

#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers
Feb 17, 2025
Tyler Nelson, founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, and Rob Hunter, head coach of the Irish Climbing Team, discuss their groundbreaking collaboration to enhance finger strength. At 48, Rob nearly doubled his finger strength with their innovative technique known as "squeezing the lemon." They emphasize the importance of focusing on muscular gains rather than just connective tissue and highlight how intention in training can lead to significant strength improvements. Dive into their insights on personalized training strategies and optimizing performance while minimizing injury risk!
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Rob's Finger Strength Gains
- Rob Hunter, despite 30+ years of training and V14 ascents, improved finger strength.
- This followed a specific training program designed by Tyler Nelson for a V14/15 project.
Finger Strength vs. Application
- Finger strength is important, but its application on the wall matters more.
- Factors like hip mobility and technique play crucial roles in climbing performance.
Intentional Finger Training
- Train finger strength with intention, focusing on the specific grip needed for your project.
- Use a curved edge that allows for a full crimp and engages all fingers.