The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

Exploring the challenges and conservation efforts at Magic Wood, Thomas Saluz and James O'Neil discuss the preservation of the iconic bouldering destination. They talk about eroded footpaths, polished rocks, community involvement, and the importance of sustainable practices. The podcast delves into the history, evolution, stakeholder engagement, visitor management, and balancing climbing with conservation. They also share stories of climbing routes, challenges, triumphs, and express gratitude to Thomas for his custodianship.

The author of the Lake District (Aidan's home area) boulder guide, Greg Chapman joins us this week. We have a wide ranging discussion covering lots of things that relate to the writing of guidebooks and developing boulders. This episode is a little more esoteric than most as a lot of the conversations pertain to the Lake District but I think it mostly all carries over to any other boulder area as well so there's something for everyone I hope!Greg's lesser known Lake District gems that are worth seeking out:-Rolling Rock Wall (5+) Rolling Rock (page 464)Book of the Ages (6A) Coniston Copermines (page 212)Millenium Star (6C) Eskdale Granite (page 332)Scallop (7A) Armathwaite (page 545)The Giant Peach 7A+/B Horsehow Crags (page 299)Impailed (7B) Dove Crag (page 548)The Grinding Mind (7B+) Ennerdale (page 404)Diamond Reign (7B+) Eskdale Granite (page 318)Out of the Blue (7C+) St. Bees Head (page 418)Iron Hide (8A) St. Bees (page 461)If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

Aidan and I this week chatting about a bunch of stuff. I'm in Magic Wood and Aidan is in Finland so we chat about that. If we could build the best climber in the world using attributes from existing climbers, who would we use? If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to hear the extended edition of this podcast then do check out our Patreon page :)https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823 Support the show

Sébastien Berthe, a renowned climber, shares his thrilling climbing adventures like sailing to El Cap for the Dawn Wall attempt and free climbing the nose. He discusses challenging bouldering feats, eco-friendly travel choices, and the intersection of boat trips with climbing. The episode delves into intense climbing experiences, shoe maintenance dilemmas, and the fun of sailing with kids and pets.

Sam and Aidan discuss the hot topic of climbers' compensation, questioning if they are exploited or underpaid. They explore the challenges of balancing passion for climbing with financial stability, ethical considerations of fair pay, and the potential formation of a union among climbers for negotiation.

Renowned climber Ashima Shiraishi reflects on her early record-breaking climbing career, discussing the pressures of being labeled a prodigy, navigating media attention, and finding independence. She explores innovative approaches to engaging with climbing culture, from creating a kids' book to organizing community events. Ashima also delves into her unique climbing style, focusing on self-expression and artistic projects, while sharing insights on sponsorships and autonomy in the climbing world.

Emil Abrahamsson, a skilled climber, discusses his transition from competitions to YouTube, challenges in climbing, unique finger training protocols, optimal weight for performance, memorable ascents in tough conditions, grip strength competitions, balancing passion with commercial success in outdoor content creation, and the importance of authenticity in storytelling.

Experienced climber, Aidan, shares insights on sending projects, navigating post-project letdown, travel mishaps, climbing techniques, ethical dilemmas in climbing, evolution of climbing media, and rediscovering passion in climbing.

Bernd Zangerl, a bouldering legend, discusses his involvement in developing climbing areas like Ticino and Magic Wood. He shares his recent project in the Indian Himalayas, explores unique climbing experiences, discusses climbing destinations and experiences in Racham, and touches on the evolution of climbing landscapes and grading systems.

Nettie & Dave, The Climbing Backpackers, embark on a budget adventure climbing across Asia for £10 a day. They share tips on budgeting, unconventional climbing gear solutions, farm stays, financial sustainability for travel, and embracing uncertainty. The podcast explores budget-friendly climbing in non-Westernized places, navigating expensive locations like Tonsai, unique product sales, simplicity in travel joys, logistics of budget travel, and food exploration on a tight budget.