The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Stefanie Myr, head route setter at Climb Tacoma, discusses finding 'church' in the climbing community, being less certain and more curious, her polyamorous relationship, and doing what you can to make the world a little better.

Legendary climber Ashima Shiraishi, talented climber Kaddi Lehmann, skilled climber Mishka Ishi, and accomplished climber Oriane Bertone are the four women discussed in this podcast. The host recognizes his mistake about only one woman climbing V15, apologizes, and commits to better coverage of climbers' achievements.

Katie Lamb, the first woman to send a V16 boulder, discusses her groundbreaking ascent of Box Therapy V16. Topics include her projecting process, challenges faced, why she chose Box Therapy, the difference between joy and excitement, and her personal key to sending hard boulders.

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan’s back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan’s most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7Nuggets:0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway0:13:07 – Ethan’s trip recap, and remaining goals0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude0:28:02 – Patron Questions:0:28:02 – Shawn’s Question: Ethan’s back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands0:34:04 – Shawn’s Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength0:38:40 – Rajiv’s Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson’s repeat of Black Beard’s Tears, and Ethan’s FA in Greenland0:41:47 – Rajiv’s Question: China Beach in Rumney0:43:05 – Rajiv’s Question: Chris Linder’s route Window of Opportunity0:47:59 – Travis’ Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips0:56:40 – Colin’s Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA1:00:10 – Colin’s Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan’s thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA1:03:42 – Colin’s Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge1:09:58 – Colin’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on the bouldering near LA1:13:11 – Cody’s Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As1:21:26 – Daniel’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on bat hangs1:28:02 – Alan’s Question: Which climber’s superpowers we wish we had1:31:44 – Jacob’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won’t make you lose your edge1:39:02 – Wren’s Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road1:44:20 – Jacob’s Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”1:47:15 – Lars’ Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands1:51:07 – Connor’s Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders1:57:03 – Cooper’s Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop1:59:13 – Luke’s Question: Challenging your perceived limits2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up

In this conversation, Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, an expert boulderer and physiotherapy doctor from Australia, shares his journey as 'the dyno guy' in Rocklands. He discusses the exciting world of dyno climbing, the importance of leg strength for bouldering, and the nuances behind dyno grading. Together with co-host Ethan Pringle, they dive into how mindset impacts enjoyment in climbing, personal training strategies for improving dynamic moves, and the emotional aspects of the climbing experience, highlighting the balance of performance and joy.

Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nic-rummelNuggets:0:06:39 – Test, test, testing…0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you’re given0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you’ve become0:23:29 – I’m on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic’s job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school0:36:14 – Nic’s longest boulder project vs. his math problem0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film1:02:13 – Ballet1:11:32 – Nic’s crimping journey1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics1:21:19 – Nic’s crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training1:24:32 – Nic’s key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally’s book Beastmaking1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time1:27:53 – Nic’s go-to hangboard protocols1:32:09 – Nic’s top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin1:34:15 – Nic’s thoughts on training micros1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual1:41:05 – Ethan’s feelings1:42:41 – Nic’s secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic’s home wall, and why he doesn’t like big holds on boards1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn’t recommend using T-nuts on a home wall2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul’s land, and renovating his trailer2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V132:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he’s changed over the years2:39:04 – Nic’s brother, his siblings’ climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather2:53:07 – Trap music2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic’s send of Airstar V132:58:41 – Wrap up

Elite boulderer and software engineer, Jenn DeBellis, shares her biggest lessons from gymnastics and athletics, trying V13s in Rocklands, embracing failure, and sustaining a full-time job on the road. They discuss warm-up routines, training cycles, and the importance of embracing different climbing styles. They also explore the challenges of living in a van and finding stability while constantly on the move.

Carlos Tkacz and Steph Letourneau discuss their diet habits, lessons from their trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, balancing carbon footprint, making most of a climbing trip to South Africa, and writing novels.

Guests Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler discuss their recent climbing trip to Rocklands, board training, favorite first ascents, and ultimate dream climbs. They also talk about their climbing achievements, experiences in different locations, and funny incidents. The speakers share stories of their early climbing experiences and discuss sponsorship opportunities in climbing. They highlight the benefits of therapy and discuss their use of BetterHelp. They also mention Rumple products and their experiences with various boulder problems. The chapter ends with a discussion about their lifetime climbing goals and inspirations.

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.Troy's Video:Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAustin's Previous Episode:EP 97: Austin HoytShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryceNuggets:0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.”0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ”1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip1:57:28 – Airstar getting action1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North2:01:00 – Near misses