The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!
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EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!
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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenzi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon
(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi
(00:05:37) – Early climbing
(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential
(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details
(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist
(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’
(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble
(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal
(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength
(00:29:17) – External pressure
(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C
(00:36:09) – Optimism
(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’
(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’
(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics
(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s
(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name
(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics
(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’
(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling
(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad
(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad
(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals
(01:17:31) – Future competition plans
(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other
(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects
(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project
(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions
(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b
(01:42:18) – Support from his dad
(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!