The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
Jan 22, 2024
Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to discuss finger strength and injury prevention in climbing. They cover topics such as warm-up routines, breakfast choices, using mirrored boards, different finger training methods, evaluating training, building capacity, avoiding finger injuries, changing opinions, training routines in Waco, the effectiveness of the campus board, the upcoming PCC summit, physiological changes in climbing, finding balance in finger training, effective training methods, testing and tracking progress, and trying new exercises.
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Finger Strength Training Equivalence
- Active flexion and yielding isometric exercises on fingers produce similar strength benefits as hangboarding or lifting weight off the ground.
- The key difference is how the load feels and the potential injury risk, not the effectiveness of adaptation.
Prioritize Climbing Skills Over Boards
- Use minimal finger strength training; focus on skill and coordination on the climbing wall for best transfer.
- Avoid rigid fingerboard protocols as they may increase injury risk without added benefits.
Effective Finger Warm-Up Routine
- Warm up with finger active flexion, wrist wrench, and open hand pinch exercises before climbing.
- Keep warm-ups low volume but high recruitment to prepare fingers effectively and lower injury risk.