Lattice Training Podcast

In this podcast Maddy talks to James Spragg, a cycling coach and physiologist, about energy systems. James talks through the different energy systems, the relationship between intensity and energy system contribution, takes a deep dive into the aerobic energy system and how to train it effectively, and talks about profiling our energy systems in order to inform training.Topics covered:1:30 - A bit about James and his journey in cycling, academia and coaching3:35 - James’ PhD7:30 - Overview of energy systems 13:06 - Energy systems are synergistic14:01 - The hyperbolic force-time relationship18:03 - The relationship between intensity and energy system contribution21: 40 - Cause of muscle fatigue27:45 - The aerobic system and sustainable exercise29:52 - The importance of capillarisation and training the aerobic system37:30 - Lactate. The myth demystified. 42:09 - Pump, RPE and the feeling associated with training the aerobic system in long duration and interval sessions46:00 - Why power endurance doesn’t maximise aerobic system development50:00 - The glycolytic system; discussion of adaptation pathways55:44 - Recovery from aerobic base sessions and frequency58:00 - Getting the aerobic base training in. Spinning plates in training.1:00:32 - What impacts rate of adaptation in aerobic training1:03:00 - Previous training history and getting back to a certain level faster1:06:00 - Different ways to get to the same goal. Exploring different approaches effectiveness through testing, intervention, retesting1:13:05 - Different training scenarios and approach people can take to address training for a sport project1:24:36 - Balancing strength and enduranceThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Maddy talked to Emily Elgar, who is a pelvic health physiotherapist based at Katie Bell Physio in Sheffield. They talk about topics relating to pregnancy and postpartum, such as pelvic health, delivery and recovery, and pelvic organ prolapse. Emily talks about her approach to pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, from her perspective as a life coach as well as for exercise. Emily also shared a number of great resources that support this conversation that can be found in the show notes. Some of the topics covered are;The changing landscape of pelvic physio in relation to pregnancy and postpartumBack and pelvic girdle pain and how we can manage itThe pelvic floor; finding it, training it and timeframesDelivery and initial recovery postpartumC-section recoveryPelvic organ prolapse. This is a massive area, with so much to delve into. If you are interested in strength training then check out our podcast with Joy Black, or our podcast with UMI-Health about the pelvic floor.Resources from Emily:Reframing return-to-sport postpartum: the 6 Rs frameworkhttps://bjsm.bmj.com/content/54/6/360https://www.acog.org/clinical/clinical-guidance/committee-opinion/articles/2020/04/physical-activity-and-exercise-during-pregnancy-and-the-postpartum-periodHome Page - Burrell EducationHome Page - Squeezy (squeezyapp.com)www.hlp-therapy.co.uk  (c-section) Its You Babe V2 Supporter | StressNoMore   (Prolapse support)Kegel Exerciser with App | Perifit - Perifit (United Kingdom) Elvie Trainer | Smart Pelvic Floor Exerciser and App | Elvie | ElvieThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

This episode is a BIG one! We’ve got on the show today, Eric Horst, one of the original founding fathers of modern training theory for climbing and a total legend of the climbing world in general…. This episode is going to be hardcore training and more training! In many ways, what we’ve tried to achieve at Lattice has been built upon the foundation of work, theory and practice of climbers like Eric who have made a significant contribution to the industry’s knowledge via books, podcasts, videos and many articles. As there’s an almost unlimited amount of items we’d like to cover in this interview, we’ve tried to distil down Eric’s knowledge, opinion and experience into a number of ‘big ticket’ items that relate to many of us, when it comes to climbing training and performance. Sit back, grab yourself a cup of tea and enjoy… Key topics in this episode:EnduranceStrengthPerformance Profiling FingerboardingSystem boardsFor anything related to PhysiVantage please check out Eric’s in depth website over at: https://physivantage.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

You DM'd us, and we have answered, so today we have the guy who gained everyone's attention in early 2021 with his infamous 30-day fingerboard routine. We cover a broad range of topics, which should answer all of the questions you sent to us via Instagram, and other social media!Emil is an incredibly experienced climber, representing Sweden in competitions, climbing outdoors, and of course sharing his journey through his Youtube channel. Recording his training, and sharing his big goals of sending "The Big Island", Emil really shows his versatility as a climber. So, don't expect this interview to be all about fingerboarding!Lastly, he has recently made the choice to move full time into a 'van-life' way of living, committing to full-time climbing and filmmaking. Other than his fingerboard experiment, we will also discuss how he balances indoors vs outdoor climbing and what he’s experienced during his transition to van living. How Emil's fingerboarding idea startedEmil's reaction to the feedback from the fingerboarding videoWill he repeat or change the fingerboarding procedure from the initial video?How this fingerboarding procedure affected his strengthHow he balances indoors with outdoorsHow Emil's height or weight affects this performanceWhere the focus for "The Big Island" came fromFootworkVan lifeInternal and external expectations with YouTubeSo far what have been the pros and cons of this changeWhere Emil sees himself in the near future The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Welcome to part 2 of this interview with the climbing legend Dave MacLeod. This week Lattice coach Maddy delved even deeper into Dave's climbing and training approach, by diving straight into chatting about his famous nutrition experiments and approaches to balancing a keto diet with his own training and climbing.   We also hear more about Dave's personal standpoints on nutrition and the mental aspects related to dieting, particularly in the climbing world.  As providers of nutrition services and information to the climbing community, we know all too well about the risks and the strong feelings that can be attached to dieting*, especially alongside high intensity training, so this is also covered in this interview.  Don't forget to catch up on Part 1, where Dave and Maddy discussed; 📌Dave's approach to training and climbing📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints 📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals 📌Stepping things up to 9a+ 🔥*Please note that nutrition is highly individual and if you are struggling with disordered eating you should seek the help of a qualified professional. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In the Lattice Training podcast today we have another guest from the arm lifting world whose long term track record of training, competing and record breaking accomplishments is rarely rivalled across the grip strength sports. It’s rare that we get to interview someone who’s really been focusing on something so specific to climbing performance - AKA grip strength - for over 20 yrs. Eric Roussin, is from Canada and has a long history of competitive arm wrestling, having started as a teenager in 1996 and has been competing in Grip Sports for just over 10 yrs. He won the Canadian overall National Title 5yrs in a row and also a gold medal in the World Arm Lifting Championships on the Rolling Thunder and has the world record on Napalms Nightmare and 2 arm thick bar lift.  Interestingly, Eric is a blend of competitor and historian so he’s got an incredible knowledge of what’s developed over time and an understanding of training and performance methodology, which at Lattice, we’re always interested to learn more about! Check out in the show notes at the bottom, some really useful links provided by Eric, who kindly provided us all with some signposting to learn more on this front. In today’s episode we covered:What got Eric into arm wrestling originally and his formative years of training.What he thinks about grip or hand strength in arm lifting and the repercussions for training methodology or approach. His thoughts on the differences between arm lifting and arm wrestling.How he trains for grip lifting, rather than grip pulling or hanging.Whether he does any cross-training.How important he thinks strength in the entire kinetic chain is. Are there any common “weak” links he sees?What does the grip sports community think of fingerboarding.What are the King Kong Grip Challenges. David Horne - site: http://www.davidhorne-gripmaster.com/index.htmlDavid Horne Basic training routine video: https://youtu.be/FGuVJAj96SE Grip Board (the world’s most popular grip strength related forum): www.gripboard.com (event King Kong details can be found in the Grip Contests section)Popular facebook page for all things grip: https://www.facebook.com/groups/330749460395996 Eric’s websites: www.canadagripsport.com & www.thearmwrestlingarchives.comThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Settle down and get comfy because Dave MacLeod is in the house and you are going to want to hear this one! We were recently lucky enough to have Dave MacLeod come down to the Lattice Training HQ and dive into all things climbing and training!In this podcast Dave and Lattice coach Maddy Cope sat down and had a good old chat! Tune in to find out more about;📌Dave's approach to training and climbing📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints 📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals 📌Stepping things up to 9a+ This interview covers many things in between these topics, so be sure to tune in for so much more - plus we've also split into two parts, so keep an eye out next week for part 2. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today we have a true legend of finger strength - the one and only Yves Gravelle. He has some of the strongest fingers in the world, pound for pound and has demonstrated this in both the climbing and arm lifting world, whilst also holding down a full time job and the added role of parenting on top of that. In terms of his climbing, Yves is an International comp athlete, having represented Canada for a number of years, he’s bouldered V15 and repeated and established multiple problems in the double digit range. For Arm Lifting, he is 3 x APL World Champ, the lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell and has a PB of 105kg on the Rolling Thunder.If you’re someone who’s interested in the opinion, practices and methods of an athlete at the top 0.0001% of their game, when it comes to building strong fingers, then listen in hard!In this episode we cover the following topics:Yves's classic feats of strength.His early climbing years.The tools in the last 20 yrs that he's felt were most effective.How often he trains grip strength. How he balances that with normal climbing.What has been the role of arm lifting and when he got into it.Are arm lifters doing anything different to climbers?Hang vs lift tools for finger strength training.How he 'transfers' his training strength across into climbing.His balance of low intensity and high volume training.How he trains with limited time and resources. His tips for climbers getting into their first season of arm lift training.Yves' Sponsors: Bloc shop, Kailas, Tembo, Digit Climbing, Xcult USA, Coyote rock gymHis YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/yvesgravelle/videosHis Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle/?hl=enI’m from Ottawa, CanadaBeen climbing for 22 years. Ex Canadian National Bouldering team member. 7-8 time???3 x arm lifting World Champion (APL federation)8C boulderMultiple World records and class world records order  in the sport of Armlifting. Feats Highlight - lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell- 6mm one arm pull-up and deadhang- lattice test edge + 32kg- 105kg on the rolling thunder- 1-5-9 with construction gloves The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tom Randall is back with another solo podcast session, following on from the recent "Common Mistake in Endurance Training" that was very popular. Like the previous format, he explores the big issues that climbers will typically have when training or preparing their power endurance.In part 1, he breaks down the critical factor of 'specificity' and why you need to address it on the three fronts of technical, psychological and physical preparation. Ignoring, or wrongly addressing almost any of these elements will significantly impact both the effect of your training and the performance outcomes. Get them right though, as you're talking about huge steps towards success! Technical:1. Rock types and associated movement patterns.2. Specific move types and efficiency within them.3. Learning how to climb fast AND slow at your project/goal gradePsychological:1. Accessing your 'try hard' zone with correct focus and frequency2. Learning to relax to the demands of the goal and not 'wasting' energy. 3. Training to rest appropriate for your project. 4. Chalking up ratios5. Terrain recognition and environmental stress/familiarity6. Fears of heights, exposure and fallingPhysical:1. Pacing for contraction and relaxation ratios.2. Hold size and types relative to muscle activation and soft tissue demands.3. Specificity of project demands on ancillary muscle groups such as core, back and legs.4. Skin and pain conditioning5. Respecting the specificity of volume, intensity and 'section' interval frequency when trainingThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today’s guest is one of the best climbers in the world right now. He’s redpointed 3 9b+’s and 7 9b’s, and won multiple IFSC world cups. Yes, it is the one and only Stefano Ghisolfi! The journey that this athlete has taken in the sport is a remarkable one, not simply because his incredible grades, but because he has so many relatable actions that many of us can also deploy in our own climbing pathway. Sure, we may not all reach 9b+ or Olympic selections in our life, but at our own personal level there are strategies that pay off ... big time. Those key strategies discussed come down to:1. Playing to your strengths and understanding how you can work on your long term (changeable) weaknesses.2. Building a solid grade pyramid of performance, experience and skill. 3. Appropriate methods for making a change in performance metrics. What strategies actually work for the thing you're trying to alter. 4. Working on your fear and mindset in a performance setting.Around these topics, we discussed - amongst other things:His first competition at 14 and how only 3 years later he’d got a podium and also competed in the Senior world champs and placed 10th in combined. What his early journey in climbing looked like. How quickly did he go through the grades?His first 9b Lapsus. His views on repeating some of the world’s hardest routes like Change, Bibliographie, Perfecto Mundo. How important is this process/goal?His repeat of Bibliography and proposed 9b+ grade vs 9c.  How much bouldering does he do compared to sport climbing? Does it change at different times of the year?How does he fit in fingerboard work and other forms of more 'basic' S&C?His fear of heights, falling and exposure. How does he identify what he wants to work on each season?The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.