Kris Hampton, Founder of the Power Company, discusses the evolution of climbing training, the difference between coach and trainer roles, and the limits of human potential in climbing. Topics include balancing strength and skill development, managing training for busy schedules, and the psychological aspects of climbing performance.
Shift from excessive volume to high-quality training for climbing performance and injury prevention.
Importance of emotional aspect in climbing coaching for overcoming mental barriers and enhancing performance.
Evolution of climbing gym settings towards friendlier and diverse holds for varied climbing needs and reduced strain.
Deep dives
Importance of Rest and Quality over Quantity
Focusing on high-quality training over excessive volume like historical emphasis on pull-ups for climbing. The shift towards more concise and focused training sessions rather than excessive volume to prevent injuries and enhance climbing performance.
Emphasis on Emotional and Psychological Element in Coaching
Recognizing the significance of the emotional aspect in climbing coaching, exploring the psychology behind performance, attachment to climbs, and mental barriers. Highlighting the potential for growth and understanding in the emotional and mental dimensions of climbing.
Shift Towards Friendlier Gym Environments
Acknowledging the evolution of climbing gym settings to incorporate friendlier and diverse climbing holds, moving away from aggressive hold structures towards more versatile and ergonomic designs. Emphasizing the importance of varied gym environments to cater to different climbing needs and prevent excessive strain.
Differentiation Between Training and Coaching
Discussing the distinction between training and coaching in climbing, emphasizing the need to differentiate between physical training routines and personalized coaching approaches that focus on individual challenges, emotional barriers, and mental growth. Advocating for a more nuanced and personalized coaching perspective.
Exploration of Human Potential in Climbing
Delving into the vast growth potential in climbing coaching and training, focusing on the emotional and psychological components for enhancing performance. Reflecting on the continuous learning opportunities in understanding climbers' emotions, mental barriers, and personal growth within the sport.
When Kris Hampton launched the Power Company, training for climbing was in an awkward adolescence. Research and tactics were woefully behind adjacent sports like gymnastics. Gym sessions were a stop gap for time outside and training programs were the realm of competitive youth teams and a few hardened professionals. We dive into the evolution of training, the difference between a coach and a trainer, and how close we are to the limits of human possibility.