The Glossy Beauty Podcast

In this episode of the Glossy Beauty Podcast, board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon Dr. Jane Yoo, and the Melanoma Research Foundation's director of advocacy, Kim Wezik, MPH, chat with Glossy podcast co-host Sara Spruch-Feiner about how the U.S. wound up so far behind the rest of the world when it comes to sunscreen, how the Melanoma Research Foundation is working with congress to try to make progress in the field, and what's at stake (20:00). But first, co-hosts Lexy Lebsack and Emily Jensen discuss some of the week’s biggest beauty news, including TSG Group's acquisition of Chriselle Lim's Phlur, which was relaunched by Ben Bennett's incubator, The Center, in 2022. They also discuss a recent controversy surrounding the introduction of an AI fragrance influencer "launched" by another incubator, Slate Brands. The influencer's profile has since been deleted. And finally, they discuss recent layoffs at Shiseido — the parent company of Drunk Elephant, Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, Nars, and several fragrance licenses including Tory Burch and Narciso Rodriguez — as well as at Walmart.

Elizabeth Milian, a brand protection attorney, dives into the intriguing world of beauty dupes—products inspired by high-end counterparts. She clarifies that while dupes can be legally gray, they spark a flurry of lawsuits aimed at protecting unique brand assets. Milian breaks down key legal battles, emphasizing the role of consumer confusion in these disputes. Beyond legalities, she touches on the exciting crossover between beauty brands and sports, highlighting partnerships like Maybelline and WWE as they reshape marketing strategies.

The female cochineal beetle may not be aware of it, but it owes a debt of gratitude to Joshua Britton. In February, Britton’s Debut Biotech unveiled a breakthrough set to disrupt how beauty products are formulated. Using biotechnology, the San Diego-based company created a vegan, bio-identical alternative to a common red cosmetics colorant traditionally harvested from the cochineal beetle. This beetle pigment can be found on ingredient labels as “carmine,” “cochineal extract,” “crimson lake,” “natural red 4” or “C.I. 75470.” A quick online search reveals carmine in products from Stila, Fenty Beauty, Maybelline, M.A.C., Chanel and dozens more brands. Britton has had a team of 10 researchers working on this for around four years. Debut has invested around $10 million in the project thus far, and the new, vegan pigment will soon be available for the industry at scale. Britton has a PHD in biochemistry and organic chemistry and launched Debut six years ago. Debut is backed by L’Oréal’s science-focused incubator arm Bold and was named a Time 100 2025 Most Influential Companies of the Year. The company also launched its first in-house skin-care brand, called Deinde, in 2024. Glossy awarded Britton a Glossy 50 award last year. Britton joins the Glossy Beauty Podcast to discuss the breakthrough and its impact, and provides a primer on the power of biotechnology in beauty today. But first, Lexy Lebsack is joined by senior reporter Emily Jensen to discuss the news of the week. This includes early results from Amazon Prime Days, which is on track to be the retailer’s largest annual sale yet. Jensen and Lebsack also discuss Sephora’s newest brand, Beauty of Joseon, which is known for its viral and hard-to-get sunscreens. Founder Sumin Lee joined the Glossy Beauty Podcast late last year to discuss its stunning growth in the U.S. market. The company hopes to sell $120 million in the U.S. market this year.

Siff Haider, co-founder of Arrae, dives into the fascinating world of wellness trends, sharing her passion for predicting the next big thing. She discusses how her community of 117,000 Instagram followers helps shape her brand's innovations, such as the new Clear Protein+, a refreshing blend of whey and electrolytes. Senior reporter Sara Spruch-Feiner joins the conversation, shedding light on major changes at Glossier and the growing focus on protein among women. Together, they explore the evolving landscape of health and wellness, highlighting unique challenges and community engagement.

Earlier this year, Sahajan founder Lisa Mattam shared insights into her clinical testing strategy with Glossy, including the difference between clinical testing and consumer perception testing; the cost, challenges and complications that can arise with this sort of investment; and how she uses the results to market her line.  In today’s podcast episode, she breaks down all of this in more detail, including the challenges, cost and unseen hurdles.  But first, Glossy Beauty Podcast host Lexy Lebsack is joined by senior reporter Emily Jensen to discuss the news of the week. This includes the latest C-suite shuffles at Byredo and Kering, plus analysis of L’Oréal Group’s big #JoinTheRefillMovement refillability campaign that kicked off this week. It marks L’Oréal Group’s first global multi-brand, multi-category, multi-channel campaign — but is it a worthwhile investment?

West Coast correspondent Lexy Lebsack is joined by senior reporter Emily Jensen to discuss this week’s news, starting with a buzzy new lawsuit that could impact the future of beauty dupes. They discuss Glow Recipe’s new lawsuit against MCo Beauty for allegedly copying one of its hero products, $36 Watermelon Glow Dew Drops, with MCo’s $11.99 Hydrate & Glow Ultra-Dew Serum. Jensen and Lebsack also discuss L'Oréal Group’s latest acquisition of the British skin-care brand Medik8. Announced this week, the conglomerate acquired a majority stake in the brand, which launched stateside in 2023, to bolster its luxury and dermatological beauty division. The line is omnichannel, doctor-founded and led, results-based, rooted in clinical science, and priced under its competitors — a cocktail of the top attributes many investment firms and conglomerates are looking for today. And finally, Drybar founder Alli Webb is back with a new hair brand (16:27) — but it’s not what you think. Glossy Pop senior reporter Sara Spruch-Feiner sat down with Webb to learn about the line’s origin story and launch.

On this week's episode of the Glossy Beauty podcast, Sara Spruch-Feiner, senior reporter at Glossy Pop, and Emily Jensen, Glossy senior beauty reporter, are joined by Gabi Barko, senior reporter at Glossy's sister publication Modern Retail, and Brit Starr, CMO at influencer marketing platform Creator IQ. Kicking off the episode, Jensen and Spruch-Feiner chat what's happening on TikTok in beauty this week, why Pride Month will look a little different this year, and why Huda Kattan is taking back full ownership of Huda Beauty. Later (16:18), Spruch-Feiner, Barkho and Starr discuss the biggest beauty news of the year, announced last Wednesday: E.l.f. Beauty is acquiring Rhode, the 3-year-old brand launched by Hailey Bieber. The acquisition was notable for numerous reasons, but some of the bold headlines include the fact that, though a Sephora launch is coming soon, it hasn't happened yet. Plus, the brand currently sells under ten SKUs, including its viral phone case. E.l.f., for its part, has had 25 quarters of consecutive net-sales and market-share growth. In addition to her roles as Chief Creative Officer and head of innovation at Rhode, Bieber will also serve as a strategic advisor to E.l.f. Beauty, across its portfolio, which includes E.l.f. Cosmetics and E.l.f. Skin, W3ll People, Keys Soulcare, and Naturium, the last of which it acquired in 2023.

Matthew Berkson and Marie du Petit Thouars, the visionary founders of Maison Louis Marie, dive into the evolution of their fragrance brand rooted in a family legacy. They discuss their commitment to sustainability and slow growth, avoiding excessive influencer marketing. The couple highlights the excitement of their new retail space where customers can fully explore their offerings. They also share insights on attracting younger audiences and the changing landscape of beauty shopping in a digital era, emphasizing the importance of personal recommendations and engaging in-store experiences.

The WNBA kicked off its new season last week with beauty brands lining up to gain access to the league’s growing cohort of fans.  In a gold rush that started around 2020, some of the industry’s top brands have entered into multi-year sponsorships with the league or its top players. The most recent, Fenty’s sponsorship of the New York Liberty, was announced earlier this month and kicked off on Saturday’s home game opener with several activations including a "Gloss Bomb glam cam" where fans show off their beauty look.  The NY Liberty, a top team in the league, has also received sponsorships from L’Oréal-owned brands Essie nail polish and NYX color cosmetics. Meanwhile, Amorepacific-owned Laneige became the Phoenix Mercury’s official sponsor last year, mass hair-care brand Odele Beauty sponsors the Minnesota Lynx, and Glossier has been a league sponsor since 2020.  What’s more, Youth To The People has partnered with the Seattle Storm, and L’Oréal-owned Urban Decay was the official L.A. Sparks sponsor for two seasons. Plus, the Chicago Sky has partnerships with Covergirl, Olay and hair-care band Jamaican Mango and Lime. But perhaps one of the biggest deals is Sephora’s sponsorship of the league’s newest team, San Francisco’s Golden State Valkyries, who will now play at the newly-renamed "Sephora Performance Center" in Oakland. And this is just a snapshot of the WNBA deals Glossy is tracking.  “There was limited broadcast for women's sports [a few years ago], and now we have record-breaking viewership, which has been just absolutely amazing,” said Jacki Gemelos, a former WNBA player and coach turned sports agent. “Major brands rarely built campaigns around female athletes. And now athletes like Caitlin Clark, Angel Reese, Alex Morgan and Simone Biles, just to name a few, are leading campaigns and not just being included.”  As previously reported by Glossy, attention from the beauty industry aligns with a sharp rise in WNBA audience attention. Viewership on ESPN was up 155% last season and, within this, viewership among people aged 18–34 rose by 164% and viewership among women increased by 165% year-over-year.  Glossy welcomed Gemelos to the podcast to discuss this change and provide context and advice for beauty execs looking to join in on the action. She provides context as to different types of deals, including the average costs and what makes a deal authentic. Gemelos is a lifelong basketball player who spent more than a decade playing professionally overseas and in the WNBA for the Chicago Sky and the Connecticut Sun. She was an assistant coach for the NY Liberty before joining Nike as an athlete community coordinator. Today, she’s an agent at prestigious boutique firm Disrupt the Game, where she oversees deals for a roster of top talent.  In today’s episode, Gemelos discusses everything beauty execs need to know about this cultural shift. But first, hosts Lexy Lebsack and Sara Spruch-Feiner discuss the top headlines of the week. This includes QVC’s foray into 24/7 social commerce selling through TikTok Shop, plus a bird’s eye view on how the beauty industry did in the first quarter of the year, according to a new report from Circana market research company. 

Despite a new, 90-day pause on President Trump’s sky-high tariffs on goods imported from China, near-shoring and multi-shoring are leading topics on the minds of business insiders now.  But the idea of near-shoring, or moving a supply chain closer to the brand’s home country, as well as multi-shoring, or diversifying your supply chain to additional regions, comes with many pros and cons.  On today’s episode of the Glossy Beauty Podcast, host Lexy Lebsack is joined by Melissa Daniels, senior reporter at Glossy’s sister publication Modern Retail and co-host of the Modern Retail Podcast, to unpack the nuances in supply chain pivots today (23:24).  “I'm hearing a lot of brands talk about this supply chain risk assessment that they're trying to make now,” Daniels said. “Even if it's not tariffs [prompting this], it might be something else: There was Covid that messed up supply chains, [and] certain weather events can have a huge impact on shipping and delivery, so if you are a company that has the resources to re-shore, you are looking into that much more seriously than you were a year ago.”  The two hosts share their latest reporting, including insights from brands actively looking to move their supply chains to places like Mexico, foreign manufacturers looking for U.S.-based brands to work with and the companies connecting them.  “If you're insulated by having products in multiple places, that prevents that really scary situation where you have no inventory [because of an unexpected global event],” Daniels said.  As previously reported by Glossy, many experts believe that “every purchase order is up for grabs” right now as brands rethink their suppliers. However, a future-proofed supply chain can take decades to build, so it’s important to think through changes.  “This is such a relational business,” Daniels said. “Brands have a really close relationship with their suppliers and their manufacturers; they've worked together for a very long time, in some cases, and there's trust there.” What’s more, there is a question over whether or not big supply chain shifts can be investigated fast enough, let alone implemented, to avoid tariffs this year. Ahead, Lebsack and Daniels discuss expected timelines, which can range from weeks to years, as well as the unexpected environmental and marketing benefits of near-shoring. But first, Lebsack is joined by co-host Sara Spruch-Feiner to unpack this week’s industry news.  This includes one of the biggest brand exits of the year: Announced Monday, consumer goods company Church & Dwight is set to acquire hand sanitizer company Touchland for $700 million in cash and stock, plus a potential 2025 earnout of over $100 million. The team also dives into a new study out of the U.K. from watchdog group Advertising Standards Authority that found around a third of influencers fail to disclose their ties to brands.  And finally, a look at Drunk Elephant’s sales tumble. Japanese beauty conglomerate Shiseido, which owns brands like Nars and Drunk Elephant, reported an 8.5% decline in sales on Monday. This is partially due to a 65% year-over-year drop in Drunk Elephant sales, the once golden child of the beauty industry.