E113: Michaela Kiersch - Climbing elite level boulders and routes alongside a 'proper job' and sending V14 with a broken finger
Sep 4, 2024
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Michaela Kiersch, an elite climber and occupational therapy doctoral student, shares her incredible journey in climbing. She talks about climbing V14 with a broken finger and her recent adventures in Rocklands. Michaela addresses the challenges of maintaining a 'proper job' while pursuing her passion. The conversation dives into the evolution of climbing culture, the unique struggles female climbers face, and the impact of social media. Additionally, she reflects on the balance between academics and climbing, emphasizing resilience in overcoming physical obstacles.
Michaela Kiersch balances elite-level climbing achievements, including V14 bouldering, with her academic pursuits in occupational therapy.
She advocates for greater recognition of women's accomplishments in climbing, addressing societal expectations and representation disparities.
Kiersch emphasizes the importance of community and collaboration in climbing training, enhancing athletes' skills and motivation through shared experiences.
Deep dives
Michaela Kirsch's Climbing Achievements
Michaela Kirsch is a prominent figure in rock climbing, recognized as the first woman to boulder at V14 and to climb a route graded 9a+. Her impressive feats include climbing routes such as the Rambler extension, Victim of Perfecter, and Dream Catcher, along with notable boulders like Mandala. Kirsch has been active in pushing boundaries alongside other climbers and continues to excel in both sport and bouldering. Her achievements not only highlight her personal dedication but also inspire many within the climbing community.
Balancing Climbing with Academic Pursuits
In addition to her climbing prowess, Kirsch has also completed a doctorate in occupational therapy, demonstrating her ability to balance rigorous academic pursuits with high-level athletic performance. She managed her time effectively, making sacrifices in her climbing schedule to prioritize her education without compromising her aspirations. Kirsch emphasizes that achieving a balance requires setting clear priorities and being adaptable about climbing commitments during crucial academic periods. This approach allowed her to thrive both academically and athletically.
Training Environment and Community Impact
Kirsch trains primarily in Salt Lake City, which she describes as a climbing hub where many athletes gather, fostering a supportive and competitive community. She appreciates the access to various climbing facilities, including competition walls and innovative training boards like the kilter board and MoonBoard, which she uses to enhance her skills. Regular training with other elite climbers not only improves her performance but also creates a collaborative environment where they share techniques and experiences. This communal aspect of climbing is vital for motivation and growth.
Philosophy on Injuries and Challenges
Michaela shares her perspective on injuries, having recently undergone surgery on her pinky finger before a climbing trip to Rocklands. Instead of allowing the injury to deter her, she opted to participate in climbing activities while managing her rehabilitation. Kirsch believes that maintaining a positive mindset is crucial during challenging times, using her experiences to inform her climbing strategy. She emphasizes the importance of adaptation and resilience, which contributes to her success both in recovery and climbing progression.
Community Dynamics in Climbing
Discussing the dynamics of the climbing community, Kirsch points out that women often face different challenges compared to their male counterparts, such as societal expectations and representation. She highlights that while there is significant media attention on women’s climbing achievements, there remains a disparity in recognition compared to men. Kirsch advocates for a more equitable celebration of female accomplishments in climbing, calling for a shift in how successes are recorded and shared. This discourse underlines the need for a continuous conversation about inclusivity in the climbing sphere.
Personal Growth and Future Aspirations
As a climber who is also a professional, Michaela's journey exemplifies how personal growth can be nurtured through both climbing and academia. Her aspirations include further developing her climbing skills and potentially tackling some of the world's hardest routes. Kirsch expresses a desire to balance her climbing trips with her professional commitments, planning to integrate more outdoor climbing into her schedule. This holistic approach to her passions showcases her determination to excel in multiple facets of life while pursuing her climbing goals.
It was a pleasure to be joined by Michaela Kiersch this week to talk about incredible achievements on rock, her recent trip to Rocklands without a full set of fingers, outing misogynistic comments on Instagram and so much more! There's some chat about retrospective grading, small gym communities and board climbing thrown in there as well.
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