A life-changing quince, backyard butchery, and ethical food obsession
Oct 24, 2024
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Chef Ben Shewry, owner of the acclaimed Melbourne restaurant Attica, shares the journey that shaped his culinary passion. He reflects on his childhood in New Zealand, where food was a family affair, especially cooking with quinces. Ben delves into the challenges of restaurant ownership, advocating for equity in the workplace, and the emotional connections fostered through dining. He also discusses how he adapted his business during COVID, offering comfort through takeaway meals, and the importance of community and cultural heritage in food.
Ben Shewry's early experience with quinces ignited his lifelong passion for cooking and showcased the transformative power of food.
His commitment to employee well-being in the restaurant industry exemplifies a progressive shift towards healthier work-life balance and support.
Deep dives
The Magic of Cooking
At the age of five, a quince profoundly impacted Ben Shuri's life, introducing him to the magic of cooking and the transformative power of food. His mother taught him how to prepare quinces, which required patience and skill to turn a raw, unpalatable fruit into a delicious treat. This experience revealed to Ben the joy that cooking could bring, not just to himself but also to others, fostering a lifelong obsession with food. The kitchen became a place where food, people, and stories intertwined, laying the foundation for his career as a chef.
A Unique Culinary Journey
Ben Shuri's culinary journey led him from a New Zealand farmhouse to owning the renowned Melbourne restaurant Attica, where he creatively uses native Australian ingredients. His upbringing immersed him in a self-sufficient lifestyle that included foraging and hunting, shaping his culinary style and appreciation for fresh, local produce. As he transitioned into the restaurant world, he held onto these roots, seeking to innovate and honor the ingredients he worked with. This passion not only informed his cooking but also allowed him to redefine fine dining into what he called 'ambitious dining'.
Challenges of Restaurant Ownership
Becoming the owner of Attica six years into his role as a chef posed significant challenges for Ben, as he sought to create a fair and supportive work environment amidst the demanding nature of the restaurant industry. He aimed to redefine how restaurants operated, prioritizing employee well-being and a balanced work-life structure, while also confronting the long-standing culture of overwork and burnout in hospitality. His approach included empowering his staff to work shorter hours while maintaining quality, challenging traditional industry norms. This dedication to structural reform highlighted his commitment to nurturing both his team and the culinary experience offered at Attica.
Finding Hope and Connection
During the hardships of the COVID-19 pandemic, Ben found solace and inspiration through meaningful connections with people in his community, particularly with a mussel farmer who shared his life experiences. This encounter prompted Ben to reflect on his own struggles and ignited a desire to change his trajectory, emphasizing the importance of human connection in the food industry. It led to the creative pivot of selling takeaway lasagna, drawing on his childhood experiences to provide comfort to the community during uncertain times. This initiative not only enabled Attica to survive but also reinforced the idea that food can foster joy, connection, and resilience in the face of adversity.