Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best!

Aug 22, 2023

Get ready for the autumn climbing season with training tips. Key steps include setting specific goals, reducing strength training, and improving body composition. The podcast also discusses the importance of nutrition and offers a discount on climbing supplements.

24:57

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Quick takeaways

Set a specific goal for the autumn climbing season to stay motivated and focused on training.

Prioritize climbing over strength training and gradually increase climbing volume to improve performance in routes.

Deep dives

Setting Goals for the Autumn Season

The first tip is to determine your big goal for the autumn climbing season. Whether it's climbing at different areas or focusing on a specific project, having a clear goal will help you stay motivated and focused on your training.

Introduction

3min

Preparing for the Autumn Send Season: Evaluating and Making Changes for Optimal Performance

3min

Training Approach for a Challenging Climbing Project

12min

Preparing for the Autumn Send Season: Nutrition and Training Strategies

3min

Training and Nutrition for Optimal Performance

4min

For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending.

With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November.

Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND!

RUNDOWN

0:14 - Welcome message.

00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season!

2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins.

4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing there? What's your "super bowl"...that is, the most important project boulder or route?

8:42 - #2: Spend less time strength training and more time climbing! Over the coming weeks, taper off climbing-specific strength exercises and put down the heavy free weights until your next off-season.

12:25 - #3: Consider your body composition--is it currently optimal for climbing your best on steep boulders and long, overhanging routes? If not, what calorie-dense junk/pleasure foods can you reduce or eliminate until after send season is over? Consider running a few days per week to increase caloric expenditure and spin-up cardiovascular fitness (especially helpful for route climbers).

19:52 - Summary points

22:12 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

23:00 - LET'S GET THE SEND TRAIN ROLLING!

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Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by The Police (Remixes)

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