The Testpiece Podcast

Tyler Nelson, founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, and Rob Hunter, head coach of the Irish Climbing Team, discuss their groundbreaking collaboration to enhance finger strength. At 48, Rob nearly doubled his finger strength with their innovative technique known as "squeezing the lemon." They emphasize the importance of focusing on muscular gains rather than just connective tissue and highlight how intention in training can lead to significant strength improvements. Dive into their insights on personalized training strategies and optimizing performance while minimizing injury risk!

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future.Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #140 for context!SHOW NOTES:Austin Hoyt’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ClimbveezAustin Hoyt’s Testpiece Episode #140: https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHkJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately.Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move.Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast.SHOW NOTES:Austin Hoyt’s InstagramAustin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube ChannelIssac Leff’s YouTube ChannelBeta labs (Austin’s Company)Mad RockDecoy HoldsMimic HoldsTestpiece Podcasts Mentioned:Noah and Benn WheelerAdam ShaharRoss FulkersonJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”.Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of  Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells.This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can’t quite capture.SHOW NOTES:“Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”Filmed and Edited by Raul OnyettRoss Fulkerson’s InstagramRoss Fulkerson’s YouTubeRoss’ Previous Testpiece Episodes:Podcast #3Podcast #4 Podcast #124 Podcast #133Mad RockJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #137 for context!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley’s InstagramKai Whaley’s YouTubeKai Whaley’s Episode, #137Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai."Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent!Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the title for V17.Kai’s YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley’s InstagramKai Whaley’s YouTubeBoard Climb’s mentioned in the episode:“Black Widow”, Moonboard 2024“Extendo Clip”, TB2 V13 @ 45“Menacing Creation”, TB2Brian Squire’s Board AccountVideos mentioned in the podcast:Off LeashA Little LifeSqu(h)amishTestpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode:Adam Shahar’s episodeMartin Keller’s episodeDavid Fitzgerald’s episode #1 and #2Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Tim Kang is a professional climber and highballer known for his World Cup competitions and the film "Focus." In this conversation, he highlights the astounding progress of younger climbers who tackle V17 as a norm. Tim and the host debate the nuances of climbing grades, questioning whether 15d is truly harder than V17. He also shares his thoughts on the best highball in the world and touches on his upcoming highball project. Expect hot takes and a lively discussion about the dynamic evolution of bouldering!

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16), and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it.We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #134 for context!SHOW NOTES:Zach Galla’s InstagramThe Process, V16, SA by Galla on MellowPretty Tall on MellowPrevious Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77Previous Zach Galla Tespitece Episode #134Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here.Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach’s second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16, one of the proudest and most beautiful V16’s in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA’d it. This could have been a podcast in itself but Zach did many more proud V15’s all over the world and FA’d a new V16 in LCC called "Sosa"!Zach also recently partnered with Black Diamond and joined a team called “BD Hex”. Hear more about the core climbing companies that are quickly growing and supporting the sport we all love.SHOW NOTES:Zach Galla’s InstagramPrevious Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77The Process, V16, SA by Galla on MellowPretty Tall on MellowBest Believe It on TensionLost Tapes on MellowUnstoppable by Chief KeefLove Sosa by Chief KeefConfluence on MellowDelayMyBelay on InstagramAustin Ernst on InstagramZach Galla’s Board AccountBrain Squire’s Board AccountBD Hex TeamBD Hex InstagramToinon BeigneNoah KeithleySean FaulknerFinn StackBobby VannoyAntigravNoiseJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top!We’ve got Ross Fulkerson, Marco Giacomangeli, and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley. These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that involved tons of amazing deep water soloing and some world class sport climbing as well.Each of these athletes are  active coaches or professional climbers. Hear from them about what they learned on the trip and how coaches coach each other. They also talk about how to use fear to your advantage which is absolutely crucial when you push your limits.SHOW NOTES:Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram and YouTube ChannelMarco Giacomangeli’s InstagramBryce Belshin’s InstagramMind To MotionAl Rangel Testpiece PodcastsEpisode #120Episode #7Previous Ross Fulkerson Testpiece EpisodesEpisode #124 Episode #4 Episode #3Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE