The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau
(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip
(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych
(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard
(00:15:22) – Sleep
(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson
(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?
(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles
(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles
(00:27:34) – Deloads
(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body
(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead
(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs
(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”
(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor
(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing
(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips
(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12
(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15
(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage
(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica
(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?
(01:14:14) – Training on the replica
(01:22:21) – How to train on your project
(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?
(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip
(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles
(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?
(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?
(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17
(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit
(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar
(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps
(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit
(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders
(01:59:08) – Imposing demands
(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!