493: Tom Colicchio on the Birth of Gramercy Tavern, Top Chef Favorites, Running For Congress
Nov 11, 2024
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Tom Colicchio, a culinary powerhouse known for Gramercy Tavern and his role as head judge on Top Chef, shares his journey through the world of cooking. He discusses the innovative spirit behind restaurant culture in NYC, reflects on his childhood memories that shaped his culinary path, and hints at a future in politics with thoughts on running for Congress. Tom also offers insights into the complexities of restaurant management, the impact of recent elections on the industry, and his favorite cooking moments, blending food and political perspectives.
Tom Colicchio's early culinary inspirations came from his father's cookbooks, shaping his cooking style and fostering his passion.
His approach to cooking emphasizes understanding techniques over strict adherence to recipes, encouraging creativity and enjoyment in the kitchen.
The founding of Gramercy Tavern with Danny Meyer marked a pivotal moment in Colicchio's career, blending quality dining with a welcoming atmosphere.
Deep dives
Frustrations with Shared Dining
The speaker expresses frustration with large shared platters when dining out with friends. They prefer enjoying individual dishes rather than having their meals placed in the center for everyone to share, which often results in their dish being a mess by the time it reaches them. The desire for personal ownership over their meal is emphasized, highlighting a longing for the ability to savor each bite on their own plate. This longing connects to a broader commentary on dining preferences and individual experiences in restaurants.
Tom Colicchio's Culinary Journey
Tom Colicchio's culinary career begins with a deep-seated interest in cooking fostered by his father's collection of cookbooks. He recalls the significant impact these books had on his cooking style, particularly the techniques and methods emphasized in 'La Technique.' Despite early struggles with ADHD affecting his ability to follow traditional recipes, his passion for cooking led him to pursue a restaurant career where he gained invaluable experience. The discussion expands to include his varied experiences running and working in different kitchens, revealing the evolution of his cooking philosophy.
Burnout and Relationship with Recipes
Colicchio shares his disdain for recipes, quipping that his first cookbook aimed to teach cooking without relying on them. His belief is that understanding cooking techniques is far more valuable than strict adherence to recipes. He underscores the importance of approach, knowledge of basic cooking skills, and the creative liberty that comes from mastering these techniques. This attitude makes cooking an enjoyable and improvisational endeavor rather than a rigid task.
The Transition to Executive Chef
Colicchio reflects on his experiences at different restaurants, particularly his time at 40 Main Street, where he began writing daily menus. He discusses the collaborative atmosphere of menu creation, where creative ideas were freely exchanged, leading to the crafting of dishes that pushed culinary boundaries. This experience played a crucial role in shaping his perspective on modern American cuisine and instilled a sense of confidence in his abilities as a chef. The combination of different influences and techniques shaped his trajectory toward establishing his culinary identity.
Founding Gramercy Tavern
The founding of Gramercy Tavern alongside Danny Meyer marked a significant moment in Colicchio's career, representing a convergence of vision and commitment to quality dining. During early conversations, they explored what was missing in the restaurant scene, ultimately aiming to create a place that combined exceptional food with a welcoming atmosphere. Colicchio highlights the importance of running a business efficiently while remaining focused on culinary creativity and mentorship of staff. The success of Gramercy Tavern positioned it as a noteworthy establishment in New York City’s dining landscape.
Reflections on Top Chef
Colicchio shares insights about his time on Top Chef, highlighting the positive relationships formed with fellow judges and contestants. He expresses genuine enthusiasm for mentoring emerging chefs and fostering their growth during the competition. While acknowledging some frustrations related to the controlled filming environment, he emphasizes that the experience ultimately provides invaluable lessons for participants. The authenticity of the show and its commitment to culinary excellence has contributed to its enduring popularity in the television landscape.
Tom Colicchio joined us in the studio for a really amazing conversation. Tom is a longtime chef and behind the restaurants Craft, Gramercy Tavern, and dozens more. He’s also the longtime head judge on the show Top Chef. Tom just released his memoir (with recipes), Why I Cook, and we get into how he’s long been at the heart of culinary innovation and policy. We talk about his early days cooking in New York City and how he came together with Danny Meyer and many others to invent a new style of restaurant cooking that is still influential today. We also discussed the recent election—and his thoughts on possibly running for US Congress.
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