Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast #109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!)
The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?"
Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it!
THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.
Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in!
Here's a rundown of some key moments:
0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel.
2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing.
5:30 - Some interesting training history.
9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research.
10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance.
10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent.
12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach.
17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training.
20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport.
23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades!
24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers...
29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes.
32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes.
33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance.
36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen.
40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X.
44:00 - The best supplement for climbers?
45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation.
51:00 - Personalized nutrition
52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach.
54:50 - The power of Discipline.
58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals.
58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+?
59:50 - A few questions from listeners...
1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes?
1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same?
1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM)
1:08:45 - Nutrient timing.
1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments
1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel!
1:14:00 - Eric's final comments
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
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Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
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