Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast #112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham
Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement.
0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD.
2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory
3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance.
6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today.
7:35 - Tips for older climbers.
10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training.
11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts.
13:00 - Scheduling your workouts.
15:45 - Specificity of training.
17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset.
19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals.
21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting.
24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment.
27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes.
29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions.
30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks.
31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers.
33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting...
36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets.
38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers.
38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries...
40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals.
41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status.
42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training).
44:45 - Developing better recovery practices.
46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing.
46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential.
48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing!
50:35 - Wrap up
50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram
51:10 - Watch this interview on Eric's T4C YouTube channel. Subscribe!
51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts
51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out!
*** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***
Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.