Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

This episode is the first in a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric Hörst unpacks—in rich detail—how systems actually function, and he highlights how transformative climbers throughout history "shake up the box" with innovative, highly effective methods to achieve big goals and push the boundaries of our sport. Eric blends a concise climbing history lesson with an engineer-like breakdown of how intelligent systems operate. Part 2 of this series will deliver the actionable strategies you can use to build a personalized, high-performance training system for this winter…and for many seasons to come. This is an entertaining and thought-provoking episode—so lean in, listen closely, and get ready to feel inspired, challenged, and equipped to level-up your modus operandi at the crag, in the gym, at home, and in everything you do! RUNDOWN 0:15 – Eric's welcome 1:45 - Are you ready for "training season?" 3:15 - The powerful force of the compounding effect of year-over-year gains in strength and climbing ability! 🎧 Podcast Sponsors: La Sportiva | DMM | Friction Labs | PhysiVantage -- Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 6:00 – Learning to climb is simple; learning how to train effectively is complex! 10:50 – Employing a "systems" approach to your training and goal pursuit. 13:10 – The value of waking each morning with a mission. 18:55 – Eric shares some climbing history…and names 5 legendary, transformative climbers that influenced him and helped inspire this systems approach to training/climbing. 20:30 - #1 Warren Harding…applied a mission approach to big wall climbing…and took commitment and suffering to a new level. 22:35 - #2 John Gill – The father of modern bouldering and training for climbing. Read his biography, Masters of Rock (by Pat Ament). Gill was climbing V9 (in hiking boots) in 1959! 24:30 - #3 Wolfgang Gullich – Applied a systems approach to training and hard climbing…and opened up the world's first 5.14a, 5.14b, and 5.14d. Wolfgang helped invent the campus board, a climbing-specific form of plyometric training. 26:20 - #4 Todd Skinner – A pioneer of big wall free climbing, hard bouldering, and limit sport climbing, Todd employed a mission approach to climbing on a massive "all-in" and multi-year scale. 27:45 - #5 Lynn Hill – First female 5.14 ascent, World Cup Champion, and Free Ascent of The Nose of El Cap (1994). Lynn, like the other four legendary climbers, employed a systems approach to her climbing life. 30:00 – Two more important influences: my parents, Bob and Ethel Horst. My father, an engineer and inventor, helped shape my innate sense of needing to employ a systems approach to training/climbing. 31:05 – Side note about Jim Collins, a leading climber in the early1980s -- later a best-selling author and business consultant, Jim described my mega-goal concept as a "BHAG". Big Audacious Hairy Goal! 32:25– Conceptual model of a "System". 32:40 - Five elements of an open system: 1. Input, 2. Output, 3, Structure, 4. Transport, 5. Conversion. 35:30 – Making a system into an "Intelligent System" with four additional elements: 6. Goal, 7. Sensor, 8. Controller, 9. Disturbance. 41:55 – Applying an Intelligent System approach to your training and goal pursuit. If you're an advanced or elite climber, then employing a highly personalized system approach to training is essential for pursuing your genetic potential…and mega goals! 45:00 - Wrap up of Part 1 and a teaser for Part 2 coming in T4C Podcast #123! Follow Eric on Facebook and on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. 🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com PhysiVantage is available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop and in Mexico from PhysiVantage.mx SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy

Modern athletes know that strength and endurance alone aren't enough. The ability to generate power efficiently, resist injury, and recover quickly depends just as much on the health of connective tissues—tendons, ligaments, and the extracellular matrix (ECM)—as on muscle strength itself. Yet, these vital tissues have long been misunderstood as relatively static and untrainable. The latest research proves otherwise: tendons and ligaments are remarkably adaptive, capable of remodeling and strengthening in response to targeted loading and proper nutrition. The white paper presented in this podcast distills more than a decade of cutting-edge research into a clear, evidence-based framework for improving connective tissue health and performance. Drawing on the work of leading scientists and sports medicine experts, it explains how short bouts of specific mechanical loading—paired with precise nutritional strategies—stimulate collagen synthesis, enhance tendon stiffness, and accelerate recovery. The paper also details the biological mechanisms behind these adaptations, offering a practical roadmap for both elite and dedicated recreational climbers. Whether you're looking to climb harder, rehab a connective tissue injury, or simply increase your resilience so as to stay injury-free longer, this research-driven guide provides the tools to do it. Listeners (and readers) will learn how to structure brief daily tendon-training sessions, time nutrient intake to maximize collagen synthesis, and avoid common anti-adaptive mistakes that slow recovery. Backed by peer-reviewed science and real-world application, this paper redefines how athletes can train smarter—and perform stronger—through the science of connective tissue optimization. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Eric's welcome statement 0:30 - Overview of this podcast and the research White Paper. Download a PDF with supporting diagrams and research references here >> 🎧 Podcast Sponsors: La Sportiva | DMM | Friction Labs | PhysiVantage -- Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 4:20 - White Paper Introduction 8:40 - Tendon and Extracellular Matrix (ECM) Structure 14:23 - Connective Tissue Adaptations to Training 22:54 - Tendinopathy and Its Progression 32:45 - Training Interventions to Rehab Tendons and Increase Performance 40:55 - Nutritional Support for Rehab and Strengthening Tendons 45:35 - Summary Points and Training Tips 51:45 - Concluding thoughts 54:00 - Eric's closing comments and contact information Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing 🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com PhysiVantage is available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop and in Mexico from PhysiVantage.mx SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy

If you're a connoisseur of steep routes, this episode is for you! We've assembled a "Red River Pump" roundtable that reveals the training methods, tactics, and insider strategies for climbing your best on the overhanging walls of the Red — or any steep sport crag you love. Kris Hampton, Ryan Devlin, and Eric Hörst dive into Red-specific pre-trip and offseason training, mental strategies for embracing the pump, steep redpoint tactics, on-route resting, fueling and recovery, and how to "protect the send." This is a power-packed, actionable conversation you can apply today to climb stronger, last longer, and send harder on any endurance-style route. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Intro to T4C podcast 1:05 - Overview of the training and tactical topics covered in this episode. Listen to the full two-hour conversation of ALL things RRG at The Struggle Podcast >> 🎧 Podcast Sponsor: Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 4:20 - Introducing the Red River Pump Roundtable! 4:45 - [KH] General training prep in the weeks ahead of a trip to the RRG. 8:32 - [EH] The secret(s) to dominating on steep, pumpy routes. 10:30 - The importance of becoming a more aerobic-powered climber. 17:40 - [EH] Energy system training and the short- and long-term adaptations to climbing-specific aerobic training. And learn why doing a moderate amount of running can support your route-climbing performance. 21:30 - Learning to climb through the pump 25:10 - [KH] Tips for easing into an extended trip to the Red. 28:30 - [EH] Tactical tips for performing your best. 32:20 - [RD] Nutritional support of climbing performance and recovery between days of climbing. 34:00 - [EH] The benefits of SENDURE-X, a climber's pre-workout/performance drink that boosts circulation, endurance, and recovery ability. 36:08 - [RD] The value of the "low point" projecting tactic. 37:45 - [KH] "Protecting the send" 39:20 - [EH] Over-learning (practicing) the "anchor run" 41:00 - [RD] Low pointing defined. 42:10 - Final comments, and where to find more free training information. 43:00 - Wrap-Up and request to PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW! Pease share this podcast on your socials and/or with your friends! 🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Learn five powerful lessons for achieving big, difficult goals that I took away from watching Girl Climber -- the new film that chronicles Emily Harrington's incredible, multi-year journey to free-climb El Capitan's Golden Gate route in under 24 hours. For me, this isn't just a film about climbing—it's about resilience, will power, and the triumph of human spirit, Furthermore, it serves as a bold reminder of what it takes to stay committed to a dream in the face of fear, doubt, setbacks, and even failure. As Emily's journey shows, greatness isn't built on talent alone. It comes from disciplined training, uncommon courage and toughness, and the willingness to keep showing up for a goal that feels just out of reach. I had the chance to see Girl Climber on its IMAX theatrical release date, August 24th, and I'll tell you—it was excellent! Truly a must-see for anyone passionate about climbing…or simply fascinated by what it takes to push the human mind and body to their limits in pursuit of a big goal. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Intro to T4C podcast and my initial thoughts on the Girl Climber film 1:30 - If you missed it in IMAX theaters, don't worry. The film is now playing on the Indy Movie Theater network, with larger chain theaters scheduled to pick it up in the coming months. And starting this October, Girl Climber will be available online as a paid download from jolt.films. Watch trailer >> 2:00 - Intro to the 5 powerful lessons on display in Girl Climber. 2:35 - Emily's backstory and diverse climbing accomplishments 4:35 - 5 powerful lessons for pursing audacious goals 7:00 - Definition of "BHAG" (big hairy audacious goals), as popularized by Jim Collins 9:00 - Lesson #1: Commit for the Long Haul 11:45 - Lesson #2: Embrace the Bruising Process 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 17:20 - Lesson #3 - Persevere Through Adversity 19:15 - Lesson #4 - Build a Strong Support Team 22:07 - Lesson #5 - Believe in the Endgame 23:45 - Importance of surrounding yourself with "doers" (and avoiding critics and shit talkers) 25:40 - Final comments...PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! 27:24 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

After nine years as an NFL offensive lineman for the Falcons, Commanders, and Jets, Wes Schweitzer has traded 330-pound trench battles for crimps, slopers, and steep boulders! In this inspiring conversation, Wes shares how climbing started as elbow rehab modality, turned into a passion, and even improved his football performance. We dive into the parallels between elite football and high-level climbing, his challenges with a variety of football-related injuries, and his bold goal: to become the heaviest climber ever to send V10. Along the way, Wes reflects on career highlights—Super Bowl appearances, facing Aaron Donald, blocking for Matt Ryan and Aaron Rodgers—and his next chapter chasing higher Kilter Board grades and new outdoor climbing adventures. Podcast Rundown 2:28 – Welcome to Wes...the first American Football player to appear on the T4C podcast 3:45 - His first Autumn without football will be filled with climbing. 7:35 - How he discovered climbing...amidst a life filled with football 9:30 - Similarities between football and climbing 11:30 - Projecting "The Belly", a V5 at Catoctin Mountain Park 13:30 - What it's like (and what it takes) to play Offensive Line in the NFL 17:15 - How Wes dovetailed training for climbing while being starting Lineman in the NFL 20:40 - The physiological "balance" that climber offers a football player 21:30 - Insight into Wes' many football injuries 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 24:50 - Looking ahead to Wes' next career as a pro climber! 25:50 - Wes' short-term climbing goals...and Kilter Board focus 28:30 - Discussion of body weight and climbing...and how much weight Wes has lost...and plans to lose in the coming years 33:18 - Wes' long-term climbing goals: Becoming the heaviest person to boulder V10...and climb a big wall 36:10 - Rapid fire Q & A about his experiences as a 9-year NFL player Favorite moment Endzone spiking Best QB he's played with Best athlete he's ever seen Who's the all-time GOAT in football Wes' insider pick for winning the Super Bowl in the 2025 season 42:15 - Wes' upcoming trip to the Red River Gorge 43:30 Wrap-up on Wes' inspiring journey from the football field to the climbing walls 44:00 - Final comments...and mention of Eric's book Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance and Optimal Experience. PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! 45:35 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fear of falling, getting hurt, failing, looking foolish, or simply facing the unknown can feel torturous—and even paralyzing. To climb efficiently and confidently—and to pursue your peak performance—you must learn to assess and manage fear effectively. In this 90-minute episode, Coach Hörst delivers a tour de force of 18 fear management techniques designed to help you unlock a new level of mental mastery. These practical strategies will empower you to perform at your best on boulders, at the crag, and in everyday life. (Because effective fear management is just as vital for achieving great things off the rock as it is on it!) Podcast Rundown 0:25 – Introduction to the topic of fear management for climbers 3:25 – The 5 most common types of fear in climbing 4:10 – Reflection break: Pause the podcast and consider some of your recent climbing fears. Can you identify a few that were especially acute or held you back? Write them down, and take notes as you learn techniques for managing these fears. 5:50 – FEAR #1: Fear of Falling Learn 4 powerful techniques for handling falling-related fear 36:00 – FEAR #2: Fear of Dying or Getting Hurt Discover 6 essential methods for using this fear productively—and quashing it when it's unfounded 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: SENDURE-X: The Ultimate Pre-Workout and Performance drink mix for climbers! Boost your power-endurance, stamina, and recovery between hard boulders, redpoint goes, and hard training efforts. Add a scope to your water bottle...and feel the difference SENDURE-X makes! Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 1:03:40 – FEAR #3: Fear of Failure Ironically, fear of failure often results in failure itself. Learn 3 strategies to overcome it 1:11:28 – FEAR #4: Fear of Embarrassment and Criticism Explore 2 key strategies for dealing with these potentially debilitating fears 1:17:50 – FEAR #5: Fear of the Unknown Master 3 strategies for managing the intangible fear of uncertainty 1:27:37 – Recap of 11 powerful tips to assess and manage common climbing fears 1:33:07 - Critical take-home point: Love climbing unconditionally! 1:33:23 - Final comments...and mention of Eric's book Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance and Optimal Experience. 1:35:00 - PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! 1:36:18 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Coach Hörst shares 15 game-changing tips to elevate your climbing this season. Performance gains aren't made solely in the gym. As Coach Hörst explains, there's a lot you can do in-season—technically, tactically, and nutritionally—to level up your outdoor climbing. Apply just a few of these strategies today, and you might send your project sooner than expected. Put most or all into practice over the coming weeks, and you could unlock a whole new level of performance this season! RUNDOWN 0:30 – Introduction: Why these 15 tips matter for your in-season performance. 2:20 – Tip #1: Know the context of your current training and climbing—and act accordingly. 5:08 – Tip #2: Dial in your warm-up to match the demands of your project. (Not all warm-ups are created equal!) 8:40 – Tip #3: Time your sends by planning around temperature trends and sun exposure. 10:35 – Tip #4: Build confidence by climbing routes that match your natural style. 12:35 – Tip #5: Occasionally work "anti-style" routes to promote long-term growth and mastery. 15:35 – Tip #6: Always bring two pairs of shoes: a comfortable pair for warming up and a performance pair for sending. 18:20 – Tip #7: Prioritize movement efficiency when projecting. Climb smart with the strength and skills you have today. 24:15 – Tip #8: Focus on making a few high-quality efforts per session—not just maxing out your goes. 27:55 – Tip #9: Recover faster between attempts with active recovery techniques. 31:28 – Tip #10: Don't climb to exhaustion. End your session before mental and physical fatigue sabotages your efforts—and recovery. 📢 Commercial Break: Why top doctors and PTs recommend daily collagen supplementation for athletes. Use code PODCAST15 to save 15% at PhysiVantage.com 41:50 – Tip #11: Fuel appropriately for the day's climbing. Stable blood glucose = steady performance. 47:20 – Tip #12: Refuel quickly post-session: 20g protein + some carbs within 30 minutes. Follow up with a healthy meal within 2–3 hours. 50:32 – Tip #13: One beer max (zero is ideal) to avoid impairing recovery. 52:32 – Tip #14: Do some light stretching or foam rolling in the evening to aid recovery and sleep. 54:30 – Tip #15: Have a 20–40g protein shake about 30 minutes before bed to support overnight muscle repair and growth. 57:40 – BONUS TIP!: Learn how to outperform the masses by doing what most climbers won't. 1:01:57 – Wrap-up: Final thoughts, resources, and how to connect. Stay Connected with Coach Hörst and Training for Climbing 📬 Join the Newsletter: Get a monthly dose (or two) of exclusive training tips delivered straight to your inbox! Sign up at TrainingForClimbing.com—just enter your name and email in the popup. 📱 Follow Eric Online: Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Channel Facebook: Training For Climbing 🎧 Support the Podcast Sponsor: Fuel your performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition—formulated for climbers, trusted by pros. Use checkout code PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com to save 15% on full-priced items (North America only). 🌍 Outside North America? Order from EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com. 👟 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> 🙌 Thanks to our supporters: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, PhysiVantage Nutrition 🎵 Music by Misty Murphy 💬 Love the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a friend who climbs! © 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. All rights reserved.

What does it take to break through to the next climbing grade? With each new milestone, the challenge grows harder—but potentially more rewarding. In this special collaboration with The Struggle Podcast, I coach Ryan Devlin as he works to push past his current limit of 5.13a and lay the foundation for his next breakthrough in sport climbing. No matter your level, the tips and strategies we share in this episode can help guide your own climbing progression. A key focus of our conversation is the concept of building a solid "grade pyramid"—a proven approach for long-term advancement. This episode follows up on episodes #86, #91, #94, and #102, where I've been coaching Ryan on his journey toward his first-ever 5.13. You'll get an inside look at where he stands as of April 2025, and the specific training and climbing recommendations I've made for his upcoming summer season, all with an eye toward peaking in the prime conditions of Fall. Tune in to learn actionable strategies, exercises, and mindset shifts to support your next goal—whether that's your first 5.10 or your hardest send yet. This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability level, training background, or goals, listening to this episode will challenge your current approach and inspire you to reinvent your training for better results. In this hour-long lecture, Coach Hörst breaks down 10 common training mistakes. Chances are, one, two, or maybe even several of these missteps will hit close to home. But don't get discouraged—get psyched! Identifying these flaws empowers you to train smarter day in and day out, and to course-correct your long-term plan. That's the key to unlocking more effective training—and real gains on the rock! Start your journey toward better training and harder climbing today! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:53 - Eric introduces the powerful topic of correcting common training mistakes. Whether you're current in a serious training block or just doing weekday maintenance training as a tune-up for weekend sending, this is a must-listen episode. 1:50 - Common Mistake #1: Training without a well-designed and personalized plan for improvement. 5:20 - Mistake #2: Copying someone else's training program (aka "copy cat training") 9:30 - Mistake #3: Doing the exact same workout over and over without modification, progression, or deload periods. (aka "Groundhog Day" Training) 16:28 - Mistake #4: Doing little or no sub-maximal climbing (aka always projecting, limit climbing, and "competing with yourself"). Listen to the first in a series of five T4C podcasts on Energy System Training >> 25:15 - Mistake #5: Not doing any generalized aerobic training [Brief Commercial Break] - SAVE 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition >> (code: PODCAST15) 33:45 - Mistake #6: Doing little or no max-strength finger flexor training 40:37 - Mistake #7: Doing little or no antagonist and stabilizer muscle training 44:45 - Mistake #8: Getting drawn into a serious weight lifting, body building, or cross-fit style program 50:00 - Mistake #9: Ignoring -- and training through -- developing aches and pains Listen to T4C podcast #39 on the "Perfect Storm" for climbing injuries >> 59:00 - Mistake #10: Overeating (or undereating) and failing to provide your body with the energy and building blocks needed to gain strength, endurance, resilience, and recovery faster. 1:09:30 - Eric serves up his final thoughts on how you can use the informtion from this podcast to take your climbing to the next level! 1:10:30 - Eric invites you to sign up to his Training For Climbing Newsletter...for a monthly dose (or two) of training content to your inbox! Go to TrainingForClimbing.com and enter your name and email in the pop up box that appears. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing. If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode. Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and "sharpen the saw" each season. America's top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing. So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy? Listen in now to find out! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing... (Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts #76, #53, and #12 4:00 - What is this powerful strategy? 6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route. 13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. Save 15% with checkeout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing 16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy. 18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go! 20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on. 22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold. 23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go. 24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point! 25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send! 27:00 - What to do if you don't send? 29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing? 30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.