The Climbing Doctor Podcast

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Udo Neumann on all topics related to climbing and injuries! Climbing since 1982, Udo has written multiple books on rock climbing, and has served in roles as both German bouldering coach and advisor to various climbing federations. Take notes, because there is a wealth of information to be had from this climbing legend! This episode covers: Udo's career as a climber, researcher, coach, and federation member Udo's take on warm up routines The visual system in climbing Incorporating standard rehab exercises into intention based climbing  Udo's creative process for exercises and exposing climbers to novel movements  Udo's tips for staying resilient in climbing Udo Neumann Bio: Udo Neumann is one of the climbing world's most highly respected and sought after Biomechanics, Skill Acquisition, & Motor Control Experts. “Udo Neumann IS bouldering. If all things related to bouldering counted as first ascents—films, books, photography, mixed media—Udo Neumann might just be the most prolific boulderer in history. Since 1982, when he began climbing, Neumann has been cranking out media at a feverish pace, not just documenting the sport, but altering the very way we’ve understand the act of bouldering. Udo Neumann was there in the beginning. He co-authored the sports most successful training book, the now classic but still relevant Performance Rock Climbing (1993), which brought professional sportsscience theory into a sport where climbers were primarily pumping out on Bachar ladders and doing pull-ups on fingerboards. The book introduced climbers to training strategies we take for granted today.” Contact Information: https://udini.com/ Instagram: @_udini_

In this interview, The Climbing Doctor talks climbing movement with an expert on the subject, John Kettle! John is an experienced coach of over 20 years and is the author of "Rock Climbing Technique." Listen to this episode to learn about John's journey with injuries and how he applies movement to improve climbing performance. This episode covers: John Kettle's battle with finger injury and subsequent management John Kettle's approach to managing his shoulders Further injury history and management Relationship between climbing movement with performance and injury Changing climbing movement behaviors Leveraging tension for improved climbing movement John Kettle's key tips for improving performance John Kettle's Bio: During 20+ years of coaching I've helped thousands improve both in performance and enjoyment; from first trad leads to 8th grade redpoints and V11 boulder problems. ​My love of climbing has seen me gain extensive experience over four decades, including first ascents of trad, sport and ice routes, solo winter expeditions, and developing new bouldering venues. If there’s a summit, climb or new grade that inspires you I’ll match your enthusiasm and use my proven coaching approach to make it happen. I've published a bestselling book on climbing technique, and I deliver training for coaches internationally. I have also written coaching skills articles for UKClimbing, Training Beta and the Professional Mountaineer magazine. Listen to a podcast interview with me, about my own progression through the grades and my coaching philosophy. Where to Find John Kettle: website: johnkettle.com Instagram: @john_kettle_climbing email: ask@johnkettle.com Referenced Posts: Instagram Injury Post 1: https://www.instagram.com/p/CAXia_ijLFV/ Instagram Injury Post 2: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFjQg9EjtQ5/