HUNGRY.

The Beautiful and Heartfelt Story of KOL Becoming the 17th Best Restaurant in the World | Chef Santiago Lastra

Nov 30, 2025
Santiago Lastra, founder of KOL and Fonda, is a culinary innovator blending Mexican philosophy with British ingredients. He shares his journey from a struggling teenager in Mexico to a renowned chef in London. Santiago discusses the artistry involved in running a restaurant, treating it like a performance. He dives into the intricacies of wine, cocktails, and how to foster creativity without pressure. With reflections on his emotional struggles and the importance of cross-training, he illustrates the balance of craftsmanship and play in achieving true originality.
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INSIGHT

Restaurant As Directed Performance

  • Running a fine dining restaurant is like directing a play where the chef must set the vision for every department.
  • Santiago Lastra argues directors must learn camera, sound, makeup and design to meaningfully lead a restaurant's experience.
ADVICE

Learn Your Weakest Discipline

  • Invest time to learn weak areas of your business rather than outsource blind spots.
  • Lastra studied wine, spirits and origins across France, Austria and Georgia to shape KOL's drink program.
INSIGHT

Quality Comes From Soil And Practice

  • Ingredient quality is shaped by growing practices and soil, not just provenance.
  • Lastra avoids sprayed imports and seeks biodynamic, low-intervention producers for authentic aroma and structure.
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