The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
Jan 22, 2024
Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to discuss finger strength and injury prevention in climbing. They cover topics such as warm-up routines, breakfast choices, using mirrored boards, different finger training methods, evaluating training, building capacity, avoiding finger injuries, changing opinions, training routines in Waco, the effectiveness of the campus board, the upcoming PCC summit, physiological changes in climbing, finding balance in finger training, effective training methods, testing and tracking progress, and trying new exercises.
02:44:26
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Quick takeaways
- A varied warm-up routine that targets different muscle groups and incorporates specific finger and hand training elements is essential for optimal climbing performance.
- Developing coordination and skill in applying force effectively on climbing holds is crucial for improving finger and hand strength.
Deep dives
The Warm-Up: A Comprehensive Approach to Finger and Hand Training
The warm-up consisted of a 20-minute circuit-style routine that targeted different muscle groups and prepared the body for climbing. This included exercises such as active flexion on an unlevel edge, pulling exercises like chin-ups, pushing exercises like push-ups, and mobility exercises for the lower body. The warm-up also incorporated specific finger and hand training elements, such as using the wrist wrench and talent grip to target different muscles in the hand. The warm-up emphasized recruitment and coordination in preparation for climbing and focused on loading as many muscle fibers as possible for optimal strength and performance.
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