326: Good Drinking with Jon Bonné, Alice Feiring, Jancis Robinson, Talia Baiocchi
Dec 16, 2023
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Erudite observer of food and culture trends, Jon Bonné, and celebrated wine writer, Alice Feiring, discuss the evolution of French wine, the mythic quality of Provence, and the future of wine. They also touch on the role of a managing editor at Rezi and the resurgence of salads as a popular dining option. The podcast covers various topics including writing motivations, childhood memories, and generational differences in the wine industry. They explore the chilling experience of visiting Auschwitz and Birkenau and delve into the joys and complexity of wine. The perception and popularity of natural wine, developing individual taste, and recent restaurant experiences in New York City are also discussed. Finally, the versatility of rabbit meat, the rise of home cocktail culture, and the mission of the publication 'Punch' are highlighted.
French wine has undergone significant changes in the past 25 years, reflecting transformations in styles, farming practices, and overall wine culture.
Curiosity is key to becoming a better wine drinker, with asking questions, exploring different styles, and understanding personal preferences being essential to the journey.
Flexibility is crucial when booking restaurant reservations, including being open to different times, sitting at the bar, and building a relationship with the restaurant to make the process easier.
Salad compositions are making a resurgence in modern dining, showcasing diverse flavors and culinary styles while signifying the changing landscape of contemporary cuisine.
Alice Firing's memoir explores the sensual pleasure and intellectual stimulation found in wine, intertwining history, geography, psychology, blind tastings, wine regions, and food pairing.
Janis Robinson offers her perspective on the natural wine movement, emphasizing transparency, minimal intervention, diverse flavors, and the importance of exploring and appreciating the world of wine.
Deep dives
The evolution of French wine and the cultural transformations in France
French wine has undergone significant changes in the past 25 years, with transformations in styles, farming practices, and overall wine culture. These changes have also been reflected in the evolving French society as a whole. The rise of natural wine, the focus on specific regions and terroirs, and the shift towards sustainability and transparency have all played a role in shaping the new French wine scene.
The importance of being a curious wine drinker
To become a better wine drinker, curiosity is key. Asking questions, exploring different styles and regions, and understanding personal preferences are all part of the journey. Being open-minded, flexible, and willing to try new things can enhance the wine drinking experience and lead to new discoveries.
How to navigate the challenge of booking restaurant reservations
Amidst the challenges of booking restaurant reservations, flexibility is crucial. Being open to different times, sitting at the bar, or even considering early dining can increase the chances of securing a reservation. Building a relationship with a restaurant and becoming a regular patron can also make the booking process easier.
The resurgence of salad compositions and their place in modern dining
Salad compositions have made a resurgence in modern dining and are being reimagined in various cuisines. From Korean-infused salads to Italian chopped salads, these dishes offer a fresh and vibrant element to the dining experience. Their reemergence signifies the changing landscape of contemporary dining and the increasing appreciation for diverse flavors and culinary styles.
Alice Firing's Memoir: An Exploration of Wine, Stories, and Identity
Alice Firing's memoir delves into her personal journey with wine, recounting how a specific bottle of red burgundy sparked her passion for the beverage. The memoir explores the intersection of wine's sensual pleasure and intellectual stimulation, highlighting the connection between history, geography, and psychology found in a glass of wine. Firing's experiences as a member of the Royal House of Wine Committee, advising the Queen's cellar, add another layer of intrigue to her story. The memoir also touches on the challenges of blind tastings, the importance of visiting wine regions firsthand, and the impact of food and wine pairings. Firing's writing invites readers into the world of wine and provides a glimpse into the fascinating characters and stories that shape the industry.
The Myth and Reality of Natural Wine: Janis Robinson's Insightful Observations
In addition to her memoir, Janis Robinson offers her perspective on the natural wine movement. She discusses the challenges of defining natural wine and criticizes the reduction of natural wine to a style rather than a reflection of meticulous viticulture and minimal intervention. Robinson emphasizes the importance of transparency in wine labeling and advocates for producers who add as little as possible to their wines. She also addresses the growing popularity and influence of the natural wine movement, noting the need for continued exploration and appreciation of the diverse flavors and characteristics found in the world of wine.
Janis Robinson's Role in the Royal House of Wine Committee
Janis Robinson's involvement in the Royal House of Wine Committee is highlighted in her memoir. She shares her experiences blind tasting wines for the Queen's cellar and selecting wines for high-profile events. Robinson discusses the challenges of choosing wines that appeal to large receptions while also considering factors such as region representation. She reflects on memorable occasions, including having lunch with the Queen, and discusses the importance of character and personality in the wine industry. Robinson's role in advising the Queen's cellar offers readers a unique glimpse into the world of wine at the highest levels.
The Exciting Evolution of Natural Wine
The natural wine movement has been gaining popularity over the years, emphasizing great farming practices and more reflective wines. However, with increasing commercialization, some wines are being marketed as natural when they may not meet the standards. The movement is also grappling with issues of class and access, which were originally rebelled against. Despite these challenges, there is still excitement around the growing selection and higher quality of natural wines.
The Complex Landscape of NA Drinks
The non-alcoholic (NA) drinks market is complex and rapidly evolving. There are various categories, such as NA beers, non-alcoholic spirits, functional beverages with adaptogens and CBD, and more. This has led to a wide range of options for consumers. However, the varying categories and purposes of NA drinks can make it difficult to navigate. Finding what is good and refining one's own taste, supported by knowledgeable retailers or trusted sources, can help in making better choices.
The Rise of Geekery in NA Cocktails
With the rise of non-alcoholic (NA) cocktails, there has been an increase in geekery and technique applied to their creation. Techniques traditionally used in cocktail making, such as clarification and layering flavors, are being utilized to create more complex NA cocktails. This has engaged a segment of cocktail enthusiasts who want to create high-concept and well-considered NA beverages that mimic the complexity of classic cocktails.
Italian Drinking Culture as a Magnum Opus
If there were no limitations, a comprehensive book on Italian drinking culture, including wine, beer, spirits, and cocktails, would be an exciting project. This magnum opus would delve into the intricacies of Italian drinking traditions, regional specialties, and the history behind Italian drinks. It would explore alpine drinking culture and include elements of skiing for an immersive experience.
Upcoming Projects: Alpine Drinking Culture and Beyond
While there are no immediate cookbook plans, exploring the rich traditions and drinking culture of the Italian alpine region is an intriguing concept. Beyond that, branching out into topics outside of food or drink, and undertaking projects that involve learning and exploring unknown subjects, has the potential to create exciting and fresh content.
On this episode we bring together some of the smartest and most opinionated voices in the world of drinks. We welcome Jon Bonné, Alice Feiring, Jancis Robinson, and Talia Baiocchi. Jon Bonné is an erudite observer of food and culture trends and the author of a monumental new book, the two-volume The New French Wine. Alice Feiring is a journalist and celebrated wine writer, and she’s also the author of many great wine books, including 2019’s Natural Wine for the People, a prophetic look at the natural wine movement that has swept the drinking world. Jancis Robinson is a legendary wine critic and the host of a pioneering wine show on the BBC. And, last but not least, Talia Baiocchi is the founding editor of PUNCH and the author of books about drink and food. Talia is one of our go-to resources for all things drinking. What a lineup! We hope you enjoy it.
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