, hard conversations, and the transition in their relationship after his recovery2:03:08 – Mothers and empty nests, Travis’ parents relationship, and the feeling of firsts2:07:45 – What climbing means to Travis now, and why Travis swims 4 days per week2:10:46 – Long-term climbing goals, and sponsoring himself2:14:43 – Growing up a block away from his wife, and all of the things climbing has brought him2:17:24 – Treating yourself like you have the V17 gene2:19:15 – How Travis made a full recovery when many others didn’t, drawing inspiration from anime, and being the main character in your own story2:26:43 – Taking the wheel, and advocating for yourself2:32:14 – Sharing his story, and being a resource2:36:46 – Kind words about the podcast2:39:58 – Luck and hard work2:42:26 – More kind words2:45:32 – Iontophoresis2:47:01 – Wrap up and Travis’ phone number

Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest competition she has ever done, how to use nerves to focus and thrive, training for Nationals, praising effort, her fueling strategy, gaining weight to be more powerful, Alex Johnson’s hype shirt, balancing training with fueling and mental health, choosing good over perfect, upcoming goals, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanza-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:04:40 – Recovery from her foot surgery, and sweeping the National Championships in Boise Idaho0:07:05 – Trying a new approach with fueling and training0:08:17 – A message about Melina from Tyson Schoene0:09:55 – Why Nationals was the hardest competition Melina has ever done, and finding flow in the sport climbing final0:16:00 – Training primarily for bouldering, and proving to herself that she is a better climber than before0:21:39 – The limit is higher when you focus on getting stronger vs. lighter0:23:28 – The nerves and joy of competitions, and a weight lifted0:29:10 – Training for lead and bouldering at the same time, and her training phases before Nationals0:34:51 – How she won lead despite her lack of power endurance after getting covid, and the mental side of competition0:37:11 – Praising her effort more than her performance0:41:21 – Effort is trainable0:42:48 – How Melina’s fueling strategy has changed, eating more carbs on comp days, and Sour Patch Kids0:51:13 – Gaining weight to be more powerful0:54:06 – What Melina does when she has dark thoughts around eating, and how to know when you’re “overtraining”0:58:51 – Knowing when to take more rest vs. put your head down and do the work1:01:51 – Doing every part of your training for a reason1:06:30 – “You just have to go to win.”1:10:55 – Coming out last in finals, and pressure as a privilege1:13:46 – Alex Johnson’s shirt1:16:03 – Balancing training, fueling, and mental health, and choosing good over perfect1:19:01 – What Melina would tell others who struggle with eating disorders1:22:07 – The false promise of success, achieving your goals while being true to who you are, carrying guilt, and giving each other permission to be imperfect1:27:37 – Surrounding yourself with people who love you unconditionally1:29:55 – Melina’s goals1:33:11 – Melina’s thoughts on the Paris Olympics, and the 2028 Olympic games1:35:56 – Thanks to Melina for bringing us along on her journey1:37:16 – Check out this week’s Patreon bonus episode for more fun facts with Melina!

Pete Whittaker, one of the best crack climbers, discusses his current Moab trip, training for Crown Royale 9a, skills needed for cutting-edge cracks, improving at ring locks, the futuristic Crucifix Project, and trips with Tom Randall.

Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.Subscribe to Matt’s YouTube Channel!youtube.com/@MattSegalOfficialBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 20170:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals0:57:10 – Try hard0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan1:22:02 – Tough gainer1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with1:32:47 – Wrap up