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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

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4 snips
Aug 14, 2023 • 2h 36min

EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends

Guests Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler discuss their recent climbing trip to Rocklands, board training, favorite first ascents, and ultimate dream climbs. They also talk about their climbing achievements, experiences in different locations, and funny incidents. The speakers share stories of their early climbing experiences and discuss sponsorship opportunities in climbing. They highlight the benefits of therapy and discuss their use of BetterHelp. They also mention Rumple products and their experiences with various boulder problems. The chapter ends with a discussion about their lifetime climbing goals and inspirations.
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Aug 7, 2023 • 2h 10min

EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.Troy's Video:Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAustin's Previous Episode:EP 97: Austin HoytShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryceNuggets:0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.”0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ”1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip1:57:28 – Airstar getting action1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North2:01:00 – Near misses
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12 snips
Jul 31, 2023 • 2h 53min

EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”

Cat Runner is the winner of the HBO show The Climb. Cat sat down with me and Ethan Pringle at our cabin here in Rocklands to talk about what his life has looked like after The Climb, his experience filming the show, the stereotypical trans narrative in the media, why he chooses to be visible, his ungendered childhood, gender roles in sports, why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, dealing with trolls, owning your accomplishments, building the Queer Climber’s Network, Rocklands highlights, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/cat-runnerNuggets:0:04:44 – Cat’s tea situation0:07:53 – Ethan’s coffee addiction, and why he doesn’t drink it before doing something scary0:11:20 – The Queer Climbers’ Network0:16:15 – Life after winning The Climb0:22:23 – Finding community through climbing, and helping others find that too0:25:37 – Cat’s experience filming and watching the show0:28:54 – Being trans as part of Cat’s identity, and how that came across in the show0:30:38 – More behind the scenes, and what the climbing experience was like on the show0:32:15 – Meeting Jason Mamoa, and meme accounts0:34:14 – The reaction to the show, and getting messages from trans kids and their parents0:36:35 – The stereotypical trans narrative in the media, and pushing people into the role of spokesperson0:39:22 – Choosing to be visible, being proud of being trans, and seeing a future0:42:36 – Being who he needed when he was younger, and trying to change one person’s world0:44:14 – What Cat would have benefitted from as a kid, experiencing severe depression, and knowing he’s a part of the future0:46:36 – Reading The Alchemist, and having intimate connections with individual people0:51:43 – Cat’s childhood, transitioning within the binary, and how his gender identity has evolved0:58:14 – Connecting with he/him pronouns1:00:36 – Why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, trolls, and the reaction to my video clip with Alayna Joy about climbing as a queer space1:07:30 – Why Cat is particular about who he climbs with1:10:28 – The trolliest of troll questions1:11:16 – People’s insecurities, and “we’re all performing”1:15:03 – Knowing when to give your energy to people, and leading with respect1:19:36 – “Trans people are humans”, and the stat that 80% of Americans have never met a person they know to be trans1:22:00 – An issue of isolation and ignorance1:25:16 – Hopeful conversations, anti-trans legislation, and false information about gender-affirming care1:27:56 – Cat’s parents1:31:50 – Gender roles and sports, and the gender gap in climbing1:38:25 – Height in climbing, the subjectivity of grades, and why outdoor rock climbing is so cool1:43:49 – Rapid Fire: Best decision1:44:19 – Rapid Fire: Most proud of1:49:09 – Rapid Fire: What frustrates you2:01:00 – Taking responsibility2:03:28 – “Take! Falling!”2:05:02 – Rapid Fire: Favorite rock type2:07:46 – Rapid Fire: Ultimate dream climb2:15:36 – Rapid Fire: Favorite send reward2:17:04 – Rapid Fire: Go-to climbing shoes2:23:00 – Rapid Fire: Desert Island DVD2:25:31 – Rapid Fire: Favorite album for a long drive2:28:49 – The one thing Cat wants people to know about trans stuff2:31:29 – Taking representation seriously, and how sharing human stories cracks people open2:38:17 – Doing your best, and sharing information with your circle2:44:30 – Cat’s ankle injury, and his tick list from Rocklands
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4 snips
Jul 27, 2023 • 38min

Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don’t miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:49:54.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingOllie’s Original Episode:EP 153: Ollie Torr
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11 snips
Jul 24, 2023 • 2h 27min

EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad

Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast! We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habits that Ethan does every day, taking your time while executing hard moves, adjusting on holds, and Ethan talked about his dad’s life after his stroke, his final weeks, and his passing on November 6, 2022.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasEthan’s Other Episodes:EP 21: Ethan Pringle (Jun 2020)Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle (Oct 2020)EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) (Nov 2020)A Call from Ethan (Jul 2021)Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ethan-pringle-returnsNuggets:0:03:49 – Princess Pringle0:06:13 – Rocklands Trip update0:11:24 – Feeling fit for bouldering after sport climbing0:14:14 – Ethan’s haphazard approach, and following the psych0:20:04 – Monkey Wedding (8C/V15)0:21:43 – Being surprised at the tactics of some really strong climbers0:24:03 – Rapid firing dynamic moves0:26:09 – The style of climbing in Rocklands0:32:37 – Bonus cruxes and nemesis rigs (Black Mango Chutney and Dangle)0:40:20 – Munchy holds0:41:12 – Micromanaging holds0:44:56 – Pause0:45:57 – Ethan-ism #1: Rolling out0:48:33 – Ethan-ism #2: Drinking lots of water0:51:03 – The lacrosse ball, and lubricated tendons0:54:00 – The injurious style of Rocklands0:55:54 – Ethan-ism #3: “Take your time.”1:03:12 – Perfectionism and being detail oriented, and accessing beast mode1:07:12 – Wanting moves to feel good, and committing when they’re not1:08:39 – More about the style in Rocklands, and funky moves1:10:02 – Adjusting on holds, and Adam Ondra on Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura1:15:18 – His dad’s stroke1:20:12 – Ethan’s sleeping injury1:26:08 – His dad’s quality of life in the final years of his life1:33:10 – Honoring his dad, which parts of Ethan feel most like him, and how his dad didn’t how to process and talk about feelings1:39:22 – How Ethan developed his emotional intelligence, and giving space to other people’s thoughts and feelings1:44:21 – A shared life philosophy1:47:58 – The loniless of thinking your inner messiness isn’t ok1:49:11 – What made Ethan feel the best when his dad passed away1:53:46 – His dad’s passing on November 6th, 20222:03:19 – Living2:06:22 – Thinking about the future2:10:10 – Goals and evolution2:12:39 – Inspiration, the unpleasant nature of hard rock climbing, and Seb on Bibliographie2:16:59 – Goals for the rest of the Rocklands trip2:19:07 – Plans to do trip updates, and my first two weeks in Rocklands2:22:57 – Indoor camping vibes, and plans for the podcast
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5 snips
Jul 17, 2023 • 1h 38min

EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life

Tiba Vroom is a Dutch professional climber and cofounder of Wildflower Climbing Gym. We talked about the pressure that comes with early success, her first trip to Magic Wood and sending Riverbed 8B, confronting fear of failure, separating self-worth from performance, being the 8, starting a non-profit gym in the Netherlands, taking responsibility for your life, dream climbs in Fontainebleau, and more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tiba-vroomNuggets:0:02:28 – Tiba’s first tattoo, and her first season in Magic Wood0:05:47 – Climbing as a mirror, and learning to confront the deeper parts of herself0:07:30 – Projecting Riverbed 8B, and confronting fear of failure0:12:59 – Tiba’s introduction to climbing, performance pressure, and expecting to be the best0:17:08 – We only hear the success stories0:19:38 – Working through fear of failure, mental training, and separating self-worth from performance0:24:34 – Consciousness, positivity, personal development, and power0:25:48 – The 6, the 8, and the 100:28:30 – Why it doesn’t make sense for most of us to compare ourselves to the best climbers in the world, and Tiba’s experience competing in her first World Cup0:31:16 – Tiba’s current feelings about competitions0:32:48 – How to prepare for an outdoor bouldering trip in the gym0:40:45 – Planning trips around the weather, and drying holds on Octopussy with Tiba0:42:19 – Stretching for 2+ months to be able to try a heal hook on her project0:49:40 – The gym climbing culture in the Netherlands, and starting Wildflower Climbing came to be0:53:10 – Creating a space for high-performance climbing that is welcoming to a wide diversity of people0:56:31 – Having a non-profit gym1:03:32 – Question from Lizzie: What is it like owning a gym in the Netherlands where gym ownership is fairly male-dominated?1:05:15 – Tiba’s favorite things to teach1:08:25 – A recent breakthrough1:09:22 – What she wishes she had known before building the gym1:10:49 – What excites Tiba about the climbing scene right now1:12:24 – How sports highlight social issues1:14:06 – Women who have inspired Tiba1:16:16 – Taking responsibility for your life, and the ultimate climbing goal1:19:56 – What Tiba is working on in her climbing, and working on being the 81:21:28 – Summer training and projects1:22:18 – “The world can use more conscious people.”1:28:04 – My birthday, and the Women’s Bouldering Festival in Font1:30:49 – How to connect with Tiba, and her new podcast
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Jul 15, 2023 • 56min

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Dave MacLeod is back on the podcast! We talked about lessons from his latest diet experiments, his motivation for only eating Mcdonald's patties for two months, the effects that nutrition has on mental health, common nutrient deficiencies, LDL cholesterol and cardiovascular risk, his favorite tea, what he learned from doing the Lattice Assessment with Ollie Torr, his goal to climb 9a+ sport, why he no longer travels abroad, setting finger strength PRs after 18+ years of hangboarding, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:13:42.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingDave’s Other Episodes:EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1)EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2)
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Jul 10, 2023 • 1h 56min

EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes

Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip,  fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make. Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returnsNuggets:0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself0:50:24 – Bad days happen0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap1:51:02 – Wrap up
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11 snips
Jul 5, 2023 • 2h 41min

EP 175: Ady Wright — The Pressure of Opportunity, Acts of Rebellion, and Eating Oreos for Breakfast

Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ady-wrightNuggets:0:03:56 – Ady’s breakfast, and serendipitous timing0:05:56 – Ady’s first vacation, and how an outdoor climbing trip fuels routesetting0:13:04 – Her head setter Ryan, and earning her stripes0:18:16 – Learning to set above her level, the complexity of grades, and setting boulders vs. routes0:24:32 – Studying veterinary science, wanting to be a zoo veterinarian, and pivoting to be a full-time climber0:33:03 – Being the first in her family to do many things0:36:58 – Going camping for the first time, and a reminder of how recent slavery was in this country0:40:56 – Going with the flow, and everything in moderation0:44:45 – The benefits of meal prepping0:46:02 – Being hard on herself, and sharing experiences with people that look like her0:49:53 – My conversation with Brittany Leavitt, travel safety, and where the feeling of not doing enough comes from0:54:24 – The pressure that comes with opportunity0:59:22 – Losing her grandmother to cancer, and crying for the things she didn’t get to have1:01:01 – The influence Ady hopes to have on the routesetting industry, and how being cautious has saved her1:06:06 – Privilege layers, and needing to talk with people to actually know them1:09:29 – Writing novels and producing music1:10:57 – Mom1:19:00 – A question from Marie-Louise: When Ady climbs, is she in her body or is it more of an out-of-body experience?1:24:11 – Who inspires Ady in climbing and routesetting1:28:17 – Ady’s goal to make routsetting more accessible1:31:20 – Ady’s climbing goals, and her style1:34:32 – Being intimidated by overhangs1:35:57 – Immersing in a specific style1:37:40 – Lifting weights, and the 3 pieces of advice Ady got from Tyson Schoene1:41:15 – The exercise that helped Ady with her elbow tendonitis1:46:50 – Gymnast tension, and the yin and yang of climbing1:48:26 – PT Day, splits, and recovery1:52:06 – “It’s really expensive to be a great athlete”, and running from coyotes1:54:23 – Thoughts on sponsorship1:58:08 – Stories of walking in New York City2:01:00 – Being in the shelter system for a year2:06:38 – Loving most of New York2:09:18 – What frustrates Ady2:13:39 – Feeling hopeful and falling in love with people2:17:07 – Skateboarding2:19:50 – Getting mentorship from Sam Elias, and learning from each climb2:24:47 – Practice makes better2:29:38 – Believe and validate2:32:58 – The clubhouse
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Jun 26, 2023 • 2h 31min

EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind

Bernd Zangerl a bouldering legend from Austria. We talked about his early climbing and making the 2nd ascent of Dreamtime, some of his proudest FAs, how he recovered from a career-ending injury in 2016, his mindset for highballs, meditation and the power of the mind, believing in love, our impact as climbers, sustainability, and discovering world-class bouldering in the Himalayas.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bernd-zangerlNuggets:0:04:02 – Where we each are in the world, and Bernd’s travels to the US0:05:15 – Magic Wood, and the impact climbers have on the environment0:08:02 – How to pronounce Bernd’s name0:08:53 – Bernd’s background in climbing, a near miss in the mountains, and falling in love with bouldering0:13:21 – The impossibility and culture of bouldering0:15:00 – “Bouldering is the kindergarten, but also the pinnacle of climbing.”0:16:50 – Dreamtime (8C), and learning about hard boulders by reading magazines0:21:25 – Reducing boulders to each single move, and holding positions for training0:24:41 – The bouldering culture in the early 2000s0:27:29 – Finding the most pure motivation in finding and developing new boulders0:29:22 – Spending eight years and 1000+ tries to send First Try (8B+)0:34:02 – What he learned from First Try0:38:56 – Nalle on Burden of Dreams, and the randomness of bouldering0:39:43 – Sending La Proue (8B) in Cresciano, and lightness of the heart0:41:20 – Openness of the heart, Buddhism, and believing in love and the good things of life0:42:57 – Bernd’s childhood, and why traveling is important to him0:44:29 – Traveling with Fred Nicole to Hueco Tanks and Rocklands0:48:00 – Feeling and knowing0:49:41 – Developing boulders in the Himalayas, and finding Rakchham0:57:17 – Why Bernd decided to publish a film about Rakchham, and what it’s like to travel there1:04:06 – Sustainability1:08:39 – How internet changed traveling1:10:34 – Disconnecting1:11:52 – Shangri-La1:13:29 – Working on a guidebook for Rakchham, when to go, and plans to go back1:16:04 – Getting the locals interested in climbing1:20:41 – Bernd’s projects in Rakchham, and the potential and rock types1:25:06 – Doing the FA of Shantaram in Norway1:34:05 – Patron question from Simon, and Bernd’s serious injury in 20161:39:41 – The healing power of the mind1:42:31 – Into the Sun, and Bernd’s headspace for highballs1:50:39 – 29 Dots (14m/45’ highball)1:58:45 – More about his recovery from his injury, and connecting of the East and the West2:03:53 – Bernd’s advice, and brushing2:07:47 – Bernd’s diet and lifestyle2:10:39 – Meditation2:14:59 – Bernd’s unique approach to warming up and finger training2:23:50 – Shake, shake the body2:25:31 – Being pulled into the present

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