The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Renowned trad climber James Pearson discusses a 15-year-old controversy, proposing the mythical grade of E12, his journey after meeting his wife Caroline, climbing his first 9a, the importance of grading 'Bon Voyage', his fears about becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and more in this entertaining podcast.

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutouNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training(00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests(00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology(00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing(00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training(00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach(00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?(00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing(00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music(00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates(00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris(00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?(00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture(00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing(01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions(01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy(01:10:15) – Meditation and breath(01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS(01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup(01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing(01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?(01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers(01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson(01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?(01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions(01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training(01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention(01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game(01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Will Anglin and Matt Jones provide clear and in-depth guidance for climbers at all levels. They discuss topics such as the four stages of competence in climbing, off-wall interventions for beginners, building strength and skill, analyzing falls and learning from mistakes, attention to detail, proper skin care, strength training, movement progressions, and the growth and development of climbers. This episode is a gold mine for anyone looking to progress their climbing skills.

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned to climbing and sent his first V10 and V11. We talked about his accident, getting a full knee replacement, how he made a full recovery, his incredible wife Katie, why he swims four times per week, treating yourself like you have the V17 gene, taking responsibility for your life, the interplay of luck and hard work, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/protectBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/travis-tameiraoNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:07:14 – Having a son at 19, semi-pro boxing and bartending to make ends meet, and getting into climbing0:13:31 – Maintaining his own identity once he became a dad0:15:40 – Getting obsessed with climbing, and being reckless out of ignorance0:24:51 – The full story of Travis’ accident on August 13th, 20180:35:20 – Getting his knee reconstructed in December 2019, and losing his Tibial Plateau0:38:31 – The possibility of amputation, and choosing an experimental procedure0:44:18 – Living in constant pain, surgery as a trauma, and holding onto hope0:47:21 – Having a full knee replacement, and feeling like he was given a death sentence0:49:52 – The limitations of Western medicine0:51:55 – Waking up without pain0:53:56 – The gift of walking, and reclaiming his life0:56:55 – Working on regaining his range of motion, and reconnecting with climbing1:05:05 – Getting hurt again sport climbing in Rumney1:09:39 – Losing friends and community during his recovery, and proposing to his wife Katie1:17:40 – The first time he asked Katie out1:20:57 – Gratitude for Katie, and being with a partner through the hard times1:23:41 – Hiking around Mont Blanc on their honeymoon1:26:39 – Focusing on work while he was recovering, and appreciation for the support1:27:40 – Regaining his full range of motion, and climbing his first V10 outside1:31:42 – Mr. Miyagi and the pistol squat1:33:04 – Climbing his first V11, leaving areas better than you found them, and finding boulders in Rhode Island1:36:22 – “Don’t get injured”, learning how to fall, and being unsure of the takeaway1:38:33 – The guy in the wheelchair, and wondering if he is blowing his second chance1:43:01 – Choosing to live a rich and passionate life, the fountain of youth, and facing mortality1:48:10 – A backlog of games and books, and wanting to live forever1:54:19 – Accepting support from Katie, hard conversations, and the transition in their relationship after his recovery2:03:08 – Mothers and empty nests, Travis’ parents relationship, and the feeling of firsts2:07:45 – What climbing means to Travis now, and why Travis swims 4 days per week2:10:46 – Long-term climbing goals, and sponsoring himself2:14:43 – Growing up a block away from his wife, and all of the things climbing has brought him2:17:24 – Treating yourself like you have the V17 gene2:19:15 – How Travis made a full recovery when many others didn’t, drawing inspiration from anime, and being the main character in your own story2:26:43 – Taking the wheel, and advocating for yourself2:32:14 – Sharing his story, and being a resource2:36:46 – Kind words about the podcast2:39:58 – Luck and hard work2:42:26 – More kind words2:45:32 – Iontophoresis2:47:01 – Wrap up and Travis’ phone number

Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest competition she has ever done, how to use nerves to focus and thrive, training for Nationals, praising effort, her fueling strategy, gaining weight to be more powerful, Alex Johnson’s hype shirt, balancing training with fueling and mental health, choosing good over perfect, upcoming goals, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanza-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:04:40 – Recovery from her foot surgery, and sweeping the National Championships in Boise Idaho0:07:05 – Trying a new approach with fueling and training0:08:17 – A message about Melina from Tyson Schoene0:09:55 – Why Nationals was the hardest competition Melina has ever done, and finding flow in the sport climbing final0:16:00 – Training primarily for bouldering, and proving to herself that she is a better climber than before0:21:39 – The limit is higher when you focus on getting stronger vs. lighter0:23:28 – The nerves and joy of competitions, and a weight lifted0:29:10 – Training for lead and bouldering at the same time, and her training phases before Nationals0:34:51 – How she won lead despite her lack of power endurance after getting covid, and the mental side of competition0:37:11 – Praising her effort more than her performance0:41:21 – Effort is trainable0:42:48 – How Melina’s fueling strategy has changed, eating more carbs on comp days, and Sour Patch Kids0:51:13 – Gaining weight to be more powerful0:54:06 – What Melina does when she has dark thoughts around eating, and how to know when you’re “overtraining”0:58:51 – Knowing when to take more rest vs. put your head down and do the work1:01:51 – Doing every part of your training for a reason1:06:30 – “You just have to go to win.”1:10:55 – Coming out last in finals, and pressure as a privilege1:13:46 – Alex Johnson’s shirt1:16:03 – Balancing training, fueling, and mental health, and choosing good over perfect1:19:01 – What Melina would tell others who struggle with eating disorders1:22:07 – The false promise of success, achieving your goals while being true to who you are, carrying guilt, and giving each other permission to be imperfect1:27:37 – Surrounding yourself with people who love you unconditionally1:29:55 – Melina’s goals1:33:11 – Melina’s thoughts on the Paris Olympics, and the 2028 Olympic games1:35:56 – Thanks to Melina for bringing us along on her journey1:37:16 – Check out this week’s Patreon bonus episode for more fun facts with Melina!

Pete Whittaker, one of the best crack climbers, discusses his current Moab trip, training for Crown Royale 9a, skills needed for cutting-edge cracks, improving at ring locks, the futuristic Crucifix Project, and trips with Tom Randall.

Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.Subscribe to Matt’s YouTube Channel!youtube.com/@MattSegalOfficialBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 20170:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals0:57:10 – Try hard0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan1:22:02 – Tough gainer1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with1:32:47 – Wrap up

Will Anglin, expert boulderer and founder of Tension Climbing, discusses key principles of climbing hard, the most common confusion points about training, treating climbing like baseball, the evolution of Tension, the detail-oriented process of building the Tension Board 2 (TB2), and their harrowing experience of getting lost and stranded while climbing in the Black Canyon.

Mat Wright has quickly established himself as one of the best trad climbers in Britain and is a world-class all-rounder having climbed E11, 5.14c, and V15. We talked about his humble beginnings in low-income government housing, teaching himself how to rope solo as a teenager, reaching V13 and 5.14c in his first three years of climbing, pivoting to hardcore trad climbing, his upcoming film in the Brit Rock Film Tour, and much more!Get Your Tickets for Brit Rock! (Streaming Nov 9-13)britrockfilmtour.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wrightNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:35 – Why Mat wears sunglasses when he climbs0:07:02 – Mat’s difficult upbringing, and growing up in a council estate (low-income government housing)0:11:41 – Meeting his dad at 13 and moving in with him, and how Mat got himself into rock climbing0:15:47 – Building a board in his mom’s back garden, and sending 8c+ and 8B (5.14c and V13) within his first 3 years of climbing0:17:21 – What climbing brought to Mat’s life0:19:51 – Neil Gresham’s masterclass videos, and setting his eyes on Hubble0:23:13 – Sending Hubble, and the negative side of punching the clock on projects0:29:39 – Being optimistic, and why Mat resonates with hard scary trad climbing0:32:39 – The line between optimism vs. recklessness0:35:17 – How Mat “caught up” with his education, and the appeal of climbing for someone with a busy mind0:39:39 – Mat’s partner Anna Taylor, and her role in The House of the Gods film (I said Argentina but it was in Venezuela)0:41:37 – Coasteering with Anna0:45:40 – Wildlife, nerding out, and how he and Anna relax0:47:28 – Living in a van, fingerboarding, and going with the flow with his climbing0:49:25 – Sprinting toward a goal, and spending 60-70% of his time chilling0:54:34 – What Mat’s training looked like early on, how it’s evolved over time, and addressing specific weaknesses0:57:34 – Understanding your climbing pace, and the dance of sport climbing1:00:24 – How Mat guides his clients with their climbing pace1:06:19 – Our tendance to overthink things, and not believe in ourselves1:08:29 – The power of specific goals, and asking yourself what you really want to get out of climbing1:12:35 – Balancing short-term and long-term goals1:16:51 – How to get coaching from Mat1:18:21 – Climbing his first V15 shortly after Hubble, and pivoting to trad and sending Lexicon E111:23:03 – The reaction to him sending Lexicon1:26:27 – Feeling desensitized to exposure, and early free soloing1:28:24 – The effect that online comments have on real people1:32:31 – Our brains’ negative bias, and trolling as an outlet for frustration1:35:21 – Anna’s harassment, and Mat’s controversial reputation1:40:29 – What happens when you respond to negative comments with kindness1:42:36 – Stepping into a protective role for his partner, and losing his sponsors1:44:29 – Mat as a Berghaus athlete1:49:19 – Mat’s film ‘Hard Git’ in the upcoming Brit Rock Film Tour1:55:49 – A deep dive into Mat’s FA of Magical Thinking E10, and finding flow on the send2:01:13 – Mat’s FA of Black Thistle E10, and converting E grades to the American YDS grades2:04:04 – The animalistic nature of trad, why the Brits don’t bolt everything, and the American healthcare system2:07:35 – Challenge vs. difficulty2:10:26 – James Pearson as the best trad climber in the world, and Mat’s kinship to Dave MacLeod2:12:25 – Mat and I each talk about our experiences trying the keto diet2:16:18 – I recap my story with disordered eating and recovery, and Mat describes his experience with burnout after Hubble2:22:05 – What happened with Rhapsody, and his thoughts on returning2:27:21 – Mat’s rope solo setup2:29:43 – Go-to music2:30:15 – Mat’s dream climbing expedition, the adventure and fun of climbing, and sending Gaia E82:34:46 – Think more about yourself and less about other people2:35:44 – Cycle touring, and Mat’s thoughts on taking long breaks from climbing2:42:36 – Where to connect with Mat, and details about the upcoming Brit Rock Film Tour

Alex Biale is an elite boulderer based in CO. We talked about his family legacy of bootlegging wine in Napa Valley, how he got into climbing, his legendary training with Jon Glassberg, pushing himself to the breaking point to send V14, seriously injuring his knee, working with Ollie Torr to overhaul his style and become stronger than ever, the keys to a balanced and happy life, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bialeNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:34 – Steak and wine0:06:16 – Alex’s connection to the Jon Glassberg and Ollie Torr episodes0:07:37 – Alex’s upbringing in Napa, his family legacy of bootlegging wine, and the origin story of Black Chicken0:12:21 – Working in the vineyard as a kid, and growing up surrounded by family0:15:36 – Alex’s dad, and doing family backpacking trips to Tahoe0:20:02 – Getting into climbing0:21:59 – Parallels to the Josh Champion episode, looking up to CA climbers, getting into highballing, and putting V13 and V1 4 on a pedestal0:31:01 – Training with Jon Glassberg0:35:11 – Sending Mind to Motion V14, breaking from the training, and feeling lost after achieving his goal0:39:59 – Climbing classic V8s in Leavenworth, rediscovering his love for climbing, and adopting a beginners mindset0:47:58 – History, aesthetics, the amount of climbing in CO, and redefining challenge0:51:56 – Desiring to become a well-rounded climber0:58:23 – What gets people stuck, and being honest about what you want from climbing1:03:20 – Combining strengths and weaknesses1:09:32 – The perfect storm of training with Jon1:13:20 – Playing the long game, and drawing inspiration from Martin Keller1:17:33 – Why you shouldn’t train like a pro climber (unless you’re a pro climber)1:22:50 – The advice Alex got from Will Anglin, and climbing with rules1:34:42 – Why Alex hired Ollie Torr to coach him1:45:43 – What’s different about training with Ollie on a principle level1:52:24 – Injurying his knee, and transforming his climbing style2:00:26 – The keys to staying consistent with climbing and training, and the value of a spray wall2:16:12 – The keys to staying on top of things at work, and Alex’s business ventures2:23:47 – Carrying a load, hitting rock bottom, and adding value2:31:26 – The keys to maintaining a healthy relationship2:37:59 – Wrap up, and very kind words from Alex about the podcast