The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
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Feb 26, 2024 Physiotherapist Paul Houghoughi shares tips on rehabbing finger injuries, wrist strengthening, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, and how to avoid common climbing injuries. Topics include lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, preventing injuries, grip gears, rehab techniques, and managing elbow pain. Paul emphasizes proper diagnosis, stretching, and strengthening exercises for climbers to stay injury-free.
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Paul's Climbing Origins
- Paul Houghoughi's climbing journey began with his grandfather, a skilled climber.
- His grandfather nearly achieved the first ascent of Senta and instilled a love for climbing in Paul.
Physiotherapy and Climbing
- Paul's interest in physiotherapy stemmed from his climbing experiences and anatomy knowledge.
- He initially prioritized climbing over his degree, even leaving an exam to go to Fontainebleau.
Lumbrical vs. Pulley Injuries
- Lumbrical injuries feel severe but often heal quickly with proper rehabilitation.
- A2 pulley or A2-A3 pulley injuries tend to be more complex and require a different approach.