The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

Jan 22, 2024

Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to discuss finger strength and injury prevention in climbing. They cover topics such as warm-up routines, breakfast choices, using mirrored boards, different finger training methods, evaluating training, building capacity, avoiding finger injuries, changing opinions, training routines in Waco, the effectiveness of the campus board, the upcoming PCC summit, physiological changes in climbing, finding balance in finger training, effective training methods, testing and tracking progress, and trying new exercises.

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Breakfast choices and nutritional modifications

Using Mirrored Boards in Climbing

Understanding Finger Strength Training for Climbing

12:59 • 21min

Training Finger Strength and Evaluation Process

33:41 • 23min

Building Capacity and Training for Rock Climbing

Training Finger Strength for Climbing and Avoiding Injury

01:01:41 • 9min

The Importance of Changing Your Mind and Learning, and Sharing Climbing Experiences

01:10:22 • 2min

Training and Climbing Routine in Waco

01:12:01 • 18min

The Curiosity and Effectiveness of Campus Board Training for Climbing

01:30:02 • 19min

Performance Climbing Coach Summit (PCC)

01:48:42 • 6min

Physiological Changes and Injury Prevention

01:54:57 • 8min

Finding Balance in Finger Training

02:02:57 • 17min

Effective Training Methods for Climbing Performance

02:20:14 • 18min

Testing, tracking progress, and pacing in climbing

02:37:57 • 3min

Varying Your Setting and Trying New Exercises

02:41:11 • 3min