Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews Tom Randall! Tom is the founder of, as well as coach of Lattice Training, a comprehensive training platform for rock climbing. Watch as Tom pulls from his vast experiences as a high level climber and coach to discuss training methodology, injury prevention, and more! This episode covers: How Tom started and developed his training Developing Lattice Training  Tom's experiences with personal injury  Common injuries and mistakes Shoulder resiliency and management  Tom's go-to exercises for general resiliency and holistic approach Tom's general advice for climbing Outro Contact Info: IG: @tompaulrandall @latticetraining YT: @LatticeTraining Facebook: Lattice

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Kris Hampton on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on Kris's experience with shoulder and hamstring injuries, what he does to climb strong without getting hurt, common technique errors with climbing, and balancing technique drills with hard climbing. This episode covers: Shoulder injuries and climbing specific rehab Hamstring injuries when rock climbing What do you do to avoid injuries Common climbing errors related to performance How to combine training, techniques, and movement performance Closing thoughts Kris Hampton's Bio: Kris became a student of movement by watching gymnasts train at a facility near the neighborhood where he grew up. He saved his own money, took a class, and in a short time, was teaching tumbling classes and coaching men's gymnastics. In 1994, Kris found rock climbing, and after a decade as a trad climber, and a short break from climbing, discovered the joy of the gymnastic movement that is sport climbing and bouldering. To make up for the time away from the sport, at age 33, Kris began to get serious about training for climbing. At 40, he climbed his first 5.14, and at 44, his first V11, both of which are grades that seemed mythical when he first began climbing. He doesn't believe that the progression will end there. Seeing his success, Kris's friends asked for training plans. Then readers of the blog asked for training plans. Now he's written plans for thousands of climbers all over the world, and gets just as much satisfaction from their successes as he does his own. Website: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ Instagram: @powercompanyclimbing

Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews world class climbing coach, Dicki Korb -- trainer of Alex Megos and co-author of the best selling climbing book, Gimme Kraft! Watch as Dicki shares his thoughts and methodologies from his 37 years of climbing! This episode covers: Gimme Kraft! and sharing training methods Contemporary training Dicki's go to exercises, warm up tips, and movement practice/preparation  Challenges, risks, and considerations with modern competition climbing Finger training, campus boarding, and training errors  Changes in coaching since pandemic Dicki's general tips for resiliency Contact Info: webpage: https://cafekraft.de/de email: coaches@kraftfactory.de

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Tenaya athlete Felipe Camargo on all topics related to injuries. This interview was part of the “Behind the Send” campaign by Tenaya, sharing the stories of those who make the climbing life possible, from route developers, coaches, and physios to mountain guides, mentors, and advocates. This episode covers: Felipe’s history of finger injuries and prevention exercises Finger intrinsic strength  Finger warm-up strategies for climbing Tips and tricks to keep the fingers strong for climbing  Anatomy of the pulleys and pulley protection ring Rehabilitation exercises for pulley injuries The variation behind the side and length of climbers’ digits  Problem solving the mechanics of Felipe’s injuries related to gripping Felipe was born in Ribeiro Preto, Sao Paulo, Brazil, in 1991. He began climbing at the age of 10 in a small, local rock-gym, and only a few years later, at the age of 15, won his first Brazilian Championship, an achievement he repeated 5 times, as he did with the South American Championship. On rock, he established Brazil’s first V15 (8C) boulder problem and is the first South American climber to reach both 9a+ and 8C grades. Felipe has also become a top exponent of high grade multi-pitch climbs, as illustrated by his second ascent of ‘Corazón de Ensueño’ (250 metros, 8c) in China’s Gethu region. Website: https://blog.tenaya.net/en/2020/12/15...

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Eric Hörst on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep in to tips to reduce injuries, warm-up routines, shoulder stability training, posterior chain exercises, finger health and maintenance, wrist strength, and a few final thoughts on how to climb injury-free. This episode covers: General tips that help you lower injury risk  Describe your own personal climbing warm-up Describe the importance of training the shoulders Go-to Exercises for the shoulders  Developing the posterior chain Wrist stability for the fingers  Final words and last thoughts Erics Hörst's Bio: Eric Hörst (pronounced “Hurst”) is an internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and accomplished climber of 40 years. A self-professed “climber for life." Driven by his passion for adventure and challenge, he has established over 400 first ascents and he’s still pushing his personal climbing limits at age 53. Eric is also one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. TEric has written hundreds of magazine articles, appeared on numerous TV broadcasts, and his training techniques and photos have appeared in many publications including Rock & Ice, Climbing, Outside, DeadPoint, Men’s Health, Fortune, Men’s Journal, Muscle Media, Muscle & Fitness, Paddler, Urban Climber, Parents, Wall Street Journal, Experience Life, Outdoor 4X, and National Geographic Adventure, as well as European magazines such as Desnivel, Alpen, Climax, and Climber. Eric is also a published researcher and member of the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Eric produces a monthly Training For Climbing podcast and his training videos are regularly featured on EPIC-TV. Website: https://trainingforclimbing.com/ Instagram: @training4climbing

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Arc'Teryx athlete Jonathan Siegrist about his experience with injuring and rehabilitating his Grade III AC joint rock climbing. This interview occurred in 2020, 5 weeks after Jonathan had a grade III AC sprain. After diligent therapy and several months, Jonathan returned to full strength climbing. He continued to train and shortly after, he sent his most challenging project yet. This episode covers: Taping techniques for AC joint sprain Early range of motion Staying strong early on Blood flow restriction therapy  Early strength training Returning to early climbing  Late stage strengthening  Exercise demonstrations Jonathan Siegrist's Bio: Jonathan is a passionate professional climber and global traveler. He spends his years primarily on the road and overseas, constantly on a mission to develop new areas and pursue the challenge and beauty in hard rock climbing. Since he began his journey with climbing at age 18 he has step by step experimented and refined his methods of training for a variety of goals. His list of career highlights includes over 350 5.14s, 5.14 traditional routes, over a dozen 5.15s, boulder problems up to V14 and 5.14 big wall ascents. Website: http://www.jonathansiegrist.com/p/abo... Instagram: @jonathansiegrist

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Steve Bechtel on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on training mistakes that are common with climbers, training exercises, power exercises for climbing performance, climbing assessments, inside elbow pain, and how to warm up the hands and fingers for climbing. This episode covers: Mistakes and errors that climbers make with training What are your biases of types of exercises that climbers should use to train How important is lower body power for climbing Assessments typically performed on climbers  A discussion about Steve's medial epicondylitis  Some great analogies on analysis paralysis and overtraining Warming up the hands and fingers  Go-to exercises for climber's Steve Bechtel's Bio: Steve is the founder of Climb Strong. A climber for more than 30 years, Steve has established over 300 new routes across the globe, from grade VI big wall free climbs to 25-foot sport routes on his home crags near Lander, Wyoming. An exercise science graduate of the University of Wyoming, Steve has been studying and experimenting with climbing training methods since his teens. After spending a few years as a full-time climber, Steve opened Elemental Performance + Fitness in 2002. Elemental is a full-service gym in Lander, but was built around the training needs of high-level climbers. Website: https://www.climbstrong.com/ Instagram: @climbstrong

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Udo Neumann on all topics related to climbing and injuries! Climbing since 1982, Udo has written multiple books on rock climbing, and has served in roles as both German bouldering coach and advisor to various climbing federations. Take notes, because there is a wealth of information to be had from this climbing legend! This episode covers: Udo's career as a climber, researcher, coach, and federation member Udo's take on warm up routines The visual system in climbing Incorporating standard rehab exercises into intention based climbing  Udo's creative process for exercises and exposing climbers to novel movements  Udo's tips for staying resilient in climbing Udo Neumann Bio: Udo Neumann is one of the climbing world's most highly respected and sought after Biomechanics, Skill Acquisition, & Motor Control Experts. “Udo Neumann IS bouldering. If all things related to bouldering counted as first ascents—films, books, photography, mixed media—Udo Neumann might just be the most prolific boulderer in history. Since 1982, when he began climbing, Neumann has been cranking out media at a feverish pace, not just documenting the sport, but altering the very way we’ve understand the act of bouldering. Udo Neumann was there in the beginning. He co-authored the sports most successful training book, the now classic but still relevant Performance Rock Climbing (1993), which brought professional sportsscience theory into a sport where climbers were primarily pumping out on Bachar ladders and doing pull-ups on fingerboards. The book introduced climbers to training strategies we take for granted today.” Contact Information: https://udini.com/ Instagram: @_udini_

In this interview, The Climbing Doctor talks climbing movement with an expert on the subject, John Kettle! John is an experienced coach of over 20 years and is the author of "Rock Climbing Technique." Listen to this episode to learn about John's journey with injuries and how he applies movement to improve climbing performance. This episode covers: John Kettle's battle with finger injury and subsequent management John Kettle's approach to managing his shoulders Further injury history and management Relationship between climbing movement with performance and injury Changing climbing movement behaviors Leveraging tension for improved climbing movement John Kettle's key tips for improving performance John Kettle's Bio: During 20+ years of coaching I've helped thousands improve both in performance and enjoyment; from first trad leads to 8th grade redpoints and V11 boulder problems. ​My love of climbing has seen me gain extensive experience over four decades, including first ascents of trad, sport and ice routes, solo winter expeditions, and developing new bouldering venues. If there’s a summit, climb or new grade that inspires you I’ll match your enthusiasm and use my proven coaching approach to make it happen. I've published a bestselling book on climbing technique, and I deliver training for coaches internationally. I have also written coaching skills articles for UKClimbing, Training Beta and the Professional Mountaineer magazine. Listen to a podcast interview with me, about my own progression through the grades and my coaching philosophy. Where to Find John Kettle: website: johnkettle.com Instagram: @john_kettle_climbing email: ask@johnkettle.com Referenced Posts: Instagram Injury Post 1: https://www.instagram.com/p/CAXia_ijLFV/ Instagram Injury Post 2: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFjQg9EjtQ5/