Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!)

Feb 1, 2024

Experienced climbing coach Eric Hörst shares his winter training program for 2024, focusing on bouldery sequences and Kilter Boarding. He emphasizes willpower, gap analysis, and consistent aerobic energy system training. Eric also discusses his diet changes and importance of sleep habits for climbing performance.

01:20:45

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Episode guests

Eric Hörst

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Quick takeaways

Identify constraints & make targeted improvements for climbing gain.

Balancing strength & aerobic training enhances climbing performance.

Hydrolyzed collagen intake promotes joint functionality & muscle recovery.

Deep dives

Training for Climbing with a Transparent Look into Winter Goals

The podcast episode focuses on providing a transparent look into the host's training for climbing in the new year, emphasizing the importance of addressing specific constraints and making targeted improvements. The speaker, eager to enhance climbing performance despite aging, shares his approach to training interventions and lifestyle changes to level up his climbing in the upcoming season. This includes identifying limiting constraints, setting specific goals, and developing a comprehensive plan to bridge the gap between current abilities and desired climbing achievements.

Adjusting Diet to Combat Visceral Fat

01:30

Moderation is Key for Healthier Eating Habits

01:30

Optimizing Dietary Habits for Better Sleep

01:30

The Importance of Base Conditioning for Route Climbers

01:30

Introduction

3min

Bridging the Gap: Setting Goals and Training Strategies

20min

Mastering Kilterboarding Techniques for Climbing Strength

20min

Aerobic Fitness Training for Route Climbers

5min

Rehabilitation and Training Strategies for a Finger Pulley Injury

3min

Collagen Supplements and Dietary Habits

6min

Physique Reflections and Dietary Interventions for Climbing Performance

3min

Optimizing Diet and Recovery for Climbers

19min

Embracing Change for Climbing Performance

2min

Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever!

In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January.

One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of consistent aerobic energy system training, especially for route climbers, and he provides details on important changes he's made to both his daily diet and sleep habits.

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Intro to the most transparent TFC podcast ever!

3:10 - The need to perform an end-of-season "gap analysis". What needs to be done to reach big goals in 2024?

7:37 - The importance of willpower! And one of my favorite quotes: "The will to prepare for success is more important than the will of success."

10:18 - Eric details his personal gap analysis -- a very transparent examination of the things he feels are holding him back.

15:42 - Breakdown of the 4 Action Items in Eric's winter training program.

21:20 - Intro to Eric's winter training plan

22:17 - Action Item #1: Train to become a stronger, more powerful climber on bouldery sequences. Eric provides rich detail on how he's employed twice weekly Kilter Board training to achieve this goal.

29:20 - Eric takes you through his typical Kilter Board workout....from warm up to cool down.

40:00 - Eric shares some of his Kilterboard videos on Instagram: @Kilter_ehorst -- Follow Eric's FA boulders on the Kilter Board app via his username: ehorst

40:45 - Action Item #2: Maintain climbing-specific and generalized aerobic fitness through the winter training season. Lots of important details here for route climbers.

46:05 - Pro climber Amity Warme's incredible 2023 climbing season, finger injury, and rehab protocol and comeback story. Read a full article with details here >>

Read the latest research summaries of daily collagen use >>

51:30 - Action Item #3: Drop a few pounds of body fat...and get back to my "fighting weight" of previous years. Listen to Eric's major dietary changes.

1:08:35 - Action Item #4: Improve my sleep habits...to optimize recovery, health, and wellness. Learn about Eric's interventions and data gathering in this important area.

1:16:06 - Closing comments: Learn one of the key traits of top pro climbers that Eric works with or knows.

1:18:00 - Dear listener, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

Music by Misty Murphy

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing