Mastering Finger Strength for Climbing

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.

This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.

Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.

Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.

SHOW NOTES:

• Rob Hunter’s Instagram
• Tyler Nelson’s Instagram
• Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio
• Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance
• Tyler’s YouTube Channel
• Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics
• Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration
• Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”
• Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114

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