Expense Account Helen Rosner on the state of restaurant criticism.
Nov 17, 2025
Helen Rosner, a James Beard Award-winning critic from The New Yorker, dives into the vibrant world of restaurant criticism. She contrasts the culinary scenes of Chicago and New York, exploring the impact of costs on creativity. Helen shares her ADHD journey, discussing how Vyvanse transformed her life. The conversation also touches on the ethics of eating whole animals, social media's influence on criticism, and the shifting landscape of food celebrity, particularly for women. With insights on sandwiches and cooking improvisation, Helen's take is both humorous and thought-provoking.
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Cost Shapes Restaurant Creativity
- New York's high costs force restaurants to minimize risk, making adventurous cooking harder to sustain.
- Cities with lower barriers like Chicago allow more runway for creativity and experimentation.
How Vyvanse Changed Her Focus
- Helen Rosner learned about Vyvanse from a Kat Marnell blog and found it a better, slow-release ADHD medication for her.
- She warns of initial euphoria, dose tuning, and that higher doses made her angry, so she keeps a low dose.
Criticism Needs Research And Context
- Responsible criticism combines opinion with fact, analysis, reporting, and context rather than pure aesthetic judgment.
- Critics should ground evaluations in research and meaning, not only personal taste.
