Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Exploring the science behind skin quality and chalk use for optimal climbing grip. Factors like rock texture, weather conditions, and skin structure play a huge role. Learn about the importance of proper chalk usage and the evolution of climbing chalk products. Discover how different types of chalk and skincare routines can enhance climbing performance.

Experienced climbing coach Eric Hörst shares his winter training program for 2024, focusing on bouldery sequences and Kilter Boarding. He emphasizes willpower, gap analysis, and consistent aerobic energy system training. Eric also discusses his diet changes and importance of sleep habits for climbing performance.

Explore powerful strategies and concepts to elevate climbing and life performance. Learn about Mental Wings, human potential, and quality of thoughts. Discover 15 success strategies for uncommon success. Embrace positivity, take risks, and focus on high-value tasks. Prioritize values, set goals, and share experiences for growth.

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it! Lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Discover the 7 common training and performance mistakes among climbers, including not having a plan for each training session, making every workout a competition, training through injury, copying someone else's plan, focusing on strengths over weaknesses, and neglecting proper sleep and nutrition. Learn how to avoid these pitfalls and elevate your climbing game!

In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.  I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC. DAY 1  (abridged) 7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl  7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers. 9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA) 10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers 11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom. 13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps? 15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers 17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders) DAY 2  (abridged) 18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline 22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction 23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts 24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers  27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse DAY 3  (abridged) 30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. Get it here >> 31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance 32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness 32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. Listen to Episode #22 first >> 33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance.  36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).   Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 37:25 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 37:50 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year.  This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end! Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Get ready for the autumn climbing season with training tips. Key steps include setting specific goals, reducing strength training, and improving body composition. The podcast also discusses the importance of nutrition and offers a discount on climbing supplements.

For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day.  In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors you should consider in determining how often you should take a rest day from climbing. The optimal climbing-to-rest-day ratio can differ greatly depending on your climbing goals, training history, age, and recovery ability, among other things. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 1:30 - The value of climbing roadtrips 2:36 - Intro to optimizing your climbing day to rest day ratio while on a roadtrip. The 4 primary factors that come into play in getting it right. 6:12 - Factor #1: The length of your climbing trip. 13:28 - Factor #2: The type of climbing you're engaging in. 17:34 - Factor #3: Your age and recovery ability. 25:50 - Factor #4: The weather! 30:10 - Eric's wrap-up and closing comments. Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).  Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 30:50 - Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies. However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each.  RUNDOWN 0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode 1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing) 2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! 4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events. 10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types. >> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. Episode #21 is here >> 12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering. 16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing. >> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of running for climbers >>  21:24 - Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time. 23:50 - Summary points 25:00 -  Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).  Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 26:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.