E118: Hoseok Lee - Moonboarding, The Korean climbing scene and rapid progression
Oct 9, 2024
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Hoseok Lee, a talented South Korean climber and moonboarding aficionado, shares his extraordinary journey from a late start to becoming a top athlete in the sport. He discusses the rapid growth of the climbing scene in Korea, challenges of mandatory military service, and the cultural dynamics of climbing gyms. Hoseok also delves into the evolution of moonboarding technology and its training benefits, while reflecting on his personal growth through mentorship and community support. His insights promise to inspire climbers at all levels!
Hoseok Lee's rapid ascent in climbing began at age 22, demonstrating that a late start can still lead to remarkable success.
His military service significantly impacted his training, highlighting the psychological challenges of a forced hiatus in a competitive sport.
The burgeoning South Korean climbing community reflects the influence of social media, with Moonboarding fostering camaraderie and engagement among climbers.
Deep dives
Hoseok Lee's Climbing Journey
Hoseok Lee started climbing relatively late at the age of 22, having discovered the sport during a language course in Austria. His rapid progression in climbing can be attributed to training with a more experienced climber, which served as a driving motivation for his own growth. Despite his impressive skills on the moon board and other climbing disciplines, he often emphasizes that his climbing journey wasn't always easy; he faced challenges like taking a two-year break during military service, which temporarily stalled his development. Lee's experience underscores the idea that a late start in the sport does not preclude achieving remarkable success.
The Impact of Military Service
Hoseok's mandatory military service significantly impacted his climbing, restricting his access to training and forcing a long break from the sport. During this period, while he was allowed limited training with a hangboard, he struggled with strength loss and felt demotivated as his peers continued to improve without him. After his service, it took him about a year and a half to regain his pre-service strength and even surpass it. This experience highlights the psychological toll of a forced hiatus in training, coupled with the fears of falling behind in a competitive environment.
Climbing Culture and Community
The climbing community in South Korea is growing rapidly, with climbing gyms emerging like Starbucks in major cities, largely inspired by the sport's rising popularity and the influence of climbers on social media. Hoseok has played a significant role in this landscape, gaining a following on platforms like Instagram, which has helped popularize moonboarding—a unique training style that emphasizes physicality. The camaraderie within Korean climbing gyms contrasts with the more subdued atmosphere in Japanese gyms, illuminating cultural differences regarding noise, encouragement, and participation. Lee believes that the rise of social media and community engagement through moonboarding has fostered a vibrant climbing culture in Korea.
Training Techniques and Moonboarding
Hoseok attributes much of his climbing success to the specific training techniques he employed, such as performing 100 pull-ups daily during his early climbing days. He emphasizes the importance of explosive power, range of motion, and intentionality in foot placements while climbing on the moon board. The moon board allows climbers to experience diverse problems set by others worldwide, which enriches their climbing capabilities through exposure to different styles and techniques. He asserts that those who excel on the moon board can develop skills that translate effectively to outdoor climbing, dispelling the myth that indoor training lacks relevance to real rock climbing.
Future Aspirations and Rock Climbing Trips
Looking forward, Hoseok expresses a keen desire to travel for climbing, with ambitions of visiting legendary areas like Rocklands and Magic Wood. He acknowledges the practical difficulties that arise from personal commitments and travel costs, but he remains optimistic about future climbing expeditions with his friends. Rocklands in South Africa particularly excites him due to its reputation for stunning rock formations and varied climbs. Hoseok dreams of tackling iconic problems like 'Off the Wagon,' reflecting his aspirations to push his limits in the context of both personal development and the climbing community.
Rising Popularity of Korean Climbers
Recent years have seen a surge in recognition for South Korean climbers on the global stage, partly due to their impressive performances in competitions and the influence of strong local climbing communities. While Hoseok highlights the importance of climbing gyms and indoor training in fostering talent, he notes that outdoor climbing opportunities remain limited in Korea, which can be a barrier to further growth. He emphasizes that despite the challenges, the rising number of new climbers and gyms signals a bright future for rock climbing in the country. Hoseok's personal journey within this booming culture makes him an influential figure, shaping the direction of climbing in South Korea.
Joining me this week, and sadly this week it is just me, is the Moonboarding legend Hoseok Lee. Known very well on instagram for his antics and incredible feats of strength, he's also a really nice guy with an interesting story. Having started relatively late and improved incredibly quickly he has established himself as one of the top Moonboarders and one of the best known Korean climbers. Join us for a general chat about Hoseok's climbing and a bit of Moonboard geekery!
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