The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Jesse Firestone is back on the podcast! We talked about his injury this spring and finding silver linings, why he focused more on weight training than climbing this summer, shifting his priorities to spending more time on projects, biggest lessons from the past three years of coaching, Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, how to become more flexible through climbing, why visualization is an excellent use of your time, and much more!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:53 – Jesse’s Winter and Spring season, his wrist injury, and his trip to Fontainebleau0:11:53 – Losing muscle, falling into our own pitfalls, and a sales pitch for having a coach0:15:45 – Stoic philosophy, finding the silver lining, and why Jesse climbed a lot less than usual over the summer0:18:49  – Being stubborn about rock climbing, and plans to balance that with more weight lifting0:20:32 – Why Jesse is moving toward less volume and more projecting0:25:31 – Work capacity0:29:48 – My summer trip, and what I would do the same vs differently to prepare next time0:34:22 – Chasing the highs, and the reset of a bad injury0:37:29 – Being content with not sending my project in Rocklands, and Jesse and I talk about struggling to find inspiration there0:43:53 – What I’ve realized about active rest days in Rocklands0:47:57 – Why Jesse didn’t set any goals on paper in 20230:49:57 – Thai0:51:25 – How Jesse’s coaching business has evolved, and how he uses Instagram0:56:03 – “A good coach knows when to be a window and when to be a mirror.”0:56:33 – Lessons from Jesse’s first few years of coaching1:05:23 – How coaching has led him to being a more compassionate person1:08:43 – Summary of coaching lessons1:09:33 – Intent vs. content of training1:12:55 – Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, writing a book, and how to improve flexibility through climbing1:22:10 – Having a positive attitude about your flexibility1:29:55 – 3 benefits of visualization for climbers1:39:53 – The nuts and bolts of visualization1:46:47 – Jesse puts his coach hat on and encourages me to climb faster1:51:47 – Visualization for onsighting, and Adam Ondra’s onsight of Just Do It1:54:20 – Wrap up

Josh Champion, MD and elite boulderer, discusses his journey of quitting climbing after sending V13 and finding a healthier relationship with the sport. Topics include intermittent fasting, burnout, motivation, comparison, filling the gap after quitting, unhealthy habits, seeking validation, finding other outlets for physical energy, pressure of sharing climbing experiences online, evolution of enjoyment and improvement in climbing, finding fulfillment, and challenges of building a climbing website.

Martin Keller, a professional climber and boulderer, discusses his send of Gateway V16/8C+, using video review to make breakthroughs, his simple training routine, and gaining 13 kgs to send his hardest boulder. They also talk about the importance of tracking climbing progress, building a solid base of climbing skills, the struggle and beauty of climbing, exploring challenging routes, and overcoming obstacles.

Lily Kral, owner of Boardworks in Bend, Oregon, talks about her childhood and her mother's struggle with addiction, exotic dancing her way through college, finding an identity as a strong climber, challenges of managing a climbing gym, and training for 5.14 at Smith Rock.

Joey Janssen and Rich Brunner, founders of Ocelot Grips, talk about starting a climbing hold company, the importance of small details, relationships with customers, the future of indoor climbing, and their experiences in underground hip-hop and cage fighting.

Stefanie Myr, head route setter at Climb Tacoma, discusses finding 'church' in the climbing community, being less certain and more curious, her polyamorous relationship, and doing what you can to make the world a little better.

Legendary climber Ashima Shiraishi, talented climber Kaddi Lehmann, skilled climber Mishka Ishi, and accomplished climber Oriane Bertone are the four women discussed in this podcast. The host recognizes his mistake about only one woman climbing V15, apologizes, and commits to better coverage of climbers' achievements.

Katie Lamb, the first woman to send a V16 boulder, discusses her groundbreaking ascent of Box Therapy V16. Topics include her projecting process, challenges faced, why she chose Box Therapy, the difference between joy and excitement, and her personal key to sending hard boulders.

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan’s back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan’s most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7Nuggets:0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway0:13:07 – Ethan’s trip recap, and remaining goals0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude0:28:02 – Patron Questions:0:28:02 – Shawn’s Question: Ethan’s back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands0:34:04 – Shawn’s Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength0:38:40 – Rajiv’s Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson’s repeat of Black Beard’s Tears, and Ethan’s FA in Greenland0:41:47 – Rajiv’s Question: China Beach in Rumney0:43:05 – Rajiv’s Question: Chris Linder’s route Window of Opportunity0:47:59 – Travis’ Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips0:56:40 – Colin’s Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA1:00:10 – Colin’s Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan’s thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA1:03:42 – Colin’s Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge1:09:58 – Colin’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on the bouldering near LA1:13:11 – Cody’s Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As1:21:26 – Daniel’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on bat hangs1:28:02 – Alan’s Question: Which climber’s superpowers we wish we had1:31:44 – Jacob’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won’t make you lose your edge1:39:02 – Wren’s Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road1:44:20 – Jacob’s Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”1:47:15 – Lars’ Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands1:51:07 – Connor’s Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders1:57:03 – Cooper’s Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop1:59:13 – Luke’s Question: Challenging your perceived limits2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up

In this conversation, Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, an expert boulderer and physiotherapy doctor from Australia, shares his journey as 'the dyno guy' in Rocklands. He discusses the exciting world of dyno climbing, the importance of leg strength for bouldering, and the nuances behind dyno grading. Together with co-host Ethan Pringle, they dive into how mindset impacts enjoyment in climbing, personal training strategies for improving dynamic moves, and the emotional aspects of the climbing experience, highlighting the balance of performance and joy.